JBNeal

The original draft tube setup isn't the most effective way to vent crankcase gases, but other restorers have had success in installing a positive crankcase ventilation system that cleans up the engine compartment nicely... additional information - partial PCV system install

Just my 2 cents, but clean up + neutralize the rust on that harmonic balancer, use a cutoff disc to trim any extraneous rubber, fill in the rubber gaps with epoxy RTV, trim the cured epoxy RTV flush with the metal, prime + paint black, install

I'm guessing you're getting oil blowing out of the draft tube and/or oil filler tube vent cap, this sounds like combustion chamber blowby gases...might be time for a rebuild, ya want to check engine compression next to verify...

I believe pinion nut tightness is defined as pre-load, which is spec'd out in the manual along with backlash...these carriers do not have a crush collar but do have carrier bearing adjusters. I did my first differential rebuild on the '48, basically took it all apart, cleaned and inspected everything to find only needed a new pinion seal, then put it all back together following the shop manual...only special tools I needed were an in-lb beam torque wrench and a dial indicator, plus a firm work surface to set everything, used a big pipe wrench to hold the pinion yoke in place while adjusting the pinion nut. Getting the teeth contact pattern right with the adjusters while maintaining backlash was the most tedious part of the process, I used ground up old yellow crayons to show the gear meshing but there are other ways to do that thanks to other guys' experiences on the internets...the only thing I oiled was the pinion shaft so I wouldn't damage the pinion seal, everything else was dry more or less to get accurate measurements. I'd suggest leaving it all together, run compressed air through the bearings and turn the pinion for a few minutes, blowing out the bearings occasionally, and see if the dry bearings loosen up a bit...then check preload, backlash and the gear contact pattern, adjust as required

The driveshaft travel can be estimated by using some strings laid out on the frame and a plumb bob. For this, a plumb bob can be made from a big hex nut with a string tied around it, located directly above the pinion yoke. The axles travel vertically, so the pinion yoke travel can be approximated by a vertical line...the highest point of the pinion yoke can be calculated as approximately the centerline of the axle's distance from the frame. The plumb bob string denoting the pinion yoke travel can be marked with an alligator clip to approximate the highest point the pinion yoke travels. This point represents also the center of the u-joint; now a measurement can be made from the transmission yoke...this might be a method that doesn't require safety glasses or touch up paint

the hole diameter on the combustion chamber side of the head is about 3/16"...I drilled and tapped a hole in more than one exhaust manifold upstream of expensive turbochargers for temperature probes, each time I used the grease-on-the-drill-bit-and-tap trick...also had a telescoping magnet in very close proximity to catch any metal that went astray, as well as jabbing down in the hole and cleaning until I stopped pulling shavings out. Since you can pull a spark plug out for more access to #6 cyl, you can also do this with a magnet to get any shavings. You can wrap some tape, sticky side out, on the end of a stick and swab out the cylinder, even blast some compressed air in there to flush out any crud... With reference to the pulley timing marks, I only used the TDC mark to estimate TDC, then verified TDC with piston location and valve operation, to set oil pumps and distributors. Once that was squared away, I haven't really needed to look at the timing marks again...

It's easier to get everything timed to specs now, you may need that adjustment window to be wide enough to accommodate your performance tuning needs... The timing stamp is weak on every crank pulley I've seen, but I believe TDC major line is bracketed on either side by zeros then a major line on both ends, with 2 minor lines between each major character... I measured the distance from leaf spring to frame where you measured 7-1/2", on the B-1-B-108, B-1-D-126, B-3-D-126, and B-4-B-116, and saw 5-3/4" to 6". I had taken the '48 1/2-ton to Waco Spring back in 2000 as the left front of the truck was riding low...those magicians re-arched the springs to 6" without removing them from the truck...them old guys weren't much for talking, so I don't know how they did that as I couldn't find any witness marks on the truck anywhere, it's like they drove the truck into their shop while I was at work and *PRESTO* it was done by lunchtime...maybe you have access to magicians just as talented in your neck of the woods

I believe that the rule of thumb is that the bottom of the running board should not be lower than the center of the front hub...

while doing research, I found a replacement option that might be a viable alternative to the shot-in-the-dark of buying used radiators...while studying my spares, I noticed one of them might have core damage that is irreparable, and I'm positive I bought that one on eBay over 10 years ago...d'ohhhhhh... anyways, it looks like US Radiator has a decent replacement that should fit nicely...they have several models to choose from, although I believe these should also work for 1-ton models as well. They aren't giving them away, but these are new not refurbished radiators with warranties, so that could be a viable solution to a replacement need

additional information - Flathead Six Engine Numbers

the damage in the pictures is less than what I had and them guys were able to patch it up no problem...since the hole was over the pickup tube, I was able to give it a good inspection and they knew how to deal with that too...as far as cost, I think it was $300 back in '96, which fixed my original tank as the only options back then were other tanks with pinholes at the perimeter seam or make something else fit. Tanks Inc. has a tank that is close in size, but I do not believe it is coated so it could be prone to corrosion, plus brackets have to be fabricated for proper installation. At a minimum, get in contact with Renu and Tanks Inc. to get some estimates from them and you could make a more informed decision...I am glad I spent some serious $$$ on the tank, brakes, distributor, etc. years ago, because I was able to get quality that has lasted going on 2+ decades, and if I spread the upfront cost over that kind of timeframe, I ultimately saved a bundle from not having to do the same repair multiple times. At any rate, you've got plenty of work to get to before the tank becomes an issue to deal with...I sent mine off early in the restore cuz I was still in college at the time, I recall sending it off on a trip home for Spring Break, and got it back by Memorial Day

I started by searching the internets with the mopar parts numbers and was able to locate replacement lug studs and lug nuts at Van Horn Truck Parts...ya might have similar luck

what's wrong with the gas tank? I had one with a hole the size of a pie plate in the top, sent if off to get Renu'd and it hasn't leaked a drop in 20+ years...

