DJ194950

Fist i'd think Wilcap would at least have a diagram to build the link to the carb. since they are making the adaptor. Second, try using the search function on Street Rodder mag. Several years back they had a diagram that showed the required travel for the cable with drawings and specs. for the 700-r4. Best of luck. If you find the info, i'm sure others on this forum would appreciate if you posted it! Doug

:confused:I think it may be time to change ins. companies. If memory is correct?(old age etc) my Haggerty policy covers towing to a repair facility that can fix your covered OT vehicle and if none are avail, to quickly repair they will take your vehicle back to YOUR house or a repair facilty that can repair it as long is it's not further away than your house. Again this from memory and i'd have to dig up the policy to confirm! I know this won't help your current plans, but for the future but check the collector car type of insurance to see if it's better suited to this type of driving that you plan to do. With my Haggerty policy I said I may drive my car 8,000 per year and that was no problem as long as was personal use only! I have no personal experence with the truck and trailer rental experience but others have on thic forum. Best of luck with your trip! Doug

I use a napa 1050 filter and mount that was on the flat 230 motor i got from a forklift. Has a very small hole on the top side of the filter for the bypass type oiling system. We used these filters for years in a fleet (50-60) of forklifts with mopar flat six motors. Some 23" and some 25" motors. Just find youself a remote type filter mount for a screw on type filter. Napa can give you the thread specs form the 1050 filter to make sure that your buying a mount with the same threads. Happy hunting! Doug

;)I've found that lenses can be buffed on a buffer, but with VERY light pressure using a very fine rouge or jewelers rouge. If very rough to start, very fine sandpaper, used wet first, really helps. If you don't have a buffer wheel on at least a grinder, Don's answer is probably the best(might also be even otherwise). All the Replacement front park/turn lenses for a 49 are glass. Original plastic NOS lenses have been WAY too high to ebay for a long time and rare!! I put yellow bulbs in the front and show up great and really don't show when off. There is a rear lense on ebay now for $12.95 now that i think fits your 49 4 dr. but decript. leaves some doubt to me because i'm not sure what your style looks like?? Best to ya, Doug

Try to find some lock washers made for allen head bolts "with the round heads", which are a smaller diameter than regular lock washers. Find a bolt type retailer that sells grade 5 or 8 allen head bolts and ask for the matching washers. Also might try a bearing supply place, some carry these type bolts and washers. Good luck! Doug

You could probably make some money in Mexico with that taxi! A lot more if the passengers on top where carrying machine guns for the cartels!

Just time for me to says thanks for all the imputs! I'd love for the pressure to stay at 30+ when fully warm And driven, but so many say don't worry, so i won't! Thanks for the feedback. For Neils last comment on hot/warm starts, I have found that 0 pumping the gas actually made it easier to start. I was pumping it like it was cold and it did not start until i'd finally hold the throttle 1/2+ open, almost wide open. Thanks to all for the comments, Doug.

Running out of gas due to filter, pump, not breathing into the tank will make this sound. Even run out of gas with this car? If you let off the gas does it lighten up, go away? then you're on track. The other thing mentioned can also cause this, but not for an extending period of driving, except for plugged exhaust. Have someone rev motor for a minute or two and check the exhaust flow from the pipe. Best of luck, betting on fuel problems thou, Doug

I've been following this forum for 2+ years and have read that 40 psi- 55 psi at higher rpm's is good with an idle rpm when hot is 5psi - 10 psi is also good. Why is the lower psi ok?, when newer motors including mopar do NOT do this?. Just trying to understand this. Mine is about 45psi cold and about 10-15psi when fully warmed up, seems no problems, but is just enginerred into the mains, cam bearings, or the oil pump? Expansion of any/all of the above? Can this be changed? Has someone trying to change this? I know Ferd and Mopar believed that flow was more important than pressures(pressure = resistance to flow), but now the ALL seem to into pressures.? Just curious, Seems we have some very well trained/experienced forum members, Thanks for your imputs, Doug

Thanks for the post! The carbs site shows an newer style electric choke conversion for flat 6's it appears? Says mopar 6 1 bbl. part # 1231 or 1232. Possibly for the newer flat 6"s?? Interesting! The old solenoid lift type are getting harder to find and pricey. I do have one now that works fine, but put this on fav's for future use?? The carb adaptor looks good for the small turbo'ed Flat six with several cfm. carbs avail. to fit. Ya, still dreaming! Thanks, Doug

I installed a R-10 OD in my 50 PLy. 4 dr. The Borg-Warner Manuel stated Use GL-1 (preferred) as lubricant. Why fight when it's avail.?? I'm sure other lubes will work, but why try to change when it's avail.?? Just my 2cents.LOL! Best, Doug

