BobT-47P15

I know the bonnet is the hood........I guess they are kinda distant cousins.

Just amazing how suddenly these topics can take a sideways turn........LOL

A turtle lid is a first cousin to the bonnet.

I think Shel said it just right. You have to have the key turned to a certain position to allow the pin to be pushed in.

Assuming you have the correct upper latch.......a metal piece with a screw and nut through it......the screw can be adjusted in or out, then tighten the nut. I had to adjust mine the other day as it caught and held too much.....had to pry open the door a few times before getting it right. It's not rocket science, but you have to work with even something simple as that door to get it working correctly.

The little glove box bumpers for sale on ebay..........$5.95. Link to the ad: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-74-NOS-MoPar-Rubber-Bumper-Power-Wagon-Dodge-Truck-/360473326553?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53ede273d9&vxp=mtr

Here's a picture of that glove box door spring. It's a flat piece of metal with a curve in one end. Applies a little pressure against the door.

That'll get their attention. All I have is a klaxon (oogah) horn, siren, and some horn off some unknown car. Cant play a tune with them though.

If it's a business coupe - I would think the rear area originally used to carry salesman's samples and suitcases, etc, would have been made from wood. It was simply a raised platform on the bottom with a flat back panel. Probably a rubber mat on the bottom and some sort of material or cardboard on the back panel. This is a 1940 Chevy biz coupe............

Don.....did I tell you I got some Technostalgia 6 volt LED tail lights? They have stopped making them, due to inadequate sales volume.

Thanks. I'm no expert......just know enough to be dangerous when it comes to computers. If Microsoft 7 in more like xp, then I might prefer it. I have Vista on the laptop.....not that crazy about how it does some things.

So now, there is no anti virus program from Microsoft as Windows Security Essentials has been ended. What free security program, if any, is good? Of course, the company would like everyone to switch to the new 8.1 system. Do they charge to do that?

I saw that about weather in the St Louis area. We are about 4 hours to the southwest of there......and did not get anything from that.

It looks like Don could open his own floral shop as a retirement project.

You can spend a lot of time and money or a really rough car. If that doesn't work for you, I would pass it by and keep looking around.

Don.....are you using the lever type brake light switch?

Using Google, I found we have a Plymouth and a DeSoto in Missouri.

Yes - it is fun to meet forum members. I've had the pleasure of meeting a few at various places......all have been nice guys. Met Mr. Coatney for lunch in his hometown (at that time) of Murfreesbobo, Tenn several years ago.....along with the late Norm's Coupe who was on a vacation trip and passing thru......... After lunch, Don took us for a ride in his "hot rod" P15 with the DeSoto six. Definitely a recommended thing to do.

Yes.....volume level is one of my pet peeves also.........even though I play music (bass guitar, harmonica & occasionaly washboard). The fellow I play with owns one of the newer Bose "stick" P.A. systems with the tall skinny speaker post. Sometimes the wife says even we get a bit loud.....but nothing like what you get in the concerts you describe. We attended a concert once in a hall at Fayetteville, AR by Little Richard......a fund raiser for some worthy cause.......volume wasn't too bad at our balcony seat. Down on the main floor it about blew you out the door. And most all the crowd were older people.....who probably would not put up with that volume level any place else. I agree that bands in smaller venues should simply use their own amplifiers and P A systems - and don't need to be run thru "the house system".

As an aside, a Plymouth Prowler is currently entombed in Tulsa, OK......put in an above ground crypt a few years ago--- to be exhumed in 50 years. Like the buried 57 Plymouth there, dug up in 2007. Chrysler Corp per se had nothing to do with it far as I know. I don't know how the Prowler sold vs sales for the Viper.

Andy.....front sway bar is connected.....fairly new actually. It's a real short bounce......not a big mushy bounce. Maybe a "jounce". You notice every little bump you run over. Front end sits a little higher than before, too. If I can't improve upon it eventually, I may go back to the original configuration.

J C....do you have double filament bulbs with two contact sockets in your parking lights? Originally, the two parking lights are connected to the middle tap on that little three contact light bar on left inner fender . If you have turn signals as well, I'm not sure just how they hook up with the parking lights. I suppose the signal directions say how. I have only original single filament bulbs in my parking lights, and have disconnected them from the light bar and attached them to the turn signal only. The problem with messed up or incorrect wiring is tracing the wires to be sure what goes to what. A lot of the wires under the hood are often wrapped with electrical tape.......and you can't tell where things are going. It would probably behoove a person to cut off the tape so wires can be followed....can be re-taped later. I bought a multimeter that has the continuity testing feature, but that isn't foolproof......as current will often carry throughout an item such as the voltage regulator or solenoid and the tester will beep on every contact point. I had everything working as it should before some stuff was taken apart during repairs for the tornado damage. Even with factory diagrams and my own drawings, it's not easy to figure out.

Well, Hello John Teee. Hope you've been doing well. The Plymouth running and driving? Where's vacation this time???? Bob

I had son in law install the Dodge pickup shock mounts......he bought some shocks based on a number he had seen on here, I think. I believe he said they normally go on a motor home. When I drove the car today for the first time since getting it back....it was pretty bouncy. Which, I presume, means the shock is a bit too stiff. In searching the forum, I found Monroe 3033 (for a 67-91 Chevy truck); ProShox, either sm-500 or 600; and NAPA 94038. Anyone have a shock model they have used and like the results? Thanks.......... The ones now on the car are yellow, but I don't know the model number.

Kind of like the "antiquing" process done on furniture years ago. Don't know if they still sell "antiquing kits" -- they were basically a base coat color with a darker color to go on top of that, then use rag or "cheesecloth" or paint brush to get the "grain" look.