knuckleharley

In this case it looks like they are going to have to be "line bored" this time. Assuming of course there is enough metal there to bore them that far without entering another time zone. I can't even begin to guess what might have cause the inner bearing surfaces on rods to get chewed up that way.

Well,yeah,ya did. The are lower connecting rod caps. If the bottoms look that bad,I am guessing the rod bearing surfaces on top are going to look less than wonderful,too. We are having a failure to communicate here. The rod bearing fit insider the rods and the bearing are what ride directly on the crankshaft. Although looking at your,it looks like someone may have forgotten to put rod bearing in there. More reason to get a pro-engine shop to mic the crank. Sounds like it has been turned,and without micking it,you have no idea what since "under" bearings you need to buy for it.

In this case,you will be measuring the outside diameter of the cranshaft bearing surfaces. For that you will need an "outside" micrometer and "standard" which is used to set the mircometer to insure accurate measurements. BTW,they won't be "metrics". They will be inch readings. Get a Motors Auto Repair Manual that covers the 1949,and it will tell you everything you need to know about measurements,ranges,and how to make them. Best damn money you will ever spend when it comes to old cars. Nope. "Micrometers",not gauges. Buy them in inch standard,not metric. Ok,there are two ways to go here. One is with an inside micrometer,and the other is with an adjustable bore gauge to be used with an outside micrometer of the approrpraite size. Either way,it starts to get a little pricey when you start buying inside mics with that kind of range. Especially when you consider you will probably never use them again. And good luck finding used ones. Ok,that is another barrel of snakes,and a very important one. Get the numbers that are stamped on the raised pad of the engine block,and post there here som someone can correctly indentify the engine and cubic inch displacement for you. You don't want to spent a lot of money buying parts that won't fit your engine. In FACT,do not buy ANY internal engine parts yet because you don't know what you will need. My best advise to you is to spend NO money on speciality items like micrometers at this time. You don't know how to use them,and if you did use them,you don't know enough about it to understand what you need to do with the readings you get. Instead,find a reputable machine shop that rebuilds engines in your local area,and take your engine to them,drop it off,and tell you you want a list of the repairs it needs including parts and labor,as well as an estimate on when the work would be completed. This is not rocket science,but it is kinda "inside baseball" stuff,and you can waste a ton of money and still end up with junk if you don't know what you are doing. After all,why waste a couple of hundred bucks on specialty tools and gauges if you probably never use them again,and you can spend that money buying new parts or paying for professional machinging services instead? If you do want to learn this stuff,get the car you own now running up and down the road safely and reliably,and THEN buy another old car as a "hobby/project car" to mess around with and learn on. While you are doing that,you will have THIS car up and running to enjoy and inspire you! Do NOT let yourself get overpowered and bogged down in details you don't understad,and risk losing interest to the point the car never gets back on the road again. I have seen that happen doezens of times. Get one old car fixed and driving so you can enjoy it,and THEN get a project car you can learn to fix cars on.

I gotta admit,when I saw the first photo of that rod bearing surface,I had to flinch. What did the bearings look like? Have you miked the crank to see if they were the right size?

I suspect the original hole is a drain hole so oil will leak out instead of saturating the clutch plate in case of a rear main leak.

When *I* hear a high-pitched whistle,I always look for a vacuum leak.

That looks seriously good! How much would your mom charge to do one for me like that?

Other than "magic",I have no freaking idea how people do that.

I think you should give it to me. Just a suggestion to try to make your life more pleasant,boss!

MY best advise,and worth every nickel it cost you is "IF the original engine is still in it and it is rebuidable,rebuild the damn thing and be done with it." Chances are it will cost you more to buy a USED replacement V-8,the adaptors,the new exhaust,new wiring,convert to 12 volt,maybe a new radiator,new driveshaft,etc,etc,etc as it would to do a standard rebuild of the original flat 6,and when you are done you have a modified car that will probably be harder to sell and sell for less if you ever want to get rid of it. Remember,even though it is a antique/old car today,when it was new,it was built to drive at highway speeds on modern highways. It's not like it's a 1931 something. Since it is all original,keep it all original and just enjoy driving the damn thing and showing people how they "used to be made". I suspect you might be surprised at how pleasant they are to drive.

Congradulations! You had the good sense to find and buy one that seems to have nothing missing. You have no idea yet what an advantage that really is.

Northeastern NC. Rural area.

Then you are in luck! My personal experience is they ALWAYS want something.