No, changed 3 spd. to an OD in 50 Ply. Used the emer. brake cable that came with the car. Cable was not in car(in the trunk). However trans and engine were out when purchased. I have a good emer. brake cable, willing to trade straight accros for the OD trans, I'll pay even pay the shipping;) Try verious routes for the cable, i"m sure that you can find one that works just fine. Best to you, Doug

If anyone has a good leftover turbo off, say from a 4 cyl. diesel with waste gate, blow off and maybe an adjustable boost control i'd take the time to try it out on my 230ci 50 4 dr. Ya right!! Build a blow thru type box for the carb (larger carb. required i'm sure), use the sodium filled exhaust valves form a flattie 6 forklift motor (i have the valves), I do believe that it's a good possibility if one would limit the boost to a lower # (6-8 ???). That would still leave room for the AC compressor. Why not have a hot car that"s cool inside??

Maybe you and Rodney need to get together at car shows. See his recent post!

Seems ford aslo had an R-11 for high perf. motors with 3 sp. and OD. Have only seen this by googlin borg warner r-10 and sometimes parts etc. on ebay. Anyone with more info. would be appreciated! Would like to find a borg warner R-10 parts interchange and be able to build R-10 trans for chrysler flat motors from parts??

Maybe throw a sheet over the back seat with a sign that says: GET A MOTEL ROOM! Gotta watch out for the cougars! The older the more aggressive they get! On the up side they're very easy to please. Sorry i cannot say how i know this!!

I would like to thank Bob Riding for his offer of the motors. My friend Larry and I met with Bob sunday and he helped load two of the motors for free. One a complete long block unknown year (remfg.? tag only), and a also complete p-20 motor. Fairly appropiate for a 49 bus. coupe soon to be upcoming project and a 50 bus. coupe ,Unknown start on put together on this one! Great outter body but NO inner sheet metal! I know it should have a P-17 motor for the 49 but it's not going to be a complete resto show type car anyway. Took my camera to get pics, but between loading time, looking at Bob's 40 woody Finished chassis and motor, OD trans, 51 very complete stock unrestored Suburban and a few others, pics just didn't happen. Sorry all! Lastly, Thanks very much again BOB! Doug & Larry

From VERY limited experience-- an R-10"G" fits mopar. The only other reference letter after the R-10 was an "H" fitting a Ford if my poor memory still serves me! Maybe many more! I'm asking?? I have posted this question on several mopar sites without response, about the Letter AFTER the R-10 means-Ford-Chevy- hudson- ETC. as these R-10 borg warner OD units where sold to almost ALL car mfg'ers as options. From what i have read Chrysler designed this OD, sold rights to build these to Borg Warner, who made them for any mfg. that wanted them! Time for someone else to step in with an R-10 OD history lesson?? I hope so!! Doug

By refering him to blueskies site, my idea was only a one place spot idea of the possible fitments/problem areas, rather than hours spent, searching previous posts on search the forum. From my experience and reading the posts here for several years, the Whole R-10 G trans fits without modifications. The only change that i have become aware of is sometimes changing the shift levers. That only applies if the trans came from a non torque converter type trans setup, where the imput shaft is longer (but can be changed!) per Pete(blueskies).

Blueskys website is a great reference site to look at for these OD trans. He went through many changes to get a working one for his car! SEE: 50plymouth.com Look at the transmission section for Great info. Best, Doug

Get all the bits mentioned. But there is nothing special on the dizzy for the OD. Great find! Best to ya! Doug

;)Love to ride in one properly set up flat motored car to see if would be worth the work/expense. Not within my means now, but just planning to try something like this would be fun for me, maybe try to get my fellow old car lover/builder with slightly more money to build at 230ci. w/turbo for his 49 bus. coupe upcoming project! At least i could get a few rides! If anyone on this forum goes this way, please post the process even if is is ongoing trial/effort. Also maybe someone who follows the HAMB forum sees at turbo on flat motor (not flat ferd, please) Let us know so we can check it out! Thanks for posting! Doug

Worked great , nice video! First rides are never forgotten even if when things are not perfect, however your ride seems flawless! Love the sound of the smittys. Got to get one. My car is to quiet! Single exhaust with split into two a rear. Must have a turbo(quiet) muffler, not noisy enough! Thanks for the ride! Doug

Thanks for the call Bob. Will call later about get together on Sunday. Thanks again, Doug and Larry

A fixed blade fan is noisy at higher rpms as most flat motor owners know. Even the 4 blade makes many dislike the sound at 2500 rpm + , really mostly not used to it on our other cars don't make this noise as manufactors started using clutch fans or other fan types with the change to higher reving motors. I have heard from others that a fixed blade 6 blade fan is even worse than the four with most changing back to the four or using flex fans or electrics. Still suggest a shroud first, flex 6 blade (if space permits) second, electric (most work, per your statements) last. Best of luck keeping that beautiful hemi cool! Doug