knuckleharley

Thanks for the tip! I did not know that.

BTW,I bought mine from Summit Racing for less than 40 bucks. Airtex E8902 for 6 volt. If you convert to 12 volt,your car will obviously need a 12 volt fuel pump.

Being familiar with FI systems,you need to understand that the process of starting one of these old cars "cold" is not as simple. You need to use the manual choke and to pump the HELL out of the accelerator pedal to get enough gas to the engine. Truthfully,my best advise to you is to install a 6 volt electric fuel pump near your gas tank to avoid all that hassle. This will eliminate all that pumping. I prefer to have a dash swith on mine to cut it on and off,but I still use the stock mechanical fuel pump for driving.

One of these days I'm going to be smart enough to buy cars that look that good! Honest! Maybe.

Hard to beat Chuck Berry.

I used to run a 1-3/4 inch SU on my chopped 40 Harley knucklehead,and neve had any trouble with it. Bike had .060 over 10 to 1 panhead pistons in it,Chevy valves in the head,and a complete 38 Knucklehad factory "Lightening" racing valve train. With the solo seat and a peanut tank,that thing would FLY!

These old 6 volt cars cranked slowly,and the carbs would run dry after sitting for a while,so when someone went to start one like that,they would take the air cleaner off to pour gas down the carb and hand choke it so they didn't have to spin the engine and run the battery down. After doing this,they often left the air cleaner off to make it quicker to start it the next time.

There had to be ferrys running back and forth between there and the mainland,so why would you think you car wasn't there? BTW,very pretty car!

I kinda,vaguely,sorta think I remember seeing these or something similar on exhaust manifolds a long,long time ago. I THINK they screwed onto studs,and then the "ears" folded over the nut holding the stud in to lock it in place. If I were you,I wouldn't bet any money on it,though.

Thanks! I love the sound of the cast iron ones over the tubular steel ones.

Hope you plan on using the copper/nickel brake lines. They don't crack from vibration or bending,and they don't rust inside or outside. The inside rust you can't see is the one that worries me.

Spray them with a sealer.

I am eaten alive with envy!

I see nothing at all wrong with the factory split manifolds if you are talking about the ones that came on the big Dodge trucks. My dislike for split manifolds is that you are destroying a set of rare exhaust manifolds when you do it,and "they ain't making them anymore". Don't get me wrong,I would happily buy a pair someone else split in the past if the work looked good and the price were right,but *I* won't be cutting up a good exhaust manifold or two to get "there" myself. Been looking for one for my flat Ford now for years. Sooner or later I will run into someone that has one that is looking for a stock exhaust manifold for a restoration,or I will just break down and make tubular headers. Right now I am still driving the car,and have no intention of taking it apart until I already have every part I think I am going to need sitting in my shop floor. The funny part is people keep trying to buy it off me because they love the "rat look",which I acheived by sanding away all visable rust and paint over the spots with whatever paint I had handy in rattle cans. This is sorta what I want it to look like when done,but with full moon disc hubcaps and door handles.

Thanks! I knew they were selling cast iron duals,but the word "Stovebolt" that is alway connected to them threw me off enough I never bothered to check them out. Wish they were a little cheaper,but Oh,well! Will be trying to fit a set into my budget in April. Thanks again!

UPDATE on glove box. I thought some of you might be interested in this due to the courtesy and the quick reply to my question from Collectors Auto Supply,Inc. They look like the kind of people I want to do business with,if possible. " Hi Arthur, From what I have been able to find this glove box should be able to fit your Dodge, but I have reached out to the manufacturer to confirm. Once I hear back from the manufacturer with the schematics I will send them to you, so that you are able to double-check the fitment on your truck prior to ordering. Let us know if you have any other questions, and we will be happy to help you! Thanks, Michael - collectorsautosupplyinc"

If you happen to have a set of the cast iron dual exhaust manifolds,I might be interested in buying them for either the 23 inch or the 25 inch engines. I plan on putting a 230 in my 33 Dodge 4dr,and a 251 DeSoto in my 42 Dodge coupe and I prefer cast iron over tube headers.

Thanks,going there now,and will update you all when and if I find the right glovebox. BTW,they only have one listing for all 36-38 Dodge trucks,so it looks like I have a winner,thanks to you! Not only that,but it is less than half the price of the one on ebay. I have sent them an email to verify it fits my truck,and will update the board when I get the answer

Who is DCM,and what is their phone number? I,too,suspect they are the same,but I have been wrong with my "suspects" so often I have lost faith in them.

Thanks! Looks like I go back to looking for a glove box for a MD,and hope my truck was originally a 37 like the title said,instead of a 38. The body was sitting on a 72 F-250 Chassis when I bought it,and I suspect you all know about some of the title problems that pop up in some states due to clueless butthole inspectors. Had a hell of a time getting it registered,and ended up with an entirely new number unique to NC because the butthole inspector "lost" the 72 title as well as the 37 title,along with the other paperwork from the Virginia DMV. Had trouble with this same cretin getting a NC title for my 51 biz coupe. The numbers on the 51 bodies are stamped on the passenger side of the firewall instead of the drivers side,like the 49's and 50's,so he was refusing to recognize my title. He even insisted I remove the radiator so he could verifiy the "secret number" stamped in the front crossmember. I then handed him the Ford factory manual that shows where the factory numbers are stamped,and he refused to accept that as proof,so I told him to kiss my big red ass because I wasn't pulling my driving car apart to please some ignorant ass that doesn't know how to read,and that if THIS title got lost or I didn't get a new one from NC with the right numbers on it,I WOULD be driving to Raleigh to the DMV there,and knocking on his bosses door to raise hell about him. He agreed he would send it forward and give it a "try".and I got my new clean 51 Ford title in a few weeks later. Everybody has trouble with this SOB. He is the "slow child" of a prominent political family,so his daddy got him lined up with a state job even a cretin could hold on to. Don't know if I will have trouble with him again or not the next time I apply for a new title,but my patience with this fool is GONE and I WILL be getting in his face if he gets pushy,and his Glock doesn't impress me at all.

If it ain't broke,don't fix it.

Yes,unless you like the idea of spun bearings and having your crank turned and turned appeals to you. You also don't want to deal with the problem of a crankcase full of gas dissolving decades of non-detergent oil crud,and releasing it to flow through your oil system until it blocks oil flow. Costs practially nothing to change oil now and then see if the problem re-occurs,and can cost a considerable amount if you don't.

Don may be "gone",but he will be with us in spirit and tech tips forever.

I have never had one in my truck to use as a model,and am trying to get the truck back on the road ASAP withough cutting corners. I see new ones with metal inserts for the screws available on ebay for 74 bucks including shipping,and I can't have one made that cheap. My problem is they are listed for RC and MC 1937-39 Dodge trucks only,and I have no freaking idea what the code is for my truck. If it is RC or MC,I am golden,and will order one immediately. If not,I am going to have to find out what the code IS for my truck,and keep looking.

I dunno about that. My 51 Victoria and my 51 Ford biz coupe both still have their original cardboard glove boxes in them.