It really isn't a problem IF you have the right puller,and a little patience. It's just more difficult than pulling the typical modern rear brake drum. BTW,I saw where you asked about lubing the axle end. No,you don't want to lube it,but you do want to inspect it carefully for dings,rust,and any other problems it might have before you put the drum back on. A LITTLE bit of polishing with an emery cloth if it is rough/pitted can be a big help when you go to pull it the next time. You are NOT looking for a "chrome-like" finish. You are looking for smooth with no burrs. Same with the inside of your drum where it slides over the axle. Check it for smoothness,also. BTW,30's Fords are afflicted with the same problem. Last pair of those suckers I pulled were on a 37 pu that seems to have spend several years in a stream bed before I got it. When I finally did get the drums off,they were too pitted to use. No real surprise. I bought it for nothing money to basically get the good serial number off the chassis. Sold the front axle for more than I paid for the truck.

THAT is the sort of thing that makes this board so special. I have seen offers like this,as well as free parts offered to other Mopar fans on this board fairly often,and I have NEVER seen it on any other antique auto board. Not even once. Good on you,Merle! If you ever happen to be within 200 miles of where I live and have some sort of mechanical problem,send me a PM. I check the board every day.

I think he either got the message garbled,or his mechanic has never seen or worked on cars with tapered rear axles and drums held in place by the taper.

He didn't say it was while braking,and it SEEMED to me he was saying it pulls to the side all the time. Which is usually a bent tie rod or some other steering part gone wrong. Yeah,it IS a result of bad alignment,but the bad alignment is caused by the damaged or worn parts.

I'm with kencombs. Find a mechanic that is familiar with these tapered axle drum and their removal. No big deal IF you have the proper puller AND the patience to allow pressure to do it's work,AND you loosen the nuts and pins (been so long I have forgotten the exact setup) on the rear backing plate,and then put pressure on your puller and smack the sides of the drums smartly all the way around. Remember,it is VIBRATIONS that break the rust/dirt/crud seal,NOT brute force. Chances are the rear drums are not going to come of easily,or even on the same day you start,but with pressure and patience they WILL come off without breaking anything. If I were you,I would go ahead and budget new wheel cylinders,new hoses,a new mastercylinder,and copper/steel brake lines while you are messing with it. NOTHING is as important on your car as good brakes and good steering. Spend the money now while you have it apart,and you will never regret it.

Damn,but that's a pretty one. Chanes are a front end alignment will take care of the "pulling problem",but IF the problem is related to some part of the steering sector being damaged or worn out,you need to replace that part NOW. This would be MY number 1 priority if I were you. Number two would be getting the entire brake system rebuilt. Safety is everything,including economincal.

Learn something new every day. Thanks!

I just checked the listed 6 volt pumps in the Summit Racing online catalogue and didn't see the Airtex listed,but I did see this one. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gmb-599-1380 Brand: GMB North America Manufacturer's Part Number: 599-1380 Part Type: Fuel Pumps Summit Racing Part Number: GMB-599-1380 UPC: 083286195233 GMB North America 599-1380 View All Media $24.99 I strongly suggest if you prefer an airtex to call them or send them an email asking about parts and availibility on other 6 volt electric fuel pumps.

I don't know if I can recommend them or not beause they are the only brand of aftermarket electric fuel pumps I have ever used,but I bought 2 from Summit Racing for my two 51 Fords,and believe I paid 36 bucks each for them. Being more than a little anal and a little paranoid,I also bought in-line adjustable fuel pressure regulators even though the fuel pumps only pump MAYBE 6 PSI at peak pumping. I just like to KNOW what is going on. Summit Racing can give you more info on them. They are standard items there,so should be easy to find. The fuel pressure gauges are just me being anal. Most people probably don't feel the need for them with standard low pressure pumps,but like I said above,I tend to be a little obsessive about items that MIGHT cause the base to flood with gas,or an engine fire under the hood. Had a underhood engine fire with my P-15 coupe due to a backfire while driving down the road ,and don't recommend the experience to anyone. BTW,in that case,the modern OHV engine was running the stock mechanical fuel pump.

I use Indian Head,too. Same reason. I am a big believer in the theory that says "If it ain't broke,don't fix it."

What Oldguy48 said. If you plan on driving a old 6 volt car or truck in the winter in the Great Frozen North,plan on either converting the starting system (at a minimum) to 12 volt,or keep your AA card handy for rollback rides home. Even WHEN you get it to start,it's going to scare you before it happens. Do yourself a favor and save yourself the stress. Go 12V on the starting system and be done with it.

If it doesn't also remove rust,it doesn't count.