Since this is flat glass, an estimate can be made by cutting some cardboard to fit...glass should be 1/4" thick...

I inherited Dad's '01 Ram 2500 QuadCab last year and have had H-E-double hockey sticks with the brakes, basically cuz the truck sat in a barn for 10 years...malfunctioning remanufactured hydroboost units, leaking new hoses, cracked reman.calipers, now intermittent sticking rear brakes...I've sunk over 135 hours into this beast and I still don't know if it'll pass inspection in a few weeks...I thought I was paying for quality parts, but it has really been a carp shoot trying to deal with the random ABS warning light, and this is for a modern truck that sold in big numbers and that has only been out of production for less than 2 decades...I shudder to think what's happening with replacement parts' quality for the low volume market of antique vehicles...I kinda gave up on getting help from the auto parts stores back in the 90s, but if the specialty suppliers are becoming a dead end, then we are on our own to supply part numbers, specs, etc...except we have the internets and online forums now, to share information, develop long-distance relationships, and exchange ideas to keep these machines alive for future generations... I know where there is a nice collection of parts books at a local parts store that closed around 2000, but the relatives who inherited the place are not interested in selling anything piecemeal, nor are they interested in driving up 2 hours to open the place up for anyone to purchase large lots of stuff for cash...I peek thru the filthy windows every few months and notice that stuff is disappearing, so someone is systematically cleaning the place out...my fear is that all of them parts books on the counter, chock full of notes made by the previous owner, are gonna end up in the dumpsters when nobody is looking ☹

I have to agree with DC about torquing by feel, it's how I was taught...with practice you can tell when helical lock washers have flattened and that's when the +1/4 turn is added. Now if you're looking for Destiny, there seems to be one in every town...but one man's Destiny could be another man's disaster, especially if ya get caught watching the paint dry ?

Hey Stwve...it is possible that t-stat was mis-boxed, give NAPA THM 155 another shot...I recently ordered a hydroboost for my '01 Ram 2500 and got the right box but a hydroboost for a '96 which looks identical except the firewall seal is different...returned + reordered and the correct box + part showed up...sometimes ppl make misteaks

I've had older mechanics tell me that if it isn't spelled out in the shop manual, then torque bolts hand tight +1/4 turn, which should be about 30-35 ft.lb...screws smaller than 1/4" should be finger tight + 1/4 turn max or they'll strip faster than a girl named Destiny

Allen Parkhurst's and grey beard's notes on wiring harnesses additional information - Modified Wiring Diagram with Headlight Relays + Turn Signals if you are dedicated to 12V conversion, might as well size the wiring for the loads...applying Ohm's Law, this doubled voltage increase reduces the current by half; ergo, the wire diameter can be reduced by half...this should give a lighter weight wiring harness, and cost a little bit less $$$. From one of the wire gauge charts I found online, the 16ga can be replaced with 22ga, but I wouldn't recommend going any smaller than 18ga for durability. So I reckon the original 6V 16ga, 14ga and 12ga can be replaced with 12V 18ga; the 10ga can be replaced with 16ga, etc.

Reading between the lines is becoming a lost art...CHS accepts a bill of sale with a serial number and signature of the previous owner as proof of ownership, so I was able to produce one for each truck as required, made a grainy copy of each at the library, and stuck'm in the mail with a handwritten request...

Yep there should be a cork or rubber gasket that seals the distributor shaft bore... I was doing some research and noted that the search term Permatex yields a lot of interesting information, going back for years, on products, alternatives, applications, limitations, insights etc...as far as specifics, I do not recall a checklist but all I know is be aware of the water jacket and oil gallery locations and that'll give ya an idea of what bolt needs what sealant and where applied

RE: Proof of Ownership I received 7 build cards from the CHS a few weeks ago, and in each case, I submitted a bill of sale with the truck serial number. These bills of sale all had signatures from the previous owners with dates of the original transactions, some over 10 years ago...I say signatures because of the runaround I endured trying to secure a lost title for my '49 1-ton that involved my county registrar's office, the area TXDoT ofc, TX DPS, my insurance company, and a dubious automotive appraiser...along the way, I had a DPS detective explain how the auto title system is supposed to work, and finally a knowledgeable clerk at TXDoT (a rare breed indeed) clued me in on the paperwork. She splained to me the form I needed to fill out, and said multiple times that she just needed to see a signature on the previous owner's line, because when it comes to the low-volume of antique vehicles compared to modern vehicles that are more subject to theft and fraud, the state only wants to collect taxes on them...I've had the conversation on a few occasions about documentation validity, but the bottom line is whose requirements are ya trying to satisfy when the burden of proof is only looking for a signature to obtain a document confirming ownership on a transaction that was not witnessed first-hand by a state employee attached to the governing agency...in the case of the Chrysler Historical Society, they do not know if you sold your pride and joy to your neighbor for $10 on Arbor Day 22 yrs ago to satisfy the terms of a bar bet, then bought it back from him for $15 after a wild weekend of tree planting, as long as his signature is on a bill of sale with the serial number and dated accurately, the CHS views that bill of sale as proof of ownership...if that neighbor is not available for confirmation cuz he's taking a dirt nap 5 counties over is immaterial...the signed bill of sale + possession of property are considered adequate proof of ownership unless a valid title exists that contradicts information on the bill of sale, but as far as I know, the CHS is not interested in arbitration of some kind of ownership settlement, just supplying build card information

additional information - Head Stud P#s.

the polite answer is "too long and too much"

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