andyd

That looks very nice, a credit to your stiching skill......I'd be happy to have it.........andyd

I ran a wanted advert for a Poly intake manifold for a month or so on here & wasn't asked for any card details.........but I must admit getting the advert on was a little convalooted..........don't know how to explain what I did as I'm not sure what I did......lol...............andyd

Wern't Powerflites air cooled anyway?.........no expert tho'...........andyd

Don't have the dimensions but heres some pics.....I had these shocks but their number is unknown..........heres a couple of pics of the brackets, yep they are hoemade.........will see what I can find re the shocks.........andyd

Yep, thats what I thought as well......andyd

Best bet would be to use the complete 360 engine & trans......trying to adapt the original trans maybe possible but whether the Wilcap or similar adaptor will work between the 360 & Powerflite or manual maybe a moot point......the crank flange / flywheel/ flexplate /torque convertor interface is a dogs breakfast........use the complete engine/trans....only issue then is steering column /box clearance and the lack of a parking brake.........lol........regards from Oz.........andyd

The reason the 1940 Plymouth is not shown as an interchange is that the 1940 "technically" is not a direct interchange........however the 1941 onwards upper A arms will swap onto the 1940 upper inner pivot pin but in doing so the 1941 onwards upper rebound rubber must be used...........an "Interchange Manual" in my understanding only shows those parts that are a direct swap without any alteration or subsequent need for another swap..........me, being a hotrodder makes up my own mind how, when or why a part will fit...........lol.........I built my car long before I'd even heard of an interchange manual.......tho' I do have a complete photocopy of the Auto Interchange Systems 1950-65 Chrysler Products Interchange Manual, all 176 pages of it.....lol.............andyd

Dunno if this helps but I used Moog Cast steel 1941-1954/56 upper A Arms, stock 1940 lower A arms, stock 1940 Plymouth(Oz Dodge) spindles(uprights) with 1941-1954/56(Oz Chrysler1962 ) stub axles.......I used the 1940 spindles as they have the lower shock mount and lower sway bar mount built into them and stock 1940-56 (Oz up to 1962) king pins......have been running this setup since the mid 1970's........see pic...........here in Oz we had a Chrysler Royal which was a rebodied 1954 Plymouth sold up to 1962 which was what I used in 1973 when I hotrodded my 1940 Oz Dodge(Plymouth based here).................regards from Oz..........andyd

Sounds like the "Tack Strip" that you are describing, can't be certain as I've only seen Oz made cars but here these tack strips were made from a paper like material that was compacked into a length that was then held into the channel by folded over metal fingers..........the roof lining was nailed to this stuff by small nails or tacks...........I found lengths of a neoprene product that was the right thickness & width that I screwed into the channel and is soft enough to take the small tacks that hold the windlacing around the door.........found this at the local hardware store, not sure what its original use is or was.........andyd

Rich, good info............I've always prepacked those kingpin bearings prior to installation.....just a good procedure rather than relying on grease to make its way there.......interesting that skimming the shoes corrected the issue.........regards from Oz.......andyd

Ain't it so much fun playing with old cars.....lol.........regards from Oz........andyd

Any pre WW2 Volkswagen would be quite rare & multiple $$$$$..........the engine cover stamping is what gave the VW origins away for me........yeh, I'd actually prefer a Type 57 Bugatti tho' I do have a Type 50 DOHC Straight 8......1/8th scale unfortunately.........lol...........andyd

Not a lot............the "best" replacement I have seen in 50 yrs playing with my 1940 Dodge was the complete replacement from the firewall forward with rectangular tube then either a Mustang 2 or better still, XJ6/12 jaguar complete front suspension/steering BUT either of these two involve a LOT of work & fabrication........I've had my 1940 Dodge since 1971, in 1973 I installed a 318 Poly & cast iron Torqueflite.........and over a couple of years I updated the front end/suspension & steering.........from the late 70's its used a 9" narrowed Austin 1800 rack & pinion, home brewed Valiant/Alloy tube steering column, Oz PBR 11" vented disc brakes, firewall mounted booster & dual circuit master cylinder, 1941-54 Moog cast iron upper control arms, stock 1940 lower control arms, stock 1940 spindles, 1941-54(actually 1962 Australian Chrysler Royal) Stub axles, a 1" thick adjustable Heim jointed sway bar with nylon bushes and relocated upper shock mounts.........it handles & steers o/k .........if I was doing it again......well I'm 70 now so that won't happen.........lol..........I was 17 when I bought the car, 19 when I hotrodded it......lol...........anyway heres a couple of pics..........regards from Australia......Andy Douglas

Mezz...........that looks like a neat 40 Dodge........any more info?..........thanks, andyd

