andyd

Re the parking brake, its essentially just a "drum brake" mounted on the driveshaft instead of inside the rear wheel brakes........a small version of what most large trucks still use, which can give a suggestion as to where to get it fixed.........you mention that half the brake liner is missing.......if its just the actual brake lining but the 2 brake shoes are still there then they can be relined with new material and after installation and adjustment the parking brake will work as good as new.....hopefully......depending on whether the car has an internal expanding or external contracting style of parking or handbrake the disassembly will be slightly different.......... ............if its an internal expanding type then to pull apart without having a hand brake to hold the driveline use some sort of lever/large screwdriver to wedge between the 4 bolts and against the frame then undo the 4 bolts on the front & rear of the driveshaft, remove it and while keeping the bolts from turning undo the large centre bolt, remove the brake drum then the brake shoes and get relined.... ............if its an external contracting style then take note of where everything attaches, lever/wedge the drum to stop it turning then disassemble, get shoes relined and reassemble ............if missing a complete brake shoe rather than just the brake lining on one shoe then I'd suggest contacting places like Andy Bernbaums or other Mopar retailers........hope this helps a bit.......just checked US Ebay...Kanter has a set of parking brake shoes to suit 49 Plymouth listed for $75.........regards, andyd .....andyd

Ah......the joy of dealing with Mother Mopars mix 'n match peccadillos........lol.......good luck guys..............andyd

Welcome aboard the best Mopar site, not sure re the 1949 cars but the steering box has rubber isolators between it and the frame and on the outside between the mounting plate and the frame.....these isolators become very soft or hard depending on your luck.............lol.......and allow the steering box to move more than it should.........if you find replacements it is possible to replace them without removing the steering box......main thing is to make sure to not loose the small "washers" that locate around the molded areas on the isolators.........regards from Oztralia......thats a nice looking car..........andyd

I would try and clean the area around the hole and inside it even just using a Q tip with a little wd40 or similar to check if there is the remains of the oil filler cap still in the hole.....if so not sure whether they screw in or a press fit but to remove any oil filler remains I'd use an Ezy Out .......once you know that the hole is not blocked by anything & is clean then I'd check with the local engineering, bearing or machine shop to see if they may have an oil filler.........once the hole is clean then even dropping a couple of drops of a light oil like Greg G mentions or press some grease in the hole with a fingertip, clean up around the hole & use a piece of tape over the hole until you can find an oil filler......andyd

This probably doesn't help or answer your question but I've just used either pliers or multi grips to "crimp" the brass ends into/onto the plug wires........I've heard that there are the correct type of tool available but have never chased up one.........andyd

Is the blue an original colour?..........the more I look at the pics the more it seems like it would or should be......also I'm curious regarding the way you did the two tone, ie, the black on the body moldings......I would have done it by spraying the blue overall then masking the moldings and spraying the black.........I honestly don't know why I would have done it that way but your method appears to have worked extremely well.........I'm certainly not a spraypainter tho' I have done a couple of cars over the years but your work has impressed me............andyd

All jokes aside re the paint job, I thought it was very nice, good shine and I really like the colour...........here in Oz we only got Mopar 4dr sedans from 1946 to 1952 in Dodge, Plymouth & DeSoto then we got Utes to add to the mix but never any coupes, 2 drs, wagons or convertibles so coupes are coverted........yours looks to be a neat car.......andyd

My useless 2 Oz cents worth contribution to this thread........when I was young & silly and was learning all about 1940 Dodges in the early 1970's the car had a leaking water pump.....I had a workshop manual and back then could easily buy a water pump repair kit.............so I did..........and proceeded to break, mangle and generally stuff up those mongrel fibre washer crap things that came in the original water pumps and repair kits......more than once or twice as I recall....... ..............so when the water pump started to leak and whine in the 1941 Plymouth I had bought in 2007 I was SO PLEASED that Mr Gates had installed a sealed normal bearing & seal in the nice new water pumps........yeh, I ended up selling the car like a dope but for me a water pump repair kit is something I hope I never have the misfortune of dealing with again...........lol.....regards from Oztralia............andyd

This is the puller that I have used for over 50 yrs on both my cars and others, it has never met a brake drum or hub that it didn't like........but I will admit that those 5 hole pullers like what Rich has and Veemoney made would certainly be the way to go if you could obtain/make one.....andyd

I have been dealing with Bernbaums for nearly 40 yrs and have found them good to deal with, fair prices, prompt and well packed and worth the call.......even from Australia.......welcome aboard from Oz.........andyd

Chrome.........lovely shiney, beautiful chrome.......looks like a great job......who did it?.......andyd

Installed a HEI electronic dissy on the 41 Plymouth I had, it had been converted to 12 volts with the original 201 engine before i got the car......the electronic install was straightforward the best thing I did when I had the car, instant starts, smoother running thoroughly recomend this conversion.

