DJ194950

Way bad, sorry! If George Ashe cannot help i don't know who can, even for locating parts. If this can be of help, a good friend has a chevy OD transmission (mid 50-up) just been sitting outside but complete that i did plan to try to get for next to nothing just for the govenor and solenoid. I put a call to him and awaiting call back about getting it. If any of the internal parts of the chevy trans can be used (per George A.) Let me know, Good luck, Doug

Joe, since you took so many pics as you worked, did you get some pics of the rubber mounts at the cowl (foward most body mount) ?? My stalled 50 wagon seems to have had none there and looked at my 4dr. that appears to have none or something very thin. My friends 49 and his 50 bus. coupes both to have nothing? also. With the rest looking just like yours with the remost being very thin. I replaced JUST the remost on my 50 4dr. and they appeared to be just like the wagon rearward mounts thinner and square (not round). For the 4 dr. i just used some used ones that i saved from a 51 4dr. that donated it's drivers side panel behind the rear door and the area next to the trunk, including the wheel well and part of the frame that was damaged. Back when (7-8 yrs. ago) when looking for body mounts for the wagon steele had none listed, but did have some mopar truck mounts that fit. They looked much closer to the original dimensions than the one you got from Roberts. These should work just fine, just may have to shim some to get the door openings correct!! These 49 & up ply.'s are very lightweight thin metal bodys as you now know too well, and they flex easier! I don't know how heavy the pre 49 bodys are but i had a 54 chevy that was much heavier and thicker metal. Keep up the great work! With your recent weather i'm impressed with your contined work! Best to ya, Doug

May i suggest to look at: 50plymouth.com A member of the forum pete (blueskies) created a site that details his rebuild of a 50 ply. 4 dr. and in the transmission section he details his building of a r-10 OD trans and quite a few pics of parts etc. along with his problem areas. Keep on working on fixing the r-10 trans, there are great additions to our mopars!! Best to ya, Doug

Mopar r-10,s have two extra bolts that hold the OD tail housing that have to be removed to separate main case from the OD tailshaft. They are located on the Inside on the (adaptor section main/OD case) To separate the cases on mopar r-10, (does not show these in any repair manuel that i've been able to find). You have to remove the mainshaft out of the main trans box with the overdrive, which involves much more trouble. I had to talk to an retired old trans mechanic to find this out! PM as i MAY have pics somewhere on this computer after the old one crashed and i lost a lot of my pics. Stupid, i had not backed up Ever!

I concur with previous post about the front"clips" they are for wiring for door post light switch to the rear interior light when stock only had one switch for the pass. side at least for 50 models! Many it seems where added on to to include a second switch "idenical" switch on drivers side that took place of the stock hole for same, covered by the stock ID plate. If i can locate the pic, factory access. under dash lighting added a second switch on driver side, Instructions said to remove the factory ID plate that covered this hole on driver side and redrill holes to remount the ID plate lower. Any competetent mechanic could just order a second switch to make rear interior light up when either door is opened as i did, just because i never get in from the pass. side! These were all tied into the rear interior light or only wired to turn on access. underdash light only when driver door was opened, or both. Owners choice? I think i've found the instructions.

If you google: craigslist, fresno, ca. under all car and trucks, type plymouth wagon There is listed: 56 plymouth wagon $2000 54 plymouth wagon $2400 53 plymouth wagon- $700

Try going to a local paint store, preferrably one that been arround for years and carries multiple brand paints. Look at their paint charts, try asking for a color book thats made for fleet use. All shades of reds in one area, blues another, golds etc. with all varing shades in one area. Want a goldish/green, look at the gold area and the green area. Many mixes of color are avail. These "fleet colors" are usually Cheaper? amd most can mixed as single stage or base/clear coat mixes. Have them mix a pint of chosen color and try it on a smaller panel or unused panel and look at it outside in good light to make sure that it's what you want. Chosing a "special color" that you like can be hard! Best to ya, Doug

Attaching crudely drawn diagram to use VW latching type relay with push button OD on/off. Vw part # is for 12v setup. 6 volt VW switch is avail. per Jim Yergin, I wrote down that part # somewhere, Hope Jim still has it. It's wired the same! You pic is for a Heavy duty Bosch type standard relay, but is not a latching type, therefore button must be held down to Down shift. When button is released, Od shifts back to OD. The latching type holds your choice of on/off until button is pushed again. Your choice as to which you want. Found this pic of VW relay online. Terminal locations are differant than the diagram for 12v. I believe that the wiring is still the same.

Had a simular problem on my 50 4dr. drivers side rear tire. Removed tire and brake drum. The key had some dings and keyway some protuding edges. With file and sandpaper removed offending dings and such. Reinstalled all and it was fine. Hope it something relatively easy as was mine?? Best to ya, Doug

Cannot say myself as i've never had a stock/complete upholstery left in the 2- 50's or the 51 shell i have/had. Someone with and orginal stock interior needs to chime in. Your making it toward the finish line Joe, Good luck for a drive soon!! Doug

Yes you get the idea. There is no room for any backing board as the front window frame fits tight to the area. My upholstery guy brought the head liner down also even with the upper vent window pivots, which almost covers it all, but did not add the piece we are talking about and staples holding the windlace show in that area. Now i get to remove the window frame, unbolt the dash and use an extra piece of headliner material to make that piece!! So far i'm the only one who's noticed it but it does bother me> Best to ya, Doug

Joe, the rear armrests have a panel atached behind the steel armrest frames that are upholstered to fill the blank areas. I was lucky enough to buy a 51 4 dr. shell that still had the wasted panels/armrest frames still somewhat intact for the upholster to follow what needed to be done, otherwise i would of had no idea!! As for the blank area on the inner A posts, hard to explain but i'll try. A piece of uphostery material in tacked to the tack strip that overlaps the the headliner material then folded over on the top side to overlap the headliner and glued down. the side facing the front window is held down and covered by the window frame. The bottom part gets put under the dash panel (must be loosed an pulled rearward to tuck under). Best to ya, Doug Follow? If not not PM and i'll give email or phone # for direct contact.

