BobT-47P15

I have used the Por 20 High Heat aluminum paint made by Por 15......applied with a one or two inch brush. It's a nice shiny aluminum color and has held up well for me. Some people have painted their engine black with chrome ....... some red with black accessories.........or some other color that coordinates with the color of your car. Silver with black accessories on mine...........

Good pics Frank. If that tank is more narrow than the original.......is it taller (or thicker).......than original? If taller......how much? Does it hang down below the car farther? I am at the point where I need to eventually get a new tank.........have looked at some new items sold thru O'Reilly Auto Supply (there is a catalog).... and the closest match seemed to be something for a Jeep or older Mustang. Those would still need certain mods.

Glad all went smoothly for you Joe. It is fun to get out and drive these oldies. Your friend's Chevy looks sharp too.

I installed a pair on my '47 P-15. (More correctly......I had my son in law do it) He used two bolts thru the frame.....with some washers to space the arm out from the frame a fourth to a half inch or so. We then tried two different longer shocks as suggested by some who have already done the process. I don't know what they may have done different, but either of the two mentioned were too long and bottomed very quickly, making bumps worse. I finally went back to a pair of stock shocks which have worked fine so far. They are just a tad on the short side.........so I would say a person should try to find a pair about an inch or maybe inch and a half, longer than stock. The mount is about 4 1/2 inches higher than it was originally. Hope the above makes sense.. Don't recall whether my arms were from a Ford or a Dodge pickup......but either seems to work. Seems lilke the new mount system helps things a little.......but haven't been driving the car enough to really feel like they've had a good test.

I don't know about the rest of the stuff......but I would certainly pay a tow bill and get the car back home. Or get a friend and a good tow rope. I had sediment (rust) from the gas tank that caused my car to act about like that. When you look at the glass bowl on the fuel pump.......is the gas you see a brownish color or gold like gas normally is? You can remove the bowl and there is a filter above it that could be clogged up. In order to get as much crud as possible out of my gas tank without removing it, I went thru the opening for the float.......got a siphon pump at WalMart.......and pumped as much gas as I could out of the tank. Pumped it into a spare 5 gal gas can using a funnel with a coffee filter in it. That trapped a small amount of sediment. Then cleaned the fuel pump filter.....filled with new gas. Has been running OK since then. Lots of other good suggestions above also. Gets kinda confusing, especially if you are like me.....not that great of a mechanic.

Stuff is looking good there, Don. As you say.....the line seems to always be shifting. Will the gas sending unit include a new float, or just connect to your original float?

When I registered my car and got an "antique" license plate in 1973, I used the engine number that was on the title. No problem then in Missouri. So far, I have installed 3 different engines after the original, but until such time as the car would be sold, I will keep going with what I have. Next owner will probably have to change the number used on the title. The number found on the doorpost would likely be the one to use....as that's where people today expect to find the "vin". As I recall, in MO, changing such a thing involves an inspection and a check to see if stolen by the Highway Patrol.

Borrowed from an eBay ad..........horn part for center of wheel............ Do you have access to a parts manual that will show the horn activating parts?

Probably won't help with your problem..........but I can't recall..........is this car Chevron Blue?

Saw these at the Springfield swap meet. A little far out for me, but amusing nonetheless.

Thought I would post this link to my PhotoBucket album ..... a few pics taken at the Springfield swap meet last weekend. Mostly cars in the corral. Not everyone will like all of them.....but some are relevant for here. I think my 'Bucket page is set on "public" for viewing. Click on the link: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/BobT3/library/Spfld%20Swap%208-06%20and%208-04/Spfld%20Swap%208-13/Springfield%20Swap%208-14?sort=3&page=1

Always fun when forum member visits occur. I've even been in Don's garage - in Tennessee.- before the DeSoto engine was installed in the car. It was on the stand and could be run. In fact, I talked with Don on the phone today......he graciously answered some Plymouth related questions that I had. Thanks Don.

