andyd

Yeh, I was thinking that I'd use some "Never Seaze" stuff I have...............just wondering whether using the grub screws as a bolt will work....what I mean is that they are screwed into the threaded hole using the hex that they have and a nut is used to hold the exhaust manifold against the head..........now the nuts would just be hand tightened which shouldn't place undue pressure on the grub screw but am now wondering...................will have to investigate this...........lol............andyd

Well, I've decided to go with 3/8 UNC Grub screws that are 1 & 1/2 " long and are readily available & more importantly for tightwad me only a few dollars each so I expect to see these grub screws next Tuesday............yippee.........lol..........so we shall see.........andyd

Plymouthy.......those look to be the best deal so far but I've just spoken to a local guy who reckons he can check a mate of his that plays with MGB's & he thinks they use the same studs......this guy also has a lathe and I gave him 8 UNC and 8UNF bolts that each have enough shank that he can mount in his lathe, spin the bolt head off and cut new threads in the other end...........so things maybe looking up....lol.........will see what happens........lol...........andyd

Its what it is........its like most things wherever you live, you adapt or accommodate the idioscigcracies that your area has.........I'm essentially in a regional town with its limited scope......I grew up in Sydney, Oz's largest city, now 3-4million and I'm sure I'd find them somewhere there but as its 700kms away I'll pass........lol.........but I'll sort something out...........which do you think would be easier to hand cut with a die nut........UNC or UNF threads........was gunna get/find a bolt with the other thread on it with a long enough shank then tap the opposite thread............fun,fun..........andyd

Thanks guys for the replies, I've tried the 6 auto parts stores, 3 engineering supply stores & 1 bolt specialist store that are in my town, Grafton, New South Wales and none have these nor can get them, UNC/UNF/SAE bolts are not common now in Oz, no problem gettingMetric but thats not what I want nor need, nor will fit..lol.......I've looked at just getting a die nut & tapping the UNF thread myself but thought I'd see if anyone on here had a contact......as its a hotrod, the new engine was going to be painted Hemi orange..........even finding that was a hassle....one rattle can only at all 6 auto parts stores......everything is geared to Frod or Sanyway I've got a couple of leads to follow up.........will update.........Andy Douglas

I have a question..........I am looking to find 318 Poly Exhaust Manifold Studs..........yes I know this forum is for the various side valve 6 engines, specifically the Dodge/Plymouth 23" however living here in Australia has its limitations..........I am looking for up to 16, but 8 will do of these with the following diamensions......3/8"th diameter, 1 & 1/2 " long with 3/8 UNC thread at the cylinder head end, and 3/8 UNF at the other end with approx 1/2" in the middle with no thread. I know Wanted Adverts should be placed in the Classified Section but can I ask that the moderators be a little forgiving with me as I've run up against a brick wall both here and in the USA( where the postage cost for these I've been quoted as nearly $70 Australian.........just for postage by an East Coast fastener company) Anyway I can get away with using just 3/8UNC bolts but I'd like to get the original studs if possible. ..........rather than clog up this forum my direct email is scaleautomobilia@yahoo.com and I can be contacted there or email a phone number and I'll call you, your best time....... Thank You for any and all consideration.......Andy Douglas

Pleased to hear that you answered you question..........however I'd strongly suggest joining the Chrysler Restorers Club..........they have been going for 50yrs & have a wealth of knowledge...........I'm their"hotrod" section........lol........andyd

I can't answer your question but suggest you join the Chrysler Restorers Club in Sydney........they have an extensive library & maybe able to answer the question........I asume these are for the 1932 Plymouth?..........would be a fairly uncommon year here in Oz.........regards from sunny South Grafton, NSW.........Andy Douglas

Great work.......have not heard of sleeving wheel cylinders with gunmetal........when I 1st started to restore the Dodge in 1972 the wheel cylinders were resleeved by Better Brakes in Brass but I think that stainless is the go to material now............nice job overall..........andyd

Some sort of metal/rubber steering shock isolator?.......think I have seen somewhere that its a Dodge specific part........but I could be wrong.........lol.

I assume that you are in Australia...........why?.............your use of the Oz only term "Kew" in reference to the 25" Chrysler/DeSoto sourced engine which was referred to as a "Kew" engine due to its being ordered thru the British Mopar company in KEW England.........the engines AFAIK were supplied from the Canadian Mopar company as they all used 25" engines exclusively from the late 30's. Using the "kew" term in any dealings with the Yanks & Cannuks is generally not recommended as they probably will have no idea what a Kew engine is.........they are basically the same as their 250cube/25" engines. When I was building an ex Sydney airport tug 230 cube 23" engine I had a 1/2 race cam ground by Waggotts in Lismore but I understand they are no longer in business..........I'd be contacting any of the cam grinders listed in magazines like Oz Street Machine, Restored Cars magazine, engine rebuilders and the like...........I know this doesn't help but here a pic of the Waggott ground cam and the 23" finned head I got from Earl Edgerton...I intended to run twin carbs & a split header system in the 1941 Plymouth which I stupidly sold as well as selling the engine & all parts.................sometimes I do stupid things........lol.....the guys that bought Earl Edgertons finned head busines might still be on here......also try Vintage Power wagons and George Ashe in the USA BUT don't say its a "KEW".......just tell them its a 25"/250 engine.............lol..........regards from Sunny South Grafton.....Andy Douglas

Nigel.........this is probably useless info but I have mid 50's Oz Ford 4dr Customline coil springs in the front of my 1940 Dodge, obtained them from a mate who had a few spare sets.....this was 35 yrs ago, they are slightly thicker than the original 1940 springs ......I also cut one coil from them.........considering that the car has a heavier 318 V8, etc it rides o/k and yet sits a little lower........andyd

