Dodgeb4ya

That 51-53 wiper motor is basically a 1949-52 Dodge,DeSoto and Chrysler wiper motor. The truck wiper motor requires a different mounting bracket and links. The electric wiper motors on B1/2 trucks same situation but use a 1946-48 DeSoto and Chrysler wiper motor mounted with a truck bracket and truck only linkages.

MoPar flathead .433" sodium exhaust valve to guide clearance's are spec'd at .003"-.005". On a Chrysler marine engine like the Royal or Majestic they run under heavy load... I'd be at the higher end of spec.

O'Reilly's has the B&B kits too...1+year ago about $40.00.. Have bought three of them...same kits as all the other vendors...no FD anti-stall plunger though.

Distributor plug wire ends typically sold by several old MoPar parts vendors are really not a reliable terminal end no matter how crimped to the wire end. They usually stay in the cap when the plug wire is removed from said dizzy cap. An orihinal MoPar terminal end shown as modern high quality cap ends. Shown are the proper dizzy cap terminal ends and do require proper technique and terminal crimp pliers to install the terminals. I have installed these terminal ends for years on the MoPar flatheads.

Len is an old man 85+..doesn't really want to talk with customers even if you can get in touch. I have seen his parts bldg. Cleanest most organised MoPar parts building I have even been in. Find your part# if listed, pay for it and wait for delivery. He's been in the MoParbusiness for 50+ years and is honest. I have bought several items from him clear even back when he was in Reno.

The slight taper was on a 34 PE I did recently and on a 36 P2 several years back. Would have been nice to install speedi- sleeves. Are all 1942 and back drums supposed to be straight cut?

Where the seal rides on the frum hub....thst surface is slightly tapered.. Hopefully it is not too severely worn or grooved. A very poor design IMO. Glad they improved the design in 1946.

Leave one FD nut on one stud loose... Use a foot or longer steel flat pry bar. Wedge the FD rearward...wedging between the bell housing opening and the FD front face. It should/will pop loose. The nut is used to stop it from falling off the crank and killing you. You do not remove the FD clutch driven plate just to remove the FD coupling...not necessary.

That's excellent update news. You will like shifting that 2 speed axle now that it's working like it should. Wish I was closer...I'd love to see and drive that fire truck! I had Big Red out a couple weeks ago..

The graphite carbon ring has probably cracked and or the copper accordian bellows. The job is relatively easy with the factory Miller tools. I have done quite a few when I was working...not anymore. I would not let anyone cut the FD open. They don't need to to replace the seals as long as the deep inner seal surface is not pitted or the surface not flat. If the FD is cut open and re-welded you will most likely end up with some vibration. It cannot be cut open and welded back up as a typical converter. No accurate solid centering hub on the output side of the FD unit.

A rare factory dually 126"wb 1 ton express...

Well optioned truck..good big one to restore.

I like that yellow COE...

Ever seen water get pulled way up a leaking low slope roof ? Capillary attraction between layers of roofing. Could happen to a porous casting.

Yeah that is the stock correct P23 vacuum advance line. It is supposed to go over the head as shown. It's never been bent out of original shape either. Fuel line looks OE too.

The seal shown is the only seal... There is only an extremly strong bottoming/over travel diaphram spring behind the snap ring and washer in the barrel part...

AFAIK the seal is inside that housing the shift rod operates in and out of. There is a snap ring to get into it....but if you get into trouble guessing on trying to get at a seal you might end up pulling the 400lb diff out!😫 Clean it up and run it....had a lot of 80/140 gear oil in it!

There shouldn't be any oil on the axle vacuum side. I have never taken apart the shifter shaft and sleeve assembly in one of these Timkin rear ends. I'm sure there are one or more oil seals in there. No service information anywhere that I could find. The rear end pictured pictured above worked flawlessly with the oil in it. Shifted great. I was suprised to find the oil in it.

And with the upper line 131" WB New Yorker and Imperial power brakes were std. Power steering and windows plus a real torque converter were optional starting in 1951. I had a Fluid Torque Drive Saratoga. It was easy to smoke the tires from a dead stop in that short WB Windsor. I have also had a couple of the upper line 51-52 New Yorker and short WB Imperials. Luxurious cars.

I doubt Whitepost could supply or replace the diaphragm. The diaphragm's and base mount were sold as a complete assembly...no separate parts from MoPar. This is what the leaky situation probably will be....there is a very strong spring in that vacumn chamber.... Once the 1/2" nut in the hole of the outer cover and the 12 screws holding the diaphram are removed....those parts are likely to go flying. Use two 2" long safety screws to control the cover and diaphragm's gradual release off the shifter rod.

There should be no oil getting into the rubber shift diaphram. It will cause damage the hose and to diaphram. There is no servicable seal in the shift rod. I have never had that rod apart or seen a seal in it. If there is excessive oil and it has damaged that diaphram you have a bug priblem. I definately would check the shifter rubber diaphram for oil contamination and possible swelling or splits. A compromised rubber diaphram will cause axle shifting trouble...which you have had trouble with. You might want to remove the 12 screws to be able to be sure that diaphram has no holes or cracks from oil damage. It might be A-ok too.

$45.00 is cheap for a good quality MoPar to bearing. Chinese bearings are garbage. Buy the $45.00 bearing if it is the correct one.

MoPar started posting maximum drum oversize's around 1956... I know most drums machining limit is at .060" OS. A maximum safe cut on the drum lathe bit is at .030" ....means the drum ends up at .060". But I also know some late 50's model Chrysler 12" drums are spec'd at a max drum oversize of .090". Shown is a MoPar pic of some center plane brakes maxed at .060" oversize cut. Anything over .060" will require over size linings for proper shoe arc'ing and long lining life. More meat on the drums is a good thing.?

Did your machist fab up a torque plate for honing the block? Wonder how much distortion of the cylinder walls will be after the head is torqued. Answer to question # 1....no. It would be a $$$% custom fabrication. I'd assemble and run it. You are digging way to deep IMO. Modern engines....be real careful.

I thought PB was gone....they need to be. Screwd people of millions of pictures if not billions.