Joe just leave an extra 3-4 " laying on the floor flat until installing sill plates, then cut to fit to tuck under sill plates. I made my own sill plates of steel as i could not afford Steeles Rubber sill plates at $400 + front/back a pair. Best to ya, man i can't belieive your working at those Virginia temps! Doug

Change stat relay to 12v. if running 12v. before you smoke the relay and some other wireing. 2nd. wire on starter could be the one that goes to the electric choke on the manifold. Look at a wiring diagram for 50. Then study your replacement wiring diagram and combine the two. Best to ya, Doug

OK, i see what your thinkin' is. I totalally agree to not going overboard with rear ratios, especially with OD. While i do want to try a 3.73 with a OD, i'm not planning to get rid of the 3.9's until i'm sure that's want i'm satisfied with. May be too much! I had some 3.54 gears (pumpkin) that i decideced to sell to someone that that did not have a OD. i thought too way much for a OD trans. Doug

Yes per my old Hollander interchange: The entire 3rd. member(pumpkin) fits as long as axles are 10 spline. Most had 2 spider gears some had 4, more chances to fit or not without more changes! Just can't change the ring an pinions between the 4.10 and up and lower ratios. Again from an old interchange. Maybe i should learn or get someone more computer literate than myself to post the Hollader Interchange pages then maybe Get them put on the Resorse pages-???

Tim, so if he ran 2.9 rear gears in OD then he would be to go +48mph at the same rpms? With an OD that had a 2.9 increase?? I thought a r-10 OD had 1.7 increase in final out ratio to rear not 2.9?? Not that i can currently confirm r-10 ratio but where did you find these ratios?? Just askin'

Tim how did you come up with the 48 mph increase with a OD? ONly off the top of my head, that does not seem right, please explain. Uncle-Pekka, The 4.10 rear end does Not allow changes to lower # gear ratios only Higher ie. 4.30, 4.56 etc. The carriers are different, at least per my old Hollander interchange manuel. You will need a lower ratio gear carrier, 3.9 and lower and then that can be changed to a 3.7 or 3.54 ring and pinion set. The axles # of teeth(spline) = 10. Again per Hollander interchange. Stock, 3.9 many mopar 6's ' 37-early 50's 3.7 Mostly Bus. cpe.'s 3.54 Mostly Chrysler 6's. Most could be Ordered, from factory or later installed. Hope you get your changes done soon, more fun to drive if you can comfortly keep up with the traffic! Best to ya, Doug

This may or may not look like your 52. The diagram is for all 50 mopars. Good luck, Doug

Way back on post 12 Uncle-Pekka stated that he had a OD from a 54 savoy, just missing solenoid etc. At 80 in my 50 it just sounds too busy to me, but probably just fine. My 8 cyl. tach is way off and i haven't taken time to figure out a conversion that it could mark correct #'s for the six. Heck it was free just needed cleaning and rewire. I don't like the 'busy' sound at 65 either when in 3rd. no OD. Sounds better at 57-60mph. Just me, like the quiet and feel that i'm taking it easy on the motor. Actually i plan to put in 3:73 gears when my friend gives them up from his 49 bus. cpe. A project waiting to get started. Then i could go out on the freeways and try to kill myself by cruizin at 85+!! best to ya all, Doug

I'm running 3.9 rear ratio with 2.15 x 70 x r15 with an OD trans in my 50 4 dr. 65mph is easy cruzin. 70mph no problem either. About 80 starts to sound to wound up for any great lenght of time, but the fan noise is probably the curprit. The only real holdback is my brakeing avail. With the others on the road on cells, kids, etc. i do prefer the slow lane at 60+ and drive behind the trucks when in commute traffic here on the 99 hwy. in towns. Uncle pekka search on ebay for OD solenoids: overdrive solenoids and r-10 transmissions. 6 volt solenoid look for 1955 and back, 12 volt 1956 up, do NOT have to be for MOPAR, just r-10 trans with 1" stroke on plunger, most are, ask!! Have not found a loose rear gear set yet of these years, they were built!! Best to ya, Doug

!00% agree with Andy! Doug

Joe, reread my post, did not mean to imply you did not do your homework, just what I did back a year ago when i did my front vents windows. Sorry! perhaps you got Rear vent rubber seal from Roberts that are shaped differant?? Best to ya, Doug

Joe, Is the rest of the door glass with insulators in yet?? If not, there is many adjustments to door glass that affect the vent window adjustments. I had the vent window mounts in the WRONG mounting holes(screw holes) until i put ALL parts together and made adjustments then i was able to see the problem after much looking. Duh! Was not clear until the whole picture was seen. Just a thought, sure you done a lot of head scratching before posting. Best to ya, Doug

Joe still trying to attached resized pics, i know you have already made decision to use what you Have! The only thing that MAY be differant is the abillity to adjust the angles open to avoid mirror(s) and turn on the AC (vents full open).!! Hope the steele rubber vent rubbers work well for you as i have 2 fronts still unused at this point and they are expensive! Best to ya, and the quality of work your striving for is inspiring!! Doug