DJ194950

Is he a Replublican or Democrat? That's right, Australians have differant names for their partys. Same, only differant?? Too funny, love it! Doug

Joe, sorry about the totally screwed up post, i'm fighting the New forum, but i'll learn. Young Ed's pic's of the "plates" are the same #'s both in my 49 ply. parts book and my 50 Mopar parts book for almost? all mopars. I also had some spares to look at when i did the fronts Only. Rears??? I could get some pics if not resolved soon, but it will require a trip to the storage container at a friends ranch. But, i do know where they are in that container! Let me know if needed, Doug

Fatory spec gap for plugs are at least for 1950= .028 non resistor, .035 for resistor I think you are running a resistor type plug. #306 std gap = .035 and per Pertonix + .005 = 0.040 gap I'm running my resistor plugs #,?? at .035 with a pertonix ign.. I figured the plug make and style would determine the correct plug gap. Opening the gap up to .060 could raise the insulator temp. too high and cause preignition(knock). I need to read the pertronix spec. again about the =.005 addition. Always learning is good for the old brain. Doug

Great!! But i'm an "outsider with 50 ply. 4 dr.,not a truck".! Doug

attached a copy of an original gasket that goes between the main case and the OD case, show all proper holes. One is for sharing lube oil between cases. Forget which one, maybe some used a std tailshaft/maind case gasket without all the holes?? Just a thought, Doug

Oil IS shared, trans/OD unit only fill both on intial install! After that check trans plug only after running. Recommrended oil manuel- borg-warner= GL-1 90 wt. Avail. at Napa if they will look at catolg of trans oils! Check level from under car. Also check in/out OD engagement of Cable for complete stroke at trans, my best guess now! Best to ya, Doug

Can you put it into first over or 2nd. over with no noise?? 6v. or 12v. ? Try grounding out the govenor ground wire to relay bypassing both govenor and back up switch checking for poor connection between the two and eliminate possible ground problem to relay, therefore not energizing solenoid engagement. Some thoughts, Best to ya, Doug

Does it have an upstairs bathroom?? Do ya want to rent it?? Rent project spaces below the living area?? Heck i could live in that!! Maybe no need for a shower or tub, just a basin to wash off the 90 wt. would sure to keep women at bay !! I'm a single, maybe that's why?? In The Garage, Doug

Tried that!! Draws many amps, especially on 12 volts. Could be done but could not afford the resistors required 12v.-6v. at 20+ amps. Just use at 12v. with heavy amp. relay and wires from relay to horns about 12-14ga. Maybe needed to tune the horns to work. Mine were cleaned etc. and needed VERY slight adjustments and a Good ground steer column to frame and horn to frame to work regularly! Best to ya, Doug

I would certainly like to know myself after rebuilting several r-10 trans and using one in my 50 4 dr. Mine was changed to 12v. at starting my rebuild( no engine, etc.) It did not work with the 6v. solenoid on trans. Checked solenoid off trans, seemed to work ok. Installed 12v. solenoid bought on epay for about $60 and worked good. Do not know why? Everyone else her has said it works ok! Buying on epay look for a solenoid advertised from a '56 or later! + 12V.! Regardless of make. Most fit and work, just make sure of the throwout measurement, engaged/disengaged. A FEW are longer stroke, ask questions! Just asking, did anyone leave here done 12v. conversions 12v.pos. ground ??, Or heard of such?? Crazy question I know!! Could be done! Why, i don't know, just askin!!!

