andyd

When I bought the 41 plymouth Coupe it had been converted to 12 volts, negative earth, rewired to have a seperate ignition/start key.....original mid 50's mopar distributor......I bought & installed the HEI dissy from Tom Langdon and it was the best thing I did on the car.........instant starts, smoother running, just seemed better in every respect.......prior to the HEI I'd get in the car, turn the key, pump the accelerator pedal a couple of times & after winding over it would start but needed a minute or two before setting off...........with the HEI I could stand outside the car, turn the ionition key and without any input from me on the accelerator pedal the car would start, idle well and I'd get in and drive off.......unfortunately this is the only pic of the engine bay I have.......sold the car like a dope............thoroughly recommend the upgrade.....Andyd

Trav.........dunno if I've asked this before but I sold my 41 Plymouth to a guy from Cohuna in Nthn Victoria, just curious if you have ever seen it around.........he was supposedly a restorer and gave me the impression that he was going to put the stock wheels, raised it, etc, back onto the car......I've never seen it in any event pics since.....attached pic shows what it looked like when I sold it.......andyd

I am more than impressed...........like I said.....if you ever get tired of the car call me.........I've got a couple of questions re the triple carbs setup........can you email your phone number & I'll call......my email is scaleautomobilia@yahoo.com thanks, andyd

Maybe I was young & silly(well, I was 50 yrs ago...now just silly) but I wouldn't use one of those repair kits now that new water pumps are available........I remember cursing those kits and the fibre washers that tended to break........Ivan....your choice to keep the original pump, me?, if I was to keep it it would be as a paper weight on a shelf, the new ones have sealed bearings, better seals & no more playing with grease and improved more modern impellers.......my understanding is that the only difference between the kits is the style of impeller...........my Oz 2 cents worth......Andy Douglas

Just my Oz 2 cents worth, be careful dealing with Steele Rubber.......they sent me the wrong part and would not consider that they had done such a thing and since then I badmouth them as much as possible.........just ensure that they understand your order.........andyd

What hole are you tapping a thread in?.....is it the two holes on the steering arm?..........I've adapted disc brakes to a few different year mopars here in oz, all essentially the same I'm curious as to what you are doing?.....if the intention is attach the steering arms via bolts from the caliper adaptor into the newly threaded steering arms I would still use longer bolts that protrude enough to allow nuts to be used as a failsafe where the bolts protrude on the steering arms........but thats just me............andyd

If you look closely at BOTH your pics the 1st one shows a ROUND end to the locking pin( this is the side its installed from).........the 2nd pic shows a ROUND end BUT with a shamfered edge which is essentially a "wedge" that locks against the king pin(the side thats hit to remove it)......this locking pin is installed from the opposite side to where you see that edge..........therefore to remove the pin you use a punch of the same diameter as the pin against the edged side with a couple of good hammer blows and the pin should pop out then use a punch to hit the kin pin either up or down as is your preferencemaybe squirt a little WD40 into the locking pin hole but they generally come out with a couple of good wacks with a BFH............lol......you can also use a 3/8 bolt of about 4-5" long which gives you enough space to hold the bolt with a diameter thats pretty close to the locking pin diameter...............regards from Oz.......andyd

Maybe, tho' I haven't bothered going to any Chrysler Restorers Club events for over 30yrs.........I helped get the club going back in the early 70's but upset a few wankers when I attended a vintage/veteran display day at Warwick Farm in my hotrodded 1940 Dodge & had the gaul to open the hood of my car & show its V8...I got a letter from the wankers asking me to attend a meeting & explain why I shouldn't be expelled from the club..........after I explained that I had not only helped get the club started but had installed various modifications to a number of club members cars they allowed me to remain a member........lol............I let the membership lapse till about 20 yrs ago & am still a current member but I haven't participated in any events.........we'll see.............andyd

The alloy head was an Edgy Head from Earl Edgerton in California, I also had a twin carb Offy intake, split stock cast iron exhaust manifolds, Hei dissy, Beehive oil filter, Waggott 1/2 race cam plus all new internal parts & an imported from the USA a T5 gearbox......due to financial issues I sold the complete engine then the car.........sometimes we do stupid things........lol............andyd

Surprised that no one has chimed in...........when I was chasing parts to build the 230 I had I bought a box of NOS Chrysler Valve springs from guys in Turkey where there was a major mopar distribution centre.......from memory the box was a Federal Mogul box & had listed that it was for the 23/25" engine but as this pic shows you can't see any box markings......I sold all this stuff & this is the only pic I have showing the springs, vales, lifters etc.........good luck in the hunt..............maybe try George Ashe/Vintage Power Wagons as they may know...........andyd

I could be wrong but I'd think those side window visors or shades would have died out with the dodo.....lol........I doubt whether any aftermarket or spare parts place would still have any in stock unless its a very old store.......that type of item would probably have been bought up by those guys that now sell on ebay asking crazy prices......I think these visors/shades would be the sort of things that people selling Fulton & similar front windscreen sun visors would deal in, tho' again this is only a guess.........good luck in the hunt tho'.............andyd

Plymouthy.......I've got more than a few unfinished model kits.....probably about 150 cars & 150 aircraft kits.........all are in various states of in/completeness....lol.....main thing as far as I'm concerned is whether its in 1/25th or 1:1 scale is to keep plodding along with it........heres a pic of my Tower of Empty Model Kit Boxes....this was taken over 2 years ago, I started building the Tower in March 2020, its now 5 wide and the ceiling high...........keeps me amused or not....lol.......Andy Douglas

