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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. For a upper line Plymouth Cranbrook that picture shows the typical 500 series heater that you usually find in the Cranbrook line of cars.
  2. Did you ever try to get the build sheet from Chrysler or who ever they are these days??
  3. The heater hoses are only connected to the heater control valve for by pass purpose only. The model 500/550 MoPar heater box and duct are missing.
  4. You might look on ebay for one...
  5. A small bolt attaches the heat chamber cover to the manifold using that threaded hole.
  6. Breath on a few drops of never opened DOT3/4 brake fluid and see how fast/much the boiling point drops using your testor. Compare teadings to testing new right out of the bottle. Or leave a small amount in a cup outside in damp weather for an hour... Shocking how fast DOT3/4 absorbs water. Glycol DOT 5.1 is even worse.? If your brake fluid is amber...it's in need of change.
  7. The 1949-50 Plymouth /Dodge optional E-brake signal light kit is #1300961.
  8. Been just south of Beebe Bridge many times...summer time entertainment on the Columbia...?
  9. Most likely an option on the Dodge. All the Chryslers have the e-brake light as std. equipment.
  10. It's going to look like one of these.
  11. Dodge used the governors as rpm limiters. As for the E9K1 carbs they are slightly larger flow carb than the ETT1. Main jet for the E9K1...334 CC Main jet for the older ETT1...312-316 CC per minute. The accelerator pump discharge jet is a bit bigger on the ETT1 than the E9K1. E7T2 is a direct newer replacement for theETT1. All three of these carbs are close in spec.
  12. Those square shafts are easy to safely wedge out of the pot metal door and trunk handles. There are different lengths of those square shafts depending on model of the car.
  13. Neil Riddle up in Shoreline (aka...ebay "seaplym" ) will have those MoPar split torque shaft bearings.
  14. No fuse (blown) the trans will always imediately upshift and never downshift till complete dead stop.
  15. Clean the governor points carefully. No files or sandpaper. Electrical contact cleaner and a lint free cloth.
  16. As mentioned...No toe in/out on the MoPar rear axle.
  17. You will have to remove the temp sender fom the head and pull it thru the firewall...first removing the firewall clamp ring and rubber seal. Removing the temp bulb in the head might just easily come out... be gentle trying to pull it out...but if not the soft plug above the bulb needs to be removed so a screw driver can be used to wedge the sender bulb out of the head fitting. Removing the gauge from the cluster and letting it hang is risking damage to the gauge needle and face. The oil line to gauge also needs removal.
  18. The part# of your exhaust manifold can be located on the flat underside of said manifold.
  19. Having the OE MoPar part # always helps locating the correct parts much faster.
  20. I'd use #1 for no confusion. I'd also just worry about the timing being checked at idle speed. You can see what you get at higher rpm's but it will probably be in spec...I have never had any issues with these very plain and simple distributors. I have checkef a couple of mine on a Sun machine...none out of calibration issues. The centrifical weights cannot be stuck and the shaft bushings cannot be worn. Yes each mark is 2 degree's on the dizzy. Each mark on the crank pulley is 1 degree.
  21. Hardest part of timing one of these engines is bringing up the timing marks located on the center of the dual pulleys....you have to sand this hard to access area between the pulley grooves. Belts are in the way. Shown is a picture of of the timing marks... Adjusting the idle fuel mixture is pretty basic.. Engine fully warmed up...you then slowly turn the mixture screw CW inward till engine the engine just starts to slow down/ idles rougher just a bit. Then back out the screw CCW 1/2 TO 1 turn to obtain the smoothest idle. Repeat on the other carb. Might have to repeat this on both carbs again ...Simple. One thing to note though is both carburetor throttle plates at closed idle need to be set exactly the same for both carbs. Properly adjusted throttle linkages are also critical when setting base idle throttle plates. If they are not exactly the same opening at slow idle it affects how smooth the engine idles. These engines normally idle perfectly smooth... smooth...smooth if the carbs are set right. A Uni-Syn sync tool can do wonders setting up multple carbs but not necessary if you follow the shop manual procedure. There's a techie learning curve setting up dual carbs 100% correctly. So for now I think you should only set timing at a slow 450-600 RPM idle speed. As mentioned above by Merle a bit advanced 2-4 degree's before TDC. Probably 4degree's. This because of todays fuel. Then set both idle mixtures for now best you can. Get clean fuel in it and new plug wires...then hopefully get some driving time on it. You have enough on your plate as is right now. Get it driving good enough and later go back and do more difficult fine tuning. Once right it's set for good.
  22. There were a couple guys on here a few years back ...Gene aka "AustinSailer" and Charlie Stephenson who were yearning for and finding a 413 Flathead six. The 413 is a really rare and low production engine.....The largest most powerful flathead six Chrysler Corp ever made. Used only in low production model "Y" 4 ton 1953-55/56 Dodge Trucks.
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