That front bumper is a piece of art to me! It looks almost exactly what i wanted to do on my 50 suburban(with 49 front sheet metal and grill. Could not figure out how to make the center peak using stock 49 ribbed grille( i have 3 ) at home! Ended up making something SIMULAR from fiberglass. Would love a pic of the front bumper/pan from the side. Also i must say that the suburban is now in mothballs awaiting MONEY & ENERGY! Sorry no pics after computer crashed and car is in storage. That (young man) is very good, you're luckly to have found him! Keep the pictures coming as work progress. Love it! Thanks, Doug

Glad some people are getting a temp. break! Here in warm central ca. it's been high of 50's, low in the high 20's! NO fog! as usual this time of year. Love the climate changes!?? Back to the fuel gauge reading, is your gauge properly grounded also?? My friends 55 Chebby with brand new Classic Instrument gauges were all Way off on intitial startup, and he was quite concerned as all gauges had electic senders. Upon some checking I found that he had never hooked the ground wire -gauge panel to body. That correctly done, everything was working! Hoping simple, sometimes forgotton in all the changes?? Just one more possibility?? Best to ya, Doug

I do not wish to continue with this exchange. Anyone with questions please pm or email. I'll be happy to pm or converse via email, phone , about my experiences , about r10 trans wiring/setup/ factory produced repair/operation manuels (i think i have 3+, some thanks to Jim Yergin). Larry your question was no problem to me. Just my 2 cents! Call or pm and i'll email a schematic in my crude drawing, wiring if you want to do an update on OD wiring with newer relays. Tim, thanks for taking time to think about what i had posted. Wallytoo, I took no offense except for saying that who i may work for, without checking what i drove and all previous posts of mine to see what i may be up to. best to ya all, Doug I have mostly read posts daily as fun and always try to learn, as they say, Quit learning, then you die!

Tim, a lift is not in my future ! so, Don my birthdays in march or maybe next christmas. Want my shipping address?? Best to ya rich guys! Doug

I posted that info to try to be of some help. I had bought 2 mopar r-10 od's trans from the same person at a reasonable price and planned to put 1 in my 50 4dr. project. After a lot of research, including a call to pertronix about grounding their elect. ign. kit to determine if would be ok to ground out their sys. as needed to wire as a stock wiring would do and they said no problem as it would do exactly would do the same as a rev limiter would by temp. grounding out the side of the coil that goes dist. to coil and they have had no problems with that! I ended up not using original wiring setup with the org. type kickdown that used the temp. grounding wire to the coil. Instead i wired it close to what Blueskies did but added a latching relay and a bosch type relay and the button on the shifter per blueskies and NO need for the grounding wire to the coil. Therfore my experience is 0 if if actually works. Just after doing my homework i could see no reason that it would not. Either 6v. or 12 v. could be properly wired to work fine. Just made my decision to wire it diff. from factory and absolutely love it. Never move the shifter cable for OD, it's always engaged, using the button with the latching type relay to engage or disengage OD. Lift throttle after pressing button and shift in/out. 3k-4k miles now on the 50 Ply. of mine with 0 problems. Pete's problem with it blowing fuses MAY have been that he changed to 12v. neg. ground and hooked the grounding wire to the coil to the + of the coil. Really hate to say that as i never talked to pete about this as he had already made the change to the button shift up/down and the point was moot! Only tried to pass on what i had learned before i installed my OD trans. Everyone needs to do their own homework to match what THEY want to do. Google borg warner r10 trans and see that there is a lot of info out there! The r10 was used in many manufactors cars and work the same with some minor differances. ALSO, I do not work for anyone these days, only in my garage or back concrete slab in my backyard as weather permits!

Seems that after some searching that Desotodav and Tod Finch have spent some time looking for #'s for the replacement bushings and came up with a Napa # ech 4070. There may be a diff. upper bushing # mopar 871752 but my parts book show that # as Export # only. A search on Eichlin parts books shows #4070 to fit all mopar dist.'s to 1982. During this search it seems that #4070 may fit mopar generators also. Front/back/both i'm not sure- spent no time on that subject! Lenght on bushing may be only issue between #'s. Maybe a local starter/generator rebuildter may be able to replace/fit your replacement bushings. Napa-eichlin 4070 were avail. in my local store which now has almost nothing for flat head mopars, which i think is because of the multiple uses. Best to ya, Doug

