Merle Coggins

I've never had a clutch alignment tool. I have always used my 'eyecrometer' to get it as close as possible before tightening down the clutch plate. Then when I slide the trans into the spline it'll get tight when it gets to the pilot bushing. I'll manipulate the clutch pedal linkage to release the clutch slightly, or have an assistant push down the clutch pedal, and the trans will slip right in.

Interesting frame extensions... ?

The supply line from the master cylinder to the junction block is larger than the lines that run from the junction block to the wheels. Think of it as the main artery that branches off to the smaller veins that feed the various organs. It should have a loop in it to provide a little bit of flex since the master cylinder is attached to the bell housing and will move with the engine on it’s rubber mounts, whereas the junction block is mounted rigid to the frame.

Well, I did mention it was a ‘project’… ?

Some trucks have the Air-O-Ride seat with an adjustable air valve in the bottom of the cushion. The lever is under the front of the cushion, but they put a placard for it on the windshield header.

Here’s Ulu’s next bicycle project… ? (stollen from Facebook)

☝️What he said… ☝️

Looks like an awesome project. Looking forward to seeing more of it.

Your C-series may be different than my B-series truck, but it looks similar. Your drawing is close, but there is another piece of sheet metal between the hinge and the threaded plate. As I remember it, the hinge slides into a pocket in the A pillar and the threaded plate is captured in front of that pocket. I recall that it can float slightly, but is caged in place when the bolts are removed. As mentioned earlier, try some localized heat on the bolts to break the rust bond. I’ve had luck in similar situations by heating the head of the bolt to cherry red, letting it cool, sometimes repeating that process, then try loosening again. The heat-cool cycles will weaken the rust bond. Of course that would damage the surrounding paint if you are worried about that. Otherwise just rattle away with an impact gun to see if they’ll come loose. Switch the gun between loosen and tighten as you rattle on it.

I believe replacement front panels are available through Mar-K, or Hornkey… maybe others. The panel under the tailgate would be fairly simple to fabricate if yours is not repairable, especially if you know of someone with a metal brake. As for the rest of it… I’ve seen worse brought back to life. It’s doable.

I contacted Bob Koch about it a week or 2 ago. He wasn’t aware it was down but was going to dig into what happened.

Good to see it getting back on track…

Stainless steel bolts tend to be a bit softer and subject to thread galling. I would stay away from them if possible.

I've been an Amsoil user for many years, so that's what I'm using in my truck gear box. However, what you are looking at is just fine. I believe the original spec was for a GL-1 gear oil, which isn't easy to find these days. However, your GL-4 should be find in your spur gear trans.

Are they not molded into the new rubber seals? It’s been a while since I’ve done this, but I recall that the new seals had the metal spacers build in. They are there so that the screws have something solid to tighten against without distorting the rubber.

Bob replied to my message and told me that the domain is paid up into next year so the site should be up and running. He’s going to dig into why it’s not. He’s also going to send me info on how to access the files, once it’s up and running again, so that we can save them to the forum site.

The last time I communicated with him was via Facebook Messenger. I just sent him another message. We'll see what comes of it.

Sweet!

Those corner pieces are just too expensive… ?

It looks like there is no, or very little, trail on the front wheel. You still have a fair amount of rake in the fork, but the fork is mounted so far behind the axle that it nearly eliminates the trail, which is what you need for stable steering and tracking.

Has anyone contacted Bob Koch about this?

The photo of a pile of sliding tracks does not belong with your truck. They are from something else. As stated earlier, everything is there on the seat frame. The angled pieces at each end, with 2 holes each, bolt into the front and rear of the seat pedestal. I couldn't find any pictures in my photo collection that show it well, but it'll make sense once you set the frame into the cab. Remove the cushions from the frame and then set the frame into the cab, onto the pedestal. The angle brackets should slip inside the pedestal and line up with matching holes. As I recall you'll need 5/16" by about 1 inch long bolts to attach it. Then you can reinstall the cushions and you're ready to cruise.

I believe Ed is referring to this... I won it as a door prize at Mopars in the Park back in '09 and had to haul it home from Minnesota.

That too... ?

There are 4 cab mounting bolts, but you'll also need to remove the steering column/gear box unless you are able to raise the cab high enough to clear the steering shaft. and if you do leave the steering gear in place you'll want to remove the steering wheel. It'll fit through the floor opening, but you may need to be able to twist the cab around to get the right angle to get it through. You'll also have to deal with all of the electrical wiring that connects the cab functions to the chassis functions. This is a major undertaking. Are you sure you are up for this? I haven't seen you complete your other projects yet. Shouldn't you focus on them first before you move everything to Maine?