BobT-47P15

Took the convert for it's first drive of a few miles a couple of evenings ago.....as the temp here was in the 80s. The most I've driven it since getting it back from repairs and sitting close to three years. It now has a new Airtex fuel pump and rebuilt carb plus new plugs, points, etc....and was running really good.....then we stopped for some ice cream.....and it didn't want to start again. So I called a friend who brought a can of gas in case my gauge was not correct and I had run out of gas.... since that's what it acted like. Poured a little gas into the carb --- it coughed a bit and finally started, but was running a bit rough. Got back home......looked at the glass bowl on the fuel pump.....there's some rusty looking stuff in there......so the tank has probably acquired some corrosion over time. Don't know if the gas cap was in place during repair work so some dirt could have drifted in as well. Think I will try to remove the float and siphon out gas thru the opening and see what comes out. That way, if I want to remove the tank, it will be lighter and easier to handle. I think there is a rubber plug in the bottom of the tank.....but don't think I want to remove it as it might be difficult to replace without ending up with a leak since the rubber is old. It would sure be nice if some company out there would reproduce our tanks.....or even build a copy upon request. I really don't care for the look of that boxy looking item made by Tanks, Inc and would like to find something resembling the original. I think there is either a Ford or Jeep tank in a catalog I got from O'Reilly Auto Supply that is 17 gallon capacity, but the float hole and filler neck are not in the exact right places. If some clever and talented welder person could re-locate those two items, it would be a real deal. I guess that's the purpose of these old cars -- to give us old guys something to do in all our spare time.

Do any of you convertible guys have a part number for the windshield wiper motor.....as the one for convertibles (and I think, wagons) is different from all the rest of the models...? And/or -- what is the number for a sedan/coupe motor? Is the number found stamped into the motor, or is it printed on the housing some place? I have a n.o.s. motor that has some numbers printed on it, but don't know what they indicate....if they indeed are the part number. An antique parts dealership in Texas says they use the Trico number, but I haven't been able to get that number from them. I know they at least had some convertible units because I talked to the owner a few years ago. But he isn't at the shop as much lately due to some health issues and therefore I wasn't able to speak with him. My motor is working pretty well right now, but thought I might try to acquire a spare "just in case" it's ever needed. I think son in law put some neatsfoot oil into my motor to rejuvenate the leather piece....and that probably helped it some. Thanks in advance for any info.

I think it's Hemmings Motor News who puts out an old car price guide book. Also NADA has an online antique auto value section. Might get a current copy of the regular Hemmings to see what people are asking for similar.....also do check on eBay.

1957 230 bored .030 over.......otherwise stock. I got good results painting it with POR 15 brand "POR 20 High Heat Aluminum" in a can, applied with a 2" brush. My labels are copier copies of originals purchased from "Seaplym" on eBay....attached with glue stick. Have held up fairly well....but you don't want to get them wet. I think they would be more durable if printed on some plasticized or coated paper with adhesive on the back.

I think these tires are a 3' width......don't recall what brand. Bought them already mounted on original style Plymouth steel wheels in order to use original hubcaps and trim rings.

I think my Coker Firestones are around 2 3/4" width white. More a 1950s - early 1960s width. But I prefer it over the wider "gangster" 4 inchers. Just personal choice. I do run tubes in mine as I'm afraid the old wire wheels might have some leaks. And, yes, if using radials - be sure to get the proper radial tubes. As to exactly which tire I would buy next - i'm pretty sure it will be radials.....but don't know which brand. I think this has been a good and helpful discussion so far.

Is there any place that will custom build a gas tank to a person's specs? I have a P15 tank sitting in the garage they could copy. Have seen some Ford tanks in a catalog (O'Reilly's I think) that are close in shape and dimension, but filler neck and float hole would need to be changed.

I think Harold's suggestion may be the best route.

That thing is a fiberglass replica made for a prop in a play.

The regulator is supposed to be polarized too. It tells how in the repair/service manual. In your case, if things are working, you might leave it alone.

Now.....in order for your g- box door to close more flush with the dash, do you need to make your bumpers a bit smaller?? Since you don't have an original spring......you might try to invent one. Any shape and size that will exert a small amount of pressure to push the door open. How about a spring from the middle of a wooden clothespin? Or a small piece of springy metal bent into a sort of L shape, Just tossing out some thoughts. Have you used something like graphite or very lightweight 3-in-1 oil to lube the lock/pushbutton unit?

Might try tapping kind of gently on the solenoid to jar it loose.......

Thanks for the helpful hints. I also have a new fuel pump.

Sometimes technique counts..................

Robert......I see what you mean. I typed this article on my cell phone......and was not wearing my $1.99 reading glasses. So what I thought was right was a letter off........ I would correct it, except I don't think that's possible from this vantage point. Now, if I can get a carb that works good, things will be even better. I gave it new plugs distributor cap and checked firing order a couple days ago. Have also new points, condensor and rotor to install. Changed carbs, but the one I installed has proved to be a problem when starting after sitting overnight. Will try to adjust the float on the previous carb and put it back on. Son in law went thru and did a rebuild but it wasn't doing quite right either. Also need to install new upper right front wheel cylinder and new front brake hoses that are now on hand. Always something to do it seems. But that's part of the fun.

Welcome

There should be a kickdown switch on the side of the carb...which is activated by throttle linkage.

Just a reminder to check to be sure all your connections are tight. My ammeter was showing a constant discharge. So i finally decided to stand on my head and get under the dash...and sure enough, i needed to tighten the nuts on the back of the gauge. Now it shows charging when the car is running. And I've checked things under the hood too. These old 6 volt systems can work just fine if things are in good order.

Andy.....your glovebox and spring are totally different from a P15. Good pics though. Darin......that little piece you found in the box is used on the back side of the dash for holding certain trim items in place......kind of like a washer. If you look back there you should see some more of those things (if someone hasn't removed them and failed to put them back). The glove box door spring on a P15 doesn't look much like a normal spring. You could probably make your own - as someone mentioned earlier. It just exerts enough tension on the lid to make it pop open.

Looking good. Glad to see it's now driveable. That's a 46-48 Plymouth steering wheel and horn center too.

Did your headlights resume working when positive ground was returned.?

Yes.....pos to pos..........neg to neg if jumping. There are instructions in the manual i think for polarizing the voltage regulator and perhaps the generator.

i would take Robert up on his offer.........

I looked at those shocks more carefully today.......they are hitting bottom. When I drove the car last Saturday night, they were banging down hard.....no shock absorbing done. Need what amounts to a shorter shock, I would say No farther away from the original mount than that new bracket is......it looks like the original shock would fit. Anyone have the part number for an original style, original mount shock:? .