Dodgeb4ya

Did you place an ad here? Someone here must have one or can offer some help... Wrecking yards...ebay..m I do not know the difference between the MCH and the MCL starters. Trying to go thru the parts books and Hollander on starters and starter parts differences is endless... I started to but it wasn't any easy fun?

Do just as you stated wiring wise...you don't need the generator or regulator to fire it up...just clean contact points @ .018" - .020". But the fan won't spin if the generator is off the engine...no coolant flow... Don't know what you are doing with the charging system.

Torque to 142lbs...then if necessary to align the nut slots so the cotter pin will fit to axle pin hole....tighten the nut more to align the nut slots to the pin hole....do not back off the slotted castle nut! Always tighten the nut a bit.more to align it.

Yes you could apply low 5-10lbs air pressure to the vacuum line starting at the shift control valve on the firewall. Use a spray bottle will real soapy water and spray complete line with it looking for leakage bubbles. If the factory line has never been cut or modified with poorly done hoses it really should never leak. At the control valventhete is a small 3/16" steel vacuum line leading thru the firewall and onto the speedometer adapter gearbox. I have seen that line on the "B" series trucks get worn through by the firewall metal cutting the line because of vibration. Check that line out too. Should be setup on your "W" truck very similar to the 1948-53 "B" trucks I think. The Dodge truck 2 speed axles are really pretty trouble free and are excellent fast and accurate easy shifting when all is factory installed and no funky repairs to manifold and or any other vacuum lines. The speedo needle should bounce just a bit to match rear axle up/down shifts...that small 3/16" vacuum line supplies vacuum to a small diaphram on the speedo adapter causing the little gear box to do a high/low shift just when the rear axle does.

I went out and looked at my 52 2-1/2 tonner with a Eaton 1350 like you have. The diaphragm assembly is a sealed unit...no backside plug sorry to say. But you can blow very low air pressue say no more than 5-10 lbs into the hose fitting and make sure no air is leaking out the bellows back side. Then at least the diaphragm is good and operating as long as it's flexible enough. It probably is as it shifts at times. If someone operates the shift button you can watch the shifter diaphragm move the rear axle shifter lever as the button is pulled up (low range) and pushed down ( high range). No vacuum tank is used from the factory. There can be no vacuum line/ hose leaks.

I said on the Timkin axle there is a plug on the back side of the shifter housing. But not sure on the Eaton like you have...but I will go out and look at one tomorrow...

1138903 DT ring gear... 146 teeth. 14.640" outside diameter.

I have used my low pressure air hose to to be sure the rear axle shifter diaphragm assembly works...and that the rubber diaphram does not leak. This on the Timkin axles...block thr vacuum inlet port and apply air thru the backside removable plug. The axle shift arm and bellows should apply and release quickly and positively. Probably will work the same on the Eaton 1350 2 speed axles.

The ring gear for all models/tonnages of trucks 1948-1953 are the same part# ....1138903...except the big Moly Block engines. Of course critical the starter pinion gear will extend deep enough into the ring gear...meaning the length of the starter nose cone needs to match what you have...length of my MCH nose from flange mount surface to end tip is 3".

The starter pinion gear has nine teeth on it...I do not have east access to count a light duty truck flywheel...all are on engines...the cars I think are 146 teeth. I think?

Easiest way would be if you can is to use one of the later short starters. Clocking of the nose cone and pedal lever are the issue. Using a short starter would eliminate making an adapter or using a remote filter.

Ok..Here's what I found.. My starters on my trucks and truck engines are all MCL 6103 and 6106. The diameter is 4-1/2" The length from the bell housing mount surface to the brush end plate is 7-1/2" To the end plate bushing protrusion about 8-3/8". The top of the starter to the top machined part of head is right at 6-1/4" There is only about 1/4" clearance between the starter end plate and oil filter. The end plate bushing protrusion is down below the large diameter of the housing. Shown is a picture of the 7-1/2" long MCL 6103 starter as commonly used on the 1949 thru at least 1952 1/2 -2 ton trucks best I could figure out in Hollander's and DT books...gets very complicated. Anyway you have a earlier longer type starter that will not work...bottom line sadly.

I think they should just let you store it at the station to get it going...once running they might be ready to follow through to finish the project. And..... they should gift it to you after all the needed work.? Oh and here's another heavy series fire engine to get excited about... though not for sale...just a old internet pic .

I too would not want to use a crank to start a engine ... too much of a pussy! Don't need any damaged sprained thumbs or wrists.?

Thanks for that pic... I will use that to be sure of placement height of the starter. Your starter looks to be 9-1/2" overall length. face mount surface to the end of starter bushing end plate protrusion.

Tomorrow I'll measure another 265 engine I have and using a DT starter to see how close the two are...

I put a 1954 Chrysler 265 in my 52 Dodge pu in 1973 using the stock 265 oil filter.. The PU has the the stock Dodge 4 speed bell housing and OE starter.... a very close fit ( starter and oil filter) but no issues other than if starter had to be removed. Starter to oil filter clearance was about a 1/2" as I recall. I have since have installed the spin on adapter to simplify oil changes. A pic of a close fitting factory starter on a 53-54 Chrysler

The compression most likely will be fine. A real test is after it has been run for some time. That black/brass ID plate you are looking for is found on the industrial engine apications. .....though the four tiny pre-drilled pin holes for the tag might be there if you look carefully.

Both styles of front crank nuts..

Brent..you are the best at doing what ya gotta do get the big trucks running and back to work! But what about all the squirrels and Western Meadow larks let alone your neighbors...lying on the forest floor gasping for their last breath of air? I have done the same to lube the exhaust system so it won't rust out.?

That engine will fire right up and run perfect with good fuel and ignition. Change the oil and filter too of course. Those Nickel/Chrome Moly Blocks are a whole different breed of engine compared to the smaller 23" and 25" engines. A very heavy duty severe service MoPar flathead weighing 1100 lbs complete with bell housing.

I think you have done good and the MC will work just fine.

Bryan...I am a good person on this board...have spent hundreds of hours over the years posting hopefully helpful information. I have taken hundreds of tech photo's to help people like yourself. Sometimes people just keep asking and wanting more and more and more info. I can be brief at times because of people not taking other avenues at times searching for information...possibly much better info at that. Maybe I am at the end of the road here offering help...you are the first person that has blown up on me... Holy moley....guess my simple direct to the point statement on your cam hub led you to post this...thanks " You're starting to sound like DodgeB4y....."

The real leakage test is checking for slight leakage into the rubber boot after three months or more of use. The leakage can be more when there is no pressure on the piston cups on a honed cylinder. The rubber cup lips are flared out against the cylinder bore when the brakes are applied causing a good cup to cylinder bore seal. When the brakes are sitting released and no extra cup to cylinder pressure...there can be very slight leakage depending on cylinder bore finish and condition.

Here's a pic of a 265 with a spin on filter mount ( minus the filter) showing how close the starter is...