Coda, good explanation, I too have a slightly modernised cruiser, my 1940 Dodge, 318 Poly,auto,4 wheel discs & rack & pinion, updated original style front end, original rear springs, etc..been like it more or less since 1973.......looking forward to seeing your finished car........thanks

Nice work so far, curious re your 4 bar mounting setup.........I would have thought it would have been better to have the mounts on the axle further out towards each wheel thereby using the angled inwards 4bars to help locate/centre the axle, also the axle mount of the panhard bar could therefore be more towards the opposite side and offer a reduction in the "leverage" effect that a short bar results in..........but I'm happy to learn here.........anyway I'm impressed with your work so far, clean tidy building.........thanks, andyd

Hibish..........AFAIK it makes no difference whether the car is RHD or LHD.........I had a factory RHD 1941 Plymouth and the pump looked the same style as that used on pictures I've seen on here of LHD pumps........also the 41 Plymouth whilst being RHD , the steering box which is the problem child in this conversation sits between the fuel and oil pumps and lives quite happily there........so long as the fuel pump you have has the correct placement of the mounting boss and the two bolt holes are in the correct position and the pivot pin is in place then the pump should pump...........I think you have carby or ignition issues............if you hold both pumps beside each other you can compare the angle of the arm in relation to the mounting boss and whether one contacts the cam under or over the actual cam is immaterial....the cam just pushes the arm, the arm pivots and the diaphram sucks & blows fuel.......BTW are you in Oztralia?.....attached pic shows the fuel pump that I was going to use on the hotrodded 230 I was buildingj..andyd

Out of curiosity I opened this thread and it brought back some old memories, particularly of the late Don Coatney(RIP) and Pete(Blue Skies) who I first encountered and who introduced me to this forum............whatever happened to Pete(Blue Skies)?.......anyone know?.......I vaguely recall he sold his car but could be wrong?.......regards from Oz........andyd

I used standard backspaced Wheel Vintique Chrome Smoothies on the 41 Plymouth Coupe I had a few yrs ago......15x6 and 15x7 wheels with the multi hole setup, I had to remove the stock locating stud on the stock 41 Plymouth Brake drums and also used the stock 41 Plymouth bolts to attach the wheels.........as I always do I checked and retightened as necessary the bolts after a short drive and had no issue.......one coil was cut from the front suspension and 2" lowering blocks installed on the rear springs with no clearance issues on the inner areas or outer fender edges........and yep I sold the car like a dope..........my Oz 2 cents worth........andyd

Dan..........interesting comment..........I understand that Zinc Chromate is the anti corrosion paint that was used mainly on aircraft areas that were directly exposed to the weather, ie, undercarriage bays, inside of wings , flaps, rudders & aillirons and that the interior of US aircraft were generally painted a dull mid green, although I understand that there were a couple of variations of this interior colour............I have been building plastic models for over 60 yrs and have seen references to this "interior green" many times and have seen at least 2 different FS or Federal Standard numbers for what was supposedly the same colour.........lol..........have not heard of the "sage green" term tho' I no doubt believe that the term may have been a term used by the Fulton Company as a marketing ploy rather than just go with the "zinc chromate" term...............the plot thickens.......lol..........andyd

The fuel pump cam is just that a lobe on the camshaft whether its a machined part of the billet or a bolt on piece its is just the same as any cam that revolves with the camshaft........therefore so long as the fuel pump arm touches this cam whether underneath, on top, at the side the "shape" of the fuel pump arm is really immaterial...........the fuel pump cam lobe will push against the arm and dah, dah..........pump fuel........my oz 2 cents worth.......andyd

The mention of Zinc Chromate reminds me of something I read many years ago in relation to the proliferation of external alloy sun visors post WW2 as a means to use up the excess sheets of Zinc Chromated alloy sheet that were available with the cancellation of aircraft orders once the war was over..........sounded like a true story but have not heard it verified in any way........when I received the Fulton 1000 sun visor I had bought from a guy on this forum in the USA its arrival tended to at least in some way confirm this story as while it was painted black on the top it was Zinc Chromate underneath and on areas that hadn't been painted...........anyway my 2 oz cents worth......Andyd

Yeh, you're right just probably overthinking this........lol.........anyway got to actually get them first........I've been sold a few pups lately so we'll see.......lol.......andyd

Yeh, I was thinking that I'd use some "Never Seaze" stuff I have...............just wondering whether using the grub screws as a bolt will work....what I mean is that they are screwed into the threaded hole using the hex that they have and a nut is used to hold the exhaust manifold against the head..........now the nuts would just be hand tightened which shouldn't place undue pressure on the grub screw but am now wondering...................will have to investigate this...........lol............andyd

Well, I've decided to go with 3/8 UNC Grub screws that are 1 & 1/2 " long and are readily available & more importantly for tightwad me only a few dollars each so I expect to see these grub screws next Tuesday............yippee.........lol..........so we shall see.........andyd

Plymouthy.......those look to be the best deal so far but I've just spoken to a local guy who reckons he can check a mate of his that plays with MGB's & he thinks they use the same studs......this guy also has a lathe and I gave him 8 UNC and 8UNF bolts that each have enough shank that he can mount in his lathe, spin the bolt head off and cut new threads in the other end...........so things maybe looking up....lol.........will see what happens........lol...........andyd

Its what it is........its like most things wherever you live, you adapt or accommodate the idioscigcracies that your area has.........I'm essentially in a regional town with its limited scope......I grew up in Sydney, Oz's largest city, now 3-4million and I'm sure I'd find them somewhere there but as its 700kms away I'll pass........lol.........but I'll sort something out...........which do you think would be easier to hand cut with a die nut........UNC or UNF threads........was gunna get/find a bolt with the other thread on it with a long enough shank then tap the opposite thread............fun,fun..........andyd