Here in Oz the firewall/cowl was imported but everything from the windscreen back whether a 4dr sedan or long wheelbase 7 passenger sedan would have been made here in Oz by T J Richards, the Adelaide South Australia based company that Chrysler bought and became Chrysler Australia. I have seen a couple of 7 passenger sedans yrs ago in an old wrecking yard south of Sydney, NSW, whilst the yard had had a fire through it in the 1970's these three 1937/38 7 passenger sedans appeared to be ex taxis or holiday coaches...........unfortunately this wrecking yard was cleared out in the early 1980's and all cars crushed.....my oz 1940 Dodge Sales Brochure actually has a 1940 Dodge 7 passenger sedan pictured....its an odd illustration as it shows the car with proper USA Dodge fenders & headlight surrounds but Plymouth rumpers & overiders.......those USA Fenders & headlight surrounds were very rare on the Oz cars & I've only seen 1 car in 50 yrs with them.......andyd

Kridgely.......did you end up getting those 2 chrome pieces for the passenger side under the hood?..........dunno why I missed your request of nearly 3 yrs ago but I should be able to help if you still need them....let me know, I have a few spare that I can post to you gratis.........my direct email is scaleautomobilia@yahoo.com regards Andy Douglas

Got to be a rare car now, as for the interchange, I'd think that the front & rear fenders, hood, maybe front doors would swap with a 4dr Dodge......I'd have thought that the actual body shell would/could be the same as the DeSoto/Chrysler Limo......but maybe not........I'm amazed at where the rust out is appearing.......where did it live?.........andyd

Welcome aboard from Oztralia.......these guys know their stuff........looking forward to pics of your car.......regards from oz,Andyd

The main things that wear on our 40's mopars are the inner & outer tie rod ends, left & right threaded on each side of the pitman arm.....the pitman arm is held onto the sector/pitman shaft via internal/external splines & a large nut, if its tight then nothing will "wear" there, apart from the tie rod ends.........the other things that wear on our mopars are the kingpins & bushes and the upper outer & lower outer pins & bushes............the inner upper & inner lower pins & bushes seem to show a lot less wear than the other parts mentioned but will show wear depending on the age & use of the car......I'd replace the tierod ends first as they are also generally the easiest to get to.........note where the thread is into the tubular tierod and compare the old tierod end to the new one, screw into the tierod the same distance and you may not need to get a wheel alignment if you are careful & accurate..........another thing that should be looked at if the steering is vague is the steering box rubber isolator between the box & frame and also on the outside of the frame between the triangular three bolted plate & the frame........the isolator is in 2 parts, an inner & an outer and uses some metal stamped steel washer like things to help locate it.......don't throw these washer things away as I don't think they are reproduced..............regards from Oz.......and I've been using Bernbaums since the mid 1980's and have always found them to be fair.............andyd

Nice to hear from you again, I've always enjoyed your posts & the car looks just as nice.......regards from Oztralia..........andyd

Should we assume that the flathead V8 is a Ford Flathead?........if so then you won't really achieve much of an improvement over the flathead mopar six or eight and to be honest your installation probably won't impress either the flathead Ford guys or us Mopar Morons..........not trying to be annoying just stating reasonable fact.....the installation of a late model OHV or OHC V8 would at least give a reasonable increase in power and be much simpler due to parts availability and cost........but your choiceas I have mentioned I stuck a 1962 318 Poly V8 in my 1940 Dodge in 1973........if I was doing an engine swap now then I'd go for a late A series 318 or better still a late model Mopar Hemi & overdrive trans........anyway your choice .....heres a pic of the Poly in my Dodge........regards from Oz.

I'd be checking which Chrysler body you are comparing and exactly which Chrysler series.

As far as I know 1939/40 & 41 all use the same basic front sway bar and bracketry which has a ball type end on the actual sway bar that fits into the stock rubber bushed vertical links that in turn bolt onto the front of the lower shock absorber pin that goes thru the spindle....but from 1942 the the sway bar is longer tho' of a similar shape to the 39-41 piece but the sway bar ends locate into the front edge of the lower A arm into a rubber bush that is encased in steel and goes thru brackets that hang below the front frame extensions.........I've attached a couple of pics of the sway bar I had made 45yrs ago using the stock 1940 shape but 1" in diameter with drilled flattened ends and an adjustable Heim jointed link.......yeh...its a hotrod.......lol......and yep, I had the original sway bar that the suspension shop used as a pattern........so none of this is probably much help to you..........lol...........Andy Douglas

Very nice, I don't need these pieces but would be interested in your explanation of how you did them as they appear very well done & quite professional......andyd

Apologies if this info has already been posted but the February Collectible Automobile magazine has a 4 page feature on a 1934 Plymouth PE De Luxe 4dr Sedan, nice clean pics & basic info......good to see another mopar in print & a print magazine still in print.......lol............andyd