On the 4th of July I took the Plymouth to our niece's house, about 10 miles from home. As we started back for home at about 11 pm......the headlights suddenly became very dim.....so I went to the high beam and that provided more light. I finally figured out that the re-wire job on the hood ornament light was the culprit......I think it's double grounded, or something. Anyway......since I unhooked that light the low beam headlights have been fine. The ornament was wired to come on with the low beams.....but not attached to the high. Something else to fix when I get in the mood. Also....I'd like to figure out how to put more light on the speedometer. The gauges are pretty readable at night, and the speedo is lit by those same two bulbs.

Thanks Ed. I guess i could be used on a P15 with a non pressure cap if no better choice available.

It looks like they need to modify that 90 degree angle of the upper neck to 45 degrees.......then it would line up like the original. I bought a used radiator at the swap meet last weekend..........it's for a model newer than a P15 as the overflow tube comes off the filler neck.......for a pressurized system. Not sure which year pressurized systems began. And, I discovered I have a n.o.s. water pump without the two holes at the top for the bypass system. Currently my car is using a bypass system, but would changing to the non-bypass, pressurized type make any real difference??

And - just as information.........Chrysler Corp also produced a non-chrome, painted wire wheel as well. They used the same chrome center cap as the others. I had to buy a 1954 Plymouth Savoy four door to get these wheels, which I need to have media blasted and painted. That car had been sitting since 1983 in some people's back yard.

Back in the 1970s, I was able to purchase a local '55 Chrysler that had a set of the factory chrome wire wheels. The price was reasonable as it was simply a used car at the time. So.....I replaced the wires with regular steel wheels and put the wires on the Plymouth. Sold the Chrysler. The tires are Firestone 6.70 x 15 bias ply purchased from Coker a few years ago. Of course, today, it would be nice to still have the Chrysler New Yorker hardtop with Hemi and continental kit spare.

Well.......I don't know why........but I can't see any picture in Fred's opening post................. I've seen pics of some hot rodded, customized school buses other places.........they are pretty fun and cool.

All you need is lots of imagination plus lots of money........and some fearless soul to drive it.

Good for you..........nice pics. Congratulations.

Sale starts on Sept. 6th. Former Bullock Chevrolet dealership.......200 cars they had saved over the years. My favorite is the 1946-48 Olds woody wagon. No Mopars in the group, but some interesting GM items. Link to the VanDerBrink auction page (click on photos heading) for pics. http://www.vanderbrinkauctions.com/auctions_details.php?detail=147&allimages=NO

I think I have seen in the past a new needle for sale on eBay. Seems like one came off some old speedo I had and didn't seem like it would be so easy to re-attach.

It's hard to get one's investment back on one of these cars......if he indeed had to re-do the chrome, the paint, and the interior. I think the original engine was probably a 218.......the announcer said it had been upgraded to a 230...........so it appears that was not original either. Oh, I think they said it had overdrive too. Personally, if I had the play money and wanted a car of that style, the mods would not bother me. But some folks are sticklers for originality, especially if they want to participate in Plymouth Club events.

Was watching a Mecum auction on tv just now.......I think it was in Anaheim, but not sure. ((((****note......I watched some more and discovered it was Anaheim in 2013))) They ran through a very nice 1952 Plymouth slope-back two door with a 230 flathead, with split manifold and dual carbs. Otherwise, very stock. It was bid up to 12,000 and was a no-sale at that figure. Just posting as you don't see many 50s Mopars at these auctions.

Several years ago, when my rear brakes would lock up if you pushed the pedal harder than normal, it turned out to be the old rear brake hose. Looked perfectly good on the outside, but the inside was collapsing and not letting the fluid return to the M C. Original poster said he had replaced his hoses.......so I would presume that included the rear one. There is a vent on top of the rear axle housing that does get gunked up over time and can be cleaned up. I would release my hung-up brakes by opening the bleeder briefly and letting out a little fluid and reducing the pressure. So I carried a wrench with me at all times then. Replaced rear hose.....end of that problem. Several good ideas have been presented.........good luck with your fix.