Dodgeb4ya

Yes the tools make the job done right for centering the pivot shafts in the pre-loaded A-arms....have done plenty of them. Lower arm shafts generally don't wear out like the upper arms unless poor greasing history. Shown is a 56 Imperial upper Arm needing .020" spacer shim stock for proper arm spread.⁸

A damaged, worn direct speed syncro ring, sleeve and input shaft will seriously affect upshifts too. Too high a cold idle speed or oily governor points will delay upshifts too.

Here is a NOS M-6 MoPar clutch disc measurement, .330" Notice how close together the discs are to each other. Each facing is yes .125". Many rebuilt discs today are too thick causing adjustment issues.

Some ebay sellers should be charged a inventory tax. Bring down the national debt quick.

I agree the moderm chinese ones are total junk. I have soldered the wing up too. Never had one leak. I have saved up good oem used ones.

1/4" drain petcock block or radiator...

Install the rubber onto the glass...large section of rubber faces into the cab. Install glass and rubber from inside of cab. Pull smaller rubber lip to outside of cab over pinch weld with 1/8" rope. Same for front and rear DT 1948-53 trucks.

The coolant plugs can leak because of corrosion pitting in the plug counter bore recess. Not all blocks today have like new pit free counter bores. Also there seem to be so many plugs that are not installed properly and prematurely pop out. They really need to be driven in almost but not quite flat with a large heavy drift. 3/4 the size of the plug using a heavy 2-3 lb. Hammer. Two to three straight on moderate firm hits will fully set the 1-5/8" plugs. Installing plugs in the car or truck is difficult for sure but can be done...best to remove the inner fender panel on that situation for guaranteed results. Spend the time...install them right IMO.

On that plug....oil hits it, I always use Permatex #1 or 2. The right Stuff works fine too. The coolant plugs are the critical ones to seal against leakage and possibly coming out from improper installation.

As Adam H said....JB weld I do the same on the Hemi's because of high volume and pressure on HP engines. Still a good thing to use on six or eight cylinder engines. Just install them correctly using JB Weld. They will never leak or pop out.

You redo those rope seal plates... Buy a set of ropes...slightly spread the rope seal plate so to be able pull out the old rope. Carefully work the new rope tightly/completely into the rope seal plate. Re-sqeeze the seal plate tight against the rope. Then work and firmly roll the new rope seal to properly match fit the crank diameter... It should not be so tight that the crank is harder to turn once the main cap is torqued. Ends of rope need to stick up above the cap mating surface about .010-.015". Lube the rope seals with oil before installing. Not fun doing this job in the car. On a stand is best.

Times certainly have changed. I know a lot of good machine shops have disappeared...probably a sign of the times. Not much machine shop work needed these days compared to the past. I know you are careful in what you do. I guess you have no choice but to do it yourself. If so I'd use really good quality brushes that the bristles don't fall off into the galleys or other areas of the block. No wire brushes...might lose a wire or two somewhere and might end up in a bearing. I would use lots of super clean and or brake cleaner. It will be slow and messy buy do-able... Ya gotta do what ya gotta do!?

The engine tear down/assembler owner like myself and others always needs to check over all engine machine shop work. And you have done so. If your shop leaves oil sludge in the block I'd be right back there asking...why is there still this nasty sludge left in my block when I asked that you clean it really good? I need this block properly cleaned...can you try again? If they can't...some discount on the bill and off to another "competent" shop. I have a very good machine shop I have used for over 40 years. Lucky me..?

Best answer... A good machine shop that will clean that block and all it's hidden sludge in the oil galleries and all water passages too. I'd have them clean all the rods, cam, crank, lifters, oil pan,timing cover, pick up and head too. Don't let something wipe out a bearing or too.. Cleanliness is a must when rebuilding a engine...no dog or cat hairs either?

To remove said vent...Right below the 3/8" vent cap is a 916" hex...use a 916" wrench or deep socket to remove the all in one bolt/ vent cap. Remove and clean it up.

You probably want to be driving "Bruco" before history searching at this point...?

For a upper line Plymouth Cranbrook that picture shows the typical 500 series heater that you usually find in the Cranbrook line of cars.

Did you ever try to get the build sheet from Chrysler or who ever they are these days??

The heater hoses are only connected to the heater control valve for by pass purpose only. The model 500/550 MoPar heater box and duct are missing.

You might look on ebay for one...

A small bolt attaches the heat chamber cover to the manifold using that threaded hole.

Breath on a few drops of never opened DOT3/4 brake fluid and see how fast/much the boiling point drops using your testor. Compare teadings to testing new right out of the bottle. Or leave a small amount in a cup outside in damp weather for an hour... Shocking how fast DOT3/4 absorbs water. Glycol DOT 5.1 is even worse.? If your brake fluid is amber...it's in need of change.

The 1949-50 Plymouth /Dodge optional E-brake signal light kit is #1300961.

Been just south of Beebe Bridge many times...summer time entertainment on the Columbia...?

Most likely an option on the Dodge. All the Chryslers have the e-brake light as std. equipment.