Dodgeb4ya

That's great! I would buy extra "Good" ignition parts just to have. Where you find them these days is a challenge though as you now know. I prefer clean looking ,in original packaging, big name NOS parts. Factory Autolite, Sorensen etc ignition parts.

You would think Burnbaum's would know to send the correct seals after 50 years of selling them for these old MoPars.

I have run them with the top off quite a few times....the float pivot pin clip has to be tight holding the float pin down tight. I don't recommend anyone to do it though....it's a fire hazard if the fuel bowl is low....that's when there is fuel spray/slosh through the needle and seat. If the fuel bowl is full no issue.

Why clean the filter? Why set it vertical? Doesn't matter. It's a 2-1/2 ton 1952 Dodge dump I only use a couple times a year hauling property clean up debris. It's never on the road. It is all original chassis wise and always starts and runs well. All I need with that truck. Heres's another one of my my trucks engines.... all stock carbs/ fuel filters and lines as when new and as should be. There's nothing wrong with glass bowl fuel filters over the the manifolds. Ma MoPar sold them designed that way. They work and service fast and easy and don't leak if serviced properly.

The C-3105 won't do much good postioning a modern seal as modern seals are made differently than the original MoPar seals. Reason being seal lip position, seal thickness etc. The original rear trans seal is roughly 3/4" thick and has both leather and felt sealing materials used... The new modern seals have two thin rubber sealing lips and are generally 1/2" thick. The original C-3105 tool will work on the new seals but cannot drive them flush if needed. What is most important is to locate the seal lip on a perfect groove and pit free area of the machined companion flange hub. Use a speedi-sleeve if necessary. The other issue is to drive it in not too far but enough so the face of the seal is away from the companion flange. If not when tightening the companion flange onto the output shaft the seal will get caved in with out you knowing it. This happens all the time on the inner seals on rear axles in our old MoPars. The last issue with these modern replacement thin tin seals is to use a round flat edge driver that only pushes on the outside edge of the seal. Steel pipe, bearing race, proper size cup driver etc. Using a hammer and or hammer and a drift will distort these new thin to win seals which can slightly cave the seal face and seal lip inward causing leakage. Easy on the hammer blows... Use some grease on the seal lip, #2 Permatex on the companion flange splines and OD of the seal.... Or your choice of sealant. Check to be sure the lip spring is still in place. Get'er done!

Check the head for flatness...if the block needs decking you're in serious trouble.

The piston I posted a pic of is for a 4-1/16" 413ci. 30" flat head engine. The Arias spec sheet wouldn't be of much help for the 251/265 engines. The design and build cost was horrendous.

Oil pressure gauge uses the smallest oriface fitting to eliminate needle fluctation. Use the typical larger #124320 fittings on the oil filter.

Now days I would only want three ring pistons...recently had Arias make me up a custom forged set...

Yes remove the big nut and washer...mark position of pitman arm to sector shaft...use a large pitman arm puller or suitable puller to remove the pitman arm and steering shaft link from steering gear. Carefully remove the old seal...don't damage the sealing surfaces. Bad part is the gear oil will ooze out making it messy. Carefully install a new seal. Re-assemble arm and link shaft to steering gear.

I have never seen valve rotators on the 25" engines....only on the 30" engines and of course ind. Hemi's. Sodium valves would be some what common on H-duty apications. Brass valve guides used on some engines I have engines using these H-duty up grades. One note...marine engines and others sometimes are reverse rotation... meaning the cam and oil pump gears are different than passenger cars. Tri-layered heavy duty bearings are used in most industrial engines too. Good luck finding those severe service bearings for a flathead today.?

Excellent work!?

Choke stove heat pipe...fits down into the intake manifold cross over passage. Provides hot air to unwind choke thermostatic coil...letting choke plate open.

Thebwindshields on the hardtops are pretty low profile. I saw one on a 50 DeSoto Sportsman...same convert/hardtop windshield...looked kinda goofy. But whada I know?

Someone re- wired the trans wiring. Pull the fuse on the relay...drive it. It should instantly upshift into high upon release of the gas pedal. If it does that at least the M5 trans works Hydraulically and mechanically. Then on to thebcontrols and wiring. You need to get the factory shop manual to own and service this car. Study carefully how this M5 "Hydraulically Operated" transmission operates. Make sure it...the trans is filled properly with 10W oil too. It won't shift if low. That's a very low production top line Chrysler 3 passenger cpe. About 600 made in three years 1946-48.

Well that's kinda a bummer...oh well another bruco bring er back challenge.

That's a rare top of the line Dodge! Second year of the Diplomat hardtop. It's complete and looks like a great car to bring back to life and enjoy. Of course it has the Gyro-Matic trans too.

That's a positive friendly comment...

The stubby transmissions are used in the short wheel base cars... wagons, 3 passenger coupes and hog back cars. The stubby trans front and rear mainshaft bearings wear out quicker than the longer style 3 speed transmission.... as it has three bearings that support the main and output shafts.

The double roller Ross steerin box with the sector shaft coming out the side with the pitman arm as shown would not be too hard as long as you have a good and big pitman arm puller. For and aft type steering linkage. The other steering box is a gemmer style with the pitmam arm hanging hanging at the botton of the angled down sector shaft . A messy job on that style. Shown is the Ross easier style to replace the box seal.

Pull the trans out...probably find 1st gear slider tooth damaged and or cluster gear tooth same. Not uncommon to see this on an old hard driven high mileage 3 speed.

Typical good 6V coil tesistance readings are ***prmary 1.0-1.5 ohms *** secondary 5000- 8000 ohms. You have no reading on the high voltage side secondary coil... Double check it.. If still the same open circuit....Bad coil I'd say

Great photo's BTW!?

Your engine has Silicon-Chromium Steel valves and valve seats. Exhaust valves are sodium filled..exhaust seats are stellite faced too. Plus the block is "Nickel-Chrome." No need for valve seat or valve additives.

No water in the gas? Just throwing that out there. Had a job years ago withnester contamination. Can cause your same problems. I think it's going to be some silly little issue.