Just found the resin 1/24-25th 1950 Plymouth 2dr.....it was made by R & R in 1993/4.....its a nicely done resin body shell, separate frame, interior tub, dash, seat vacu formed clear window piece & chromed grille & front/rear bumpers.....hood is molded shut, no engine as such tho' the one from AMT's 41 Plymouth would work, also no wheels or tyres are included.......I don't think R & R are still in business but checking on US Ebay, and various on line model companies may be worthwhile........regards, andyd

Trav............VERY NICE........the interior looks exceptional.....got any close up pics of the dash?........what year is the steering wheel?......looks like a 46-48 Chrysler wheel.......if ever you get tired of the car give me a call.......lol...........are you running the triple carbs now?..........details, details.......I am impressed.......andyd

Dunno if this is any help but there has been a 1950 Plymouth 2 dr sedan available in urethane resin.....its 1/24th scale.........andyd

I'd check with any local tyre/wheel shop, the easiest maybe having the stock centres cut from the original wheels and then installed in new 16" rims of the width you want......only issue maybe that the new rims may not have the same shape/style of rim as the originals but doing it this way means you still use the original centres..........years ago it was a common thing here in Oz to widen original rims by cutting in half then inserting a piece to widen the rim.....only problem doing it this way is that it required two weld beads which the local registration dept didn't like......lol.......I'm a hotrodder so I just stuck Wheel Vintiques Chrome Smoothies 15x6 & 15X7 with the standard back spacing on my 41 Coupe....looked great......sold the car like a dope........lol.........andyd

Yep, sounds like the issue is in the fuel line.......there should be a small length of hose between the fuel line on the frame and fuel pump, check that it hasn't collapsed inside...then check the fuel line at the tank, if its the original setup then when you undo the line at the tank there should be a small ferrule on the metal line that may or may not be firmly around the tubing.......if lost it can be a PITA to find & replace.....lol.......from memory I vaguely recall that the metal fuel line has a metal joiner around the firewall.........if there is one there, maybe try & undo that & blow air thru there also.........hope you get it sorted.........andyd

Neat piece of memorabilia.......in 3 years being a top DeSoto Salesman would have meant very little.........andyd

Am trying to work out what these are.....are they installed in place of the inside door push down lock button that is thru the inside door garnish molding?........used on cars from the late 40's onwards?........andyd

My opinion is only from a couple of years(like 53yrs ago) back when I 1st got the 40 Dodge & having to replace the B&T when all I could get was a stock style with the leather boot.......what a PITA......the memory of the mongrel thing still haunts me......as the Dodge has been a hotrod since mid 1973 with a 318 Poly & proper uni jointed driveshaft I haven't had to deal with B&T's since but I would suggest if you can to replace the B&T with a proper uni joint........or at the very least use a B&T rebuild kit that uses the rubber boot rather than the leather "wrap"..........regards from Oztralia.........andyd

Also did you replace the rubber isolators that go between the steering box and frame and outside the frame and metal plate?.....and as Keith says, adjust the steering box worm/roller...... ..........however, I have had a 9" narrowed Austin 1800 rack & pinion in my Oz 1940 Dodge since 1973.........if I was to do it again I'd use a Cavalier center steer rack, there is a couple of good threads on this forum outlining the pros & cons of using a rack & pinion..........what you need to be aware of is that you need to consider what steering column you are using also....a stock column with its stock shifter complicates the use of a non stock steering box.......as a general idea the change in steering box is usually done with a steering column change......but there are ways of doing/leaving or changing all this.......it just depends on how keen/desperate or a good fabricator you are.........lol.........your answer here...............lol...........regards from Oztralia.......Andy Douglas

Well, I've learnt something new today.....that last pic from Chry41 shows that there is a taller front mount which answers Scottish41's question.........apologies if I just confused the issue.......trust you get it sorted out........regards from Oz......andyd

Dunno if this is any help but my Oz 1940 Dodge is based on the USA 1940 Plymouth & uses the same style of hood/bonnet and from the pics you show I agree that there seems to be something missing on the front area where the hood hinge bolts on.......however my car just has the front hinge bracket bolted directly onto the radiator surround........from your pic I would think that you appear to need a "spacer".......BUT..............when you gently close either side of the hood does the hinge barcket touch the radiator surround?...........IF SO, then I'd suggest that the bracket WILL actually bolt onto the radiator surround using a bolt with 1/4" UNC thread and 7/16th SAE or AF head size as my car uses........this is the only pic I have showing the area similar to your car, note the 2 threaded holes at the top of the radiator surround....same as yours....my cars bonnet hinge bolts directly onto these holes.........Andy Douglas

Re the water pump........it maybe the fan belt..........try this........get an old cake of soap.....rub it against the angled/bevelled edges of the fan belt in a few accessible places before starting the engine.......if its coming from a "dry" fan belt the noise should stop......here in Australia I can also buy a spray can of belt lube which does the same job as the soap...........if the noise is still there then, yep, its probably the water pump.......andyd

Sniper.........this is why I like this forum so much.......I don't need a heat shield, but your post of the McMaster standoffs link was things I did not know existed.........its nice to learn something new..........many thanks Mate............andyd