No amount of (tune-up) will cure worn dist. bushings. Dwell will ideally not change with rpm change. Quick and easy dist. bushing check- remove cap. Push on the shaft side to side, point opening change = worn dist. bushings. Change of dwell will change the time coil has to soak up spark, also will change timing. Just my 2 cents. Doug

About 3-4 months ago i got quotes in the modesto-stockton ca. area for 50 Ply. bumpers at $400 with NO straightening (extra cost as 1 place sent them to someone else for straightening) , 2nd shop did it all and great work i have seen, price was $550 with Minor straightening and pit repair. Condition = price! Best to ya, Fogged in yet?? Doug

Looks like a hand operated fuel injector spray nozzle pattern tester that i have seen in repair manuels (i believe Deutz- cummins?) but have never seen or used.?? Doug

Yes windlace goes in first. Yes there are (pockets sewed into headliner for bows to go Above) headliner. Any experienced interior person can make all parts of an interior with the bows. The best luck on headliners has been with when i had the old just as a pattern for the spacing. Sure others can also chime in with Co's that premake headliners for do-it-yourselfer's. Do a on line search on headliner install as i have seen before! Best to ya, Happy new year! Doug

I think maybe a first question is in order. What do You want to do with this?? Restore, keep on farm and just wanting info, or license and drive on the road?? Engine info only needed for a few internal parts if a rebuild is needed. Head gasket May vary between years but as explained in many earlier posts( use search functions) to read those. Many states in older days used the motor # for registration, maybe reason the motor #'s where removed from your engine, as if stopped and a check was done, at least it did Not have the wrong #! Do you have your state owners papers?? If so, what # was used as rego # ?? Maybe it will match the tag in the door post, or as mine does match the body tag on the fire wall. Best, seems that you're enjoying the trip and wanting to know more about this great old Mopar! Best to ya, Doug

I'm planning to bring my 50 4 dr. sdn. again, had fun last year! Hope my friend with his 37 4 dr. sdn. will make it this time! What if another friend tags along with 55 Chev. 2 dr. post?? May be his first outing after prostate surgery in Feb., but right now we're trying to get on the road after 1yr. and 3 mo.s on working on it. Very close to being on the road, primer an all! 396 with noisy cam, headers 4 whl. power disc. 700 R-4, overall nice condition. Thanks for invite again! Doug

When i thought that i'd rebuild a water pump using a kit i bought from ebay from a guy in Turkey( took over 2 months and a email to get) for a spare to carry, I looked at my 49 Ply. repair manuel and found that two diff. pump rebuild instructions for 2 diff. types. 1 did have a pin in a drilled hole through the shaft and the 2nd. did not. I decided it looked to hard to do at home without all the special tools involved per the instructions and just keep a used pump that worked but was just a little noise in the front bearing( did not have a grease fitting as some did). Perhaps the pin was used in earlier types to adjust bearing play?? as said? I was orginally refering to a later type? that did not have the drilled pin that seemed the same as the 2nd. type mentioned earlier in the 49 repair manuel. Hey, Todd are going to be arround at X-mas?? I'm thinking that I will drive my 50 4 dr. ply. up to S.F. to spend the holiday with my niece & family. She lives just off Ocean Blvd. a couple miles east of the ocean. My 50 has a great heater whereas my other old daily car has No heat! Plan to be there 12/24 thru 12/26 then back to the Modesto. Where ya at. Maybe stop by??

I have found the the flange to mount the pulley and fan are often positioned wrong for a particular application. This flange is pressed on and can be moved forward or backwards by using a puller to pull forward or correct size deep socket to clear shaft diameter and hammer to move backwards, just remove the rear plate first and with another correct size socket or piece of scrap round steel to support the shaft at the impeller so as not to do any damage to the bearings or seal(s). Kind of a pain after a completed water pump install (at least the pump) to get things aligned properly! Removing it again and all, trial fits etc.! As they say "been there. done that" !! Best to ya, Doug