BobT-47P15

My car is a 47 Plym, but due to it being in an accident years ago--it has a 1939 Dodge pickup rear end...or some similar vintage Mopar. Has only one brake cyl per wheel. I got those from Andy Bernbaum (now under new ownership). Cost of the last pair was about $50 each. Or...White Post Restoration (and some other.places) can sleeve the old cyl.

I just was in the off topic section.......no problems encountered that I could tell. I purposely went over and turned the Microsoft Securities Essentials scan program on before going to OT.; Checked back - and it has not picked up on anything there.

We bought a well cared for used "01 PT for Mary Ann.....she really liked the looks, and the fact it is a small car (because she"s kinda short). Took it on a few road trips.....it was a bit underpowered.....so don't take any chances when trying to pass. Didn't have any major problems with it over several years. However, it didn't survive the big Joplin tornado in May of 2011. She wanted to buy it back from the insurance company, but they talked her out of it. We replaced it with an 06 Infiniti G35 sedan she thought was "cute". Was a pretty good car (fast on the takeoff).....til the grandson totalled it. Now she has an 08 Lexus IS 250 sedan she likes even better. But we had good luck with the PT Cruiser.

That makes sense. Over the years the manufacturers have destroyed experimental vehicles and all sortsa other things. Most or all of the "dream cars" were sent to one or more junkyards around Detroit. One operator saved many of them, and now they have been bought by fellows like Joe Bortz who has brought them back to life. Some did not even run when new and on the show circuit. Occasionally the company would sell an unusual car to a top executive for his personal use. Some of those got sold to others after a period of time.

It looks probably correct for the P15. I would guess the home made bracket might have held a backup light. I don't know if those wings on the ends are correct accessory items for a P15. The shape of the bumper ends behind the wings looks probably correct. You might remove the wings so we can see. Here's the gravel shield on my 47 Plym..........from the top. The 3 lines are raised.- the larger areas recessed.

I found this sender on eBay from mopar-direct in Belmont, Mass for $115 "buy it now". Says for 6V, 40-48 Plymouth and other Mopars. Is this the same one that was $99?? Now........if they would make an original looking new gas tank......all would be good. The son in law did mention one time there was someone in Kansas City that was good at re-doing a tank that was close to what we need by relocating the neck and (presumably) the sending unit hole if needed. Don't know any further details. I've seen a Ford tank that holds 17 gallons and looks to be about the same size/shape as our old Mopars. In a catalog of tanks available at O'Reilly Auto.

Received my new Airtex pump a few days ago. Was gone all weekend so just now reporting. Looks just as good on the outside as the older model ones. Don't know how you would tell if the pin is a potential problem on a new one.

Good road trip car............

The unit looks similar to the P15 item. It goes on 40s and 50s model Jeeps. Probably for 6V. Might work if what Tim said is there regarding ohms, etc. If all else is similar, including length of the arm, but the holes don't align..... perhaps holes in the unit could be re-drilled by making a paper template of where they should go.

Tim, his info says he has a 48 Plym club coupe. Should take the two wire sender.

It was to hang a "lap robe" or blanket on for use by passengers in the back seat if they got cold. At least, that what I recall it being for.

Red rims on a green car in a factory ad: Convertible with red rims...........' (couldn't separate the convert from the pic below it) May not prove anything still, but fun to look.

If indeed the factory did the red paint thing, it might have only been for the most sporty models, or maybe related to having the Red Ram V8. Just guessing.

Allright Roger. The ole goat ornament probably has a smile now. I have not heard of an award for best bonnet before. Is that a strictly Oz thing?

I recently had my front bumper re-chromed by Highline Plating in Cuba, MO. They did some minor straightening as well. I think it came out great. A friend went with me to deliver the bumper to the shop, and looked at some of their handiwork sitting around.......then looked at my bumper when done. He then sent them his grille and front bumper for his 57 Olds. Now, that's a lotta chrome. They charged me around $400 for doing the bumper and a little bit more for chroming the heads of a few oval bumper bolts. I would recommend these fellows. I bet they would do a pair of good tail light frames for less than the above mentioned price. Even with shipping. It's about a 3 hour drive from Joplin to Cuba, MO. I took the bumper up there. They said when it was done, they would deliver it to me in Springfield, MO......which is only an hour away from me. They called and I met their man at a Wal Mart parking lot. At the same time, they picked up my friend's Olds bumper so he never did have to drive to Cuba. Pretty good service, I'd say. HIGHLINE PLATING INC: Home highlineplating.webs.com/‎ HIGHLINE PLATING IS A DECORATIVE CHROME PLATING BUINESS THAT SPECIALIZES IN THE RESTORATION AND CHROME PLATING OF OLD AND ... Google+ page · 105 Enterprise Dr, Cuba, MO 65453 (573) 885-7651 They even have music on their home page...........here's a link..................http://highlineplating.webs.com/

Yes, Don, I was the one who had the pedal pads going the "wrong way". May have been how they were when I bought the car.........been so long now I don't recall. I had carpet put in the trunk, over insulation, then made my own side panels. Not the greatest job, but not too bad. Did that because I like to put various items in the trunk for car shows and just like the looks of it being "finished". \

Capacitors tend to dry out over many years...........probably need to replace them......along with vibrator.

