knuckleharley

Keith,I think you pretty much covered this one!

Similar to,but not identical. I switched to15w-40 conventional diesel oil in my stock 51 Ford V-8 engine,ad went from 35 psi at ideal to 5 psi,and from 60 psi at 60 mph,to 40 psi at 60 MPH. Only reason I tried this is it is getting harder to find and buy 30 and 40 wt non-detergent oil.

Why were you surprised? When was the last time a woman took your advise?

You can go to practically any farm tractor or heavy equipment garage and get new hydraulic hoses made to your specifications. Or should be able to,anywhay. After all,if they can make hydraulic hoses for some of the monster bulldozers and combines of today,and wheel cylinder hose for a car shouldn't be a challenge. There is nothing mystical about this crap. It's all about PSI. Just make sure to take your old hose with you when you go in so they can match it perfectly. Call around and ask.

It happens every day. If they use pressure hose,there are no liability issues. Since these people are professions running businesses,they are doing it professionally.

BTW,you can get hoses custom-made for your application locally anywhere in the nation. I've had several made up by a local BIG farmer that does hydraulic and air-conditioner repairs when he isn't farming. Don't remember what the price was on any of them,but I do remember I never had to "grunt" when paying the bill. We need to support these people whenever we can by giving them our business. Works for them,works for us.

I gotta admit,that's a new one on me.

I was at the Vintage Power Wagon site a couple of days ago,and noticed they have some pretty good prices on drop-in filters. They even have used canisters at a pretty decent price for people that want to add an oil filter.

Nope! I believe that is an original color,but not the original paint.

That has to be the shiniest gray car I have ever seen! Were you the one that spent all the hours sanding and buffing it out?

Thank you!

That has to be the cleanest job of routing oil lines and making them seem "factory" that I have ever seen.

Ahhhh,the "magic" of low-compression,low stress engines! I gotta wonder,though.Just how much did a piston cost back then to make all that worthwhile?

You can also buy chrome fender welt,and it really "pops" with dark colors,and IMHO,looks good with paler colors,also.

Thanks!

I'm against it. This is not a contest. You are not trying to pull your drum quicker than someone else to save the world from an alien invasion. Just take your big hammer,smack the dogbone on the puller a few times to snug it up good,and then take your a hammer and tap around the "nose" on the drum and the face of the drum. Tension from the puller and vibrations from the tapping will eventually cause the drum to come off without destroying anything. So what if it takes a few days? We all have other cars or truck to drive to work.

I know I saw photos of 1935 to maybe 1938 Dodge stake trucks in a junk yard that had two carbs and cast iron headers. This was probably 15-20 years ago,I was just assuming they were 251 cubic inch 25 inch long engines. Were such things produced,or was it likely to have been a conversion someone made

I would suggest starting by spraying the hinges with a good lube,and then taking a SOFT pine block and a hammer,and GENTLY tapping it to break the windshield loose. The idea here is to use vibrations to break the seal,not brute force. Once it moves even a eighth of an inch,lube the hinges again as well with spray lube to lube up the new opening as far as possible,and then take the same SOFT wooden block and hammer and GENTLY tap is closed again. If you are having trouble,you can try taking a razor knife and cutting the rubber away from the windshield frame to make it easier. When you have done that,tap it open again. "Patience" and "gently" are the two keywords here. This ain't a contest,and it doesn't even have to be finished today. Repeat until it opens all the way.

Some big Dodge trucks from the mid-30's (2 ton and larger) and later had dual carbs and dual exhausts. Wouldn't they have been 25 inch engines? Good luck finding one in a junkyard these days,though.I did see a setup for sale on ebay a couple of years ago,and the seller wanted "stoopid money" for it.

When they were equipped with the optional oil filter,it went inside a canister bolted to the driver's side of the engine block,slightly above and behind the distributor. Look at the block and you can see the tapped holes to accept the mounting bolts.and the plugs in the block where the oil lines go.

Well,I am assuming there ARE people out there with maybe less bulge in the middle than you or I. And I hate them ALL!

To clarify,when you write "bolted to the block",you mean the housing itself is bolted directly into the block,not just attached to the block by brackets.

Bob,it works great if all you were doing was running a commo check. Arthur

You will have to change the exhaust manifolds and put a thermostat in it,but AFAIK,that's it. Some marine engines have governors on them,but that obviously doesn't apply to that one.

Guys,I understand how and why that method works so well,but it doesn't work at all with cars that don't run or ones with no brakes. Or ones with seized drums from rust.