Here in Australia there are both a VH40 and VH44 remote boosters that were a VERY common upgrade to drum brake and early disc brake systems.....exactly which booster was for drum & disc I can't recall but these booster are still keenly sought out.........andyd

I've learnt something ...........always good when that happens..............andyd

I agree with Plymouthy's suggestion.....assuming you can weld..........I built a tow bar for my 1940 Dodge years ago using 3" x 2" heavy wall rectangular tubing the width of the frame , then used 3/8" thick 2" wide strip welded at either end then drilled to use the bolt holes for the bumper bar irons and longer bolts...........I welded a piece of 1/2" thick 4" wide steel plate onto the rectangular tube equidistant between the frame rails , drilled & tapped holes to bolt the tow gooseneck onto this plate and brackets for a safety chain attachment point were also made..........I don't have any pics unfortunately but using Plymouthys suggestion of checking out whats available from a wrecking yard might also be useful................andyd

I've not played with a 1950 Plymouth but that piece looks like a fender brace that goes from the frame to the lower edge of the front fender behind the wheel arch.......but I could be wrong.......andyd

Here in Oz the local brake manufacturer PBR had 2 remote boosters available from the mid 1960's, there were and are known as the VH40 and VH44 boosters and are regularly used to increase the stopping power of drum brakes and even some early disc brake systems.........they are very similar to that pic that Loren posted.........andyd

SteveR......re the pic that Sniper posted, the steering box pitman arm uses a ball to locate inside the tubular end of the drag link..........there will be some sort of adjustment arrangement where the pitman arm locates in the drag link.........work out how its attached and it should have some sort of pin locking the adjustmant ...........but we are talking about the firewall end of the drag link.........Steve....are you talking about the axle end of the drag link?, the steering arm you refer to at the front?......andyd

Interesting question.......those mount on a flat surface which may or may not work where the chassis upper shock spot is on the 1940-48 mopars, also the lower mopar mount is basically pointing to the rear of the car....these mounts when attached to the chassis have the "pin" pointing more or less at 90 degrees to the frame........but usually the upper & lower shock eyes can be turned at 90 degrees to each other...........I'm curious whether they may work.........andyd

I agree with Tods point, generally fog or driving lights for asthetic reasons should be smaller than the main headlights.........the Trippe lights are very close to the size of the 39 DeSoto headlights and in my opinion seem too large for the overall appearance.......my Oz 2 cents worth..........andyd

Rmon...........Can I throw a curved ball into the ring...........lol............in 1973 I installed a 318 Poly V8 in my 1940 Oz Dodge.............at the time there were no instructions available nor did I have much in the way of outside help but I could weld and use a tape measure so I had a go.........I was 19 and basically did a few things more than once but I still have the car & its Poly V8.........now you have a 1954 Plymouth.......did you know that in 1957 Chrysler here in Australia introduced what they called a Chrysler Royal..........it was based on the 1953/54 Plymouth body and chassis with 1955/56 front & rear fenders attached.............the interesting thing that you need to be aware of is that the Chrysler Royal for the 6 yrs of its use in Australia from 1957 to 1962 had a 313( essentially the same as the 318) Poly V8 which is basically the same block as the 1966 onwards 318/340 & 360 V8's that mopar used and in fact these later engines are in fact not as wide nor as heavy as the earlier 313/318 poly and also use a much lighter transmission............your best bet would be to get as late an LA series Mopar V8 & trans that you can, also a later rear axle from either a mopar or something else that fits & a disc brake conversion for the front and have at it ..........I've attached 3 pics of the Oz Chrysler Royals showing that 1953/54 Body shell....each in these cars was available with a 313(318) Poly V8 and cast Iron Torqueflite push button trans.......also a couple of pics of my 1940 Dodge 4dr Sedan & the 313/318 Poly V8 thats lived there for 51yrs now........regards from Australia.......Andy Douglas

I would not use any sort of nylon clip, the original used bolts so bolts & nuts should replace whats buggered.........You can get captive nuts in a UNC threaded size that can be welded into where a threaded boss has rusted out or even drill the threaded boss out and install a bolt in reverse ( depending on whether this method will allow enough accessibility to install a nut........I'd be getting a Parts manual that should show you exactly what was used in the front and other sheet metal originally & then you can decide how, when & what you are going to do..... ............an example is when I replaced & repaired the rockers or sills on my 1940 Oz Dodge the original running board bolts screwed into captive nuts in the bottom of the rockers..........unfortunately of the 5 or 6 that held the running boards on, most had rusted and just spun.........so I ground off the bolt heads, made up small square plates with a bolt inserted & welded onto each plate with its "hanging" thread down bolt into the repaired rocker..............voila.....an attachment point that 50 yrs later has never shown any possibility of rusting out and as I used 3/8 UNC threaded bolts they are stronger and easier to undo..............may not get any points in a concourse show but I'm a hotrodder & could care less..........lol..............regards from Oz...........andyd

Agree, more than likely some sort of rustproofing or underbody deadening........if not wanted now then scrape it off but make sure to put something on in its place.....andyd

My 40 Dodge as does all Oz cars has to use both front & rear licence or what we call number plates.....my car uses the original 1940 brackets that fit on both sides of the bumper dumb irons and are clamped with the dumb iron between them and fixed with a bolt on top of & at the bottom of where the dumb iron is.............then a stamped steel cross bracket is factory welded onto the dumb iron clamp and the number plate bolted onto this cross bracket........you can just see this clamp underneath the lower edge of the number plate. The rear plate attaches to the factory cross bracket which bolts onto the factory triangular mount on the trunk lid...........andyd

I've used car or truck inner tube cut to fit........seems to work o/k............andyd