Our old Mopars originally have a guide pin attached to the hub. But I don't think Ford rims have a hole for the guide. So......the choices are either cut off the guide pin or drill a hole in a Ford rim. I find the guide pin helpful when re-mounting my rims using the lug bolts.

I read neatsfoot oil was good. Neatsfoot is used to soften and condition leather shoes and boots. I think there is a leather item inside that wiper motor..........but have never taken one apart. You can sometimes find it at the supermarket in shoe care section, or a place where shoes are sold.

I play bass guitar, harmonica and occasional washboard. I work with a fellow named Max, who sings, plays guitar, and owns a batch of effects equipment for backup. Sometimes it's easier to get work with just two instead of 4 or 5.

The car in the original post is a coupe, not two door sedan. He put a 40 Ford split rear window in it.

Avon collector bottle. I've had one for a long time. It's on my toy car collection shelf. Yes, Fred, a real life T & C is a dandy sight.

I bought a pair of halogen 6V headlights at O'Reilly Auto Parts for the 47 Plymouth. Made by Wagner. Part number H6006.....marked on the light, but not on the box. They call it an "off road light". When I mentioned this light earlier, someone said--is the current draw and wattage too much for our old wiring system? I found this discussion on a Jeep CJ2A forum. Apparently a person was wondering if the halogen was OK for his 1948 Jeep. From the information copied below, it sounds as if the halogen is an OK replacement for the standard incandescent bulb. The person who started the post said: On the back of the headlamp is printed: WAGNER H6006 DOT 6V 45 10. Its 3 prongs line up exactly as the old bulb, but the new bulb's prongs are a bit shorter. I went to the Wagner site and it can not find the H6006. A second poster said: ----My initial 2 conclusions: 1) From a amp-draw standpoint it is safe to use a Halogen 6006 (H6006) as long its watts rating is roughly the same (~40-50) as the Incandescent 6006 (I6006). My understanding is that WATTS = VOLTAGE X AMPS. If true then a 50 watt Halogen and a 50 watt non-Halogen draw the same amperage. 2) From a heat standpoint it is also safe to use the Halogen with same watts rating. The Wagner tech said that Halogen technology generates less heat per watt and the Sylvania engineer said it generates about the same amount. I think a typical Halogen bulb gets so hot because its heat is focused on its relatively small bulb and it is why the bulb gets so hot. In the case of these sealed beam 6006s, when you look inside the halogen Wagner 6006 I bought yesterday you can actually see the small separate little halogen bulb. Since it is within the confines of the large 7" sealed beam housing, there is a lot of space and beam housing to spread/absorb the heat so my thinking is that the sealed beam housing gets no hotter than an equivalent wattage Incandescent's housing. When you look into the old Wagner I6006 you can actually see the regular filaments laid out just like you would see them in a cars' brake or turn signal bulb. -----WAGNER'S (Federal Mogul) tech-provided product specific information today: Their 6006 (incandescent) was replaced by their H6006 (halogen) and the 6006 is no longer made. There are no potential negative ramifications to using their H6006 versus the I6006 in our CJ2A application. Max amp draw on high beam: 8.2 Max amp draw on low bean: 6.2 -----Sylvania"s tech and engineer provided product specific information today: Tech was a nice guy but all he could see about their 6006 is that it was 6 volt and that High Beam listed as 50 watt and Low Beam listed as 40 watt. He couldn't tell if it was Halogen or not and put me on hold and checked with his engineer and when he came back said the engineer couldn't tell either. Left him with a bunch of things to research and he called me back later with feedback: Their 6006 is an incandescent and they do not have a Halogen equivalent. Watt high beam 50 and watt low beam 40. Amp high beam 8 and amp low beam 6.5. Another poster says: 35 watt is the low beam, would draw less that the 40 watt standard bulb, but the 65 watt hi-beam would draw 30% more than the standard 50 watt hi-beam. ie 10+ amps each. Another said: The "Off Road Lighting" gave me pause. Some lamps have higher wattage hi-beams (60-80-100 watts), in which case you might need heavier gauge wires. Re. the "quadratech" lamps: ... In conclusion, what seems left out is LUMENS (~visible light). A halogen generates more visible light per watt than an incandescent, so a smaller wattage halogen (say 35 watt) could generate as much light as a larger (say50 watt) incandescent while drawing less amperage (easier on the old 6 volt generator?) and generating less heat (longer bulb life?) Link to that forum: http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/wagner-h6006-headlamp-bulb_topic19779.html So, still not totally sure about current draw, at least on high beam.

You may not necessarily like some stuff he's doing, but at least another P15 will still be on the road. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=854955

I think there are a few people out there who do wheel restorations.....cost may be in the $300 range. Heres one place http://www.qualityrestorations.com/ A couple how tos on you tube......................http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsdKYtHsSc4