BobT-47P15

Way back when....before I met it....the driver of my future 1947 Plymouth P15 evidently ran off the road and into a ditch, over a culvert or big rocks, or some similar mishap. There are some big scratches on the frame......both front and rear passenger side fenders were replaced, body work was done on the passenger door and quarter.......and the rear axle/differential was replaced by what was presumably available at their local salvage yard that would fit. The best guess made so far by a parts vendor is perhaps a rear end from a 1939 Dodge pickup. Actually certain parts seem to apply from 1939 up to 1948 or so. So, a few days ago I stepped on the brake pedal and it went to the floor. A check of the inside of the tires indicated the left rear wheel cylinder was leaking. We removed the wheels and brake drums to inspect. Turns out that due to old age, it's time for new brake shoes.....as well as a pair of new wheel cylinders. The cylinders are larger on one half than the other......one end is 1" diameter, the other end is 1 1/8" diameter. And the tabs on the brake shoes that go into the ends of the wheel cyls are larger/longer than a P15. Found an area auto supply who can send my shoes to Kansas City for re-lining at about $15 per shoe. I have two n.o.s. (or at least kinda old) wheel cylinders that may still be usable. If not. will get some more. AB says he carries 3 varieties similar to mine and one should probably work. Will have to send him one foe a sample if I order. Or.......can send the cyls to White Post Restoration shop who will bore them and install stainless sleeves' My cyl might cost $175 each due to their style....otherwise about $87 each. Then I have just received an inner and outer grease seal for the right rear axle which has been leaking some grease. Fun stuff. I am getting to try out my new 3 1/2 ton floor jack received for Father's Day for the first time. So far, so good. The wheel cyl and shoes this rear end uses. Presumed 1939 Dodge PU rear.....? Grease leak on R R. The car when I got it 1973.

As most of you know, the number stamped on the side of a P15 (46--early 49) Plymouth engine block is what most people and license agencies considered the serial or title-ing number for the car back when. THERE WERE, OF COURSE, SOME EXCEPTIONS. The V I N (vehicle identification number) as used today had not been invented yet. That serial number was also stamped into the left rear portion of the frame.....about 6 inches ahead of the gas tank filler neck......right below where the body comes over the frame. So---the two items should match numerically. And they did.....until someone replaced the motor with either a rebuilt or one from another car. Nowadays -- sometimes the engine number gets used on titles.....or that little tag on the driver's door post. Sometimes if the car was junked or the title lost, the Highway Patrol might issue it's own version of a VIN tag. Or, there is the Briggs body number tag on the firewall. All sorts of possibilities. When I recently removed my left rear tire to work on the brakes.....I saw that frame number again.....thought I would post about it for anyone who might have missed earlier missives regarding the location. First of all -- those numbers are usually covered by dirt, rust, road tar, paint........or all of the preceeding. The numbers are put on the frame with what I presume to be a hammer and number/letter punches.....so they are indented. You can use a wire brush, wire wheel for the drill, sandpaper, some type solvent......whatever will remove the crud and expose the numbers. The thing always begins with "P15" followed by several numbers. I'm not sure what that string of numbers means, other than being a serial #. By locating your frame number, you can at least know what the original number was, whether it is useful for any more than that in today's world is questionable. A couple pics of my number,,,,am going to clean it up a bit more soon. Hope this article was a little helpful. Any further comments welcome.

I found some rear motor mounts I have had for a while.....you can make a small indent in the rubber with a thumbnail......seem maybe not as rock hard as some others described. Am not sure where I got them now. I see some numbers molded into the top of the mounts....don't know what they represent. Added Information: I found a box in which I received a pair of motor mounts back in Sept of 2014 from "Jackson's Oldtime Parts--- Engine, Suspension and Brake Parts for older cars" located in Duluth, Minn Phone (218) 624-5791 and spoke with a man named Rod Who I'm guessing is an owner. He said the part number I gave him from his invoice of 5 years ago indicated upper mounts. Where I got my lower mounts and front mount, I don't recall. Based on comments about hardness of mounts available today, I pressed my thumbnail against the upper mount and it would make a small indention. Apparently Jackson's still has some P15 mounts, but I have no idea how many. They do not put out a catalog nor have an internet store. I asked Rod if he knew where these motor mounts are made nowadays and he mentioned some seem to be made in India and Turkey. Apparently he buys such things thru the Anchor Company. Rod is not familiar, he said, with the P15-D24 Forum. So, there is a chance the mounts he has might be a little softer material than some others....but no guarantee. He will have to tell you what his price is for those items. I appreciate him taking some time to talk about the mounts.

I have a factory Parts Manual purchased on eBay long ago plus several other manuals. This repair manual seems slightly more appropo for the P15 than the red, white and grey one (although I have never sat down and compared the content). Any of these books are helpful.

Very nice car. Now I see we are down to less whitewall to scrub on......LOL

This is pretty darn cool......finding out about the "Special" designation and trim after all these years. Makes you wonder what else we may not know yet.

I sent an email to the fellow in Catawissa, MO. I looked at pictures of his place and mainly saw 60s and 70s cars. Did see one probably 54 Plymouth. He confirmed those were the years he deals in and has nothing for a 47 Plymouth. F Y I. I see that Catawissa is a small place out in the countryside about 20 or so miles from St. Louis. Live and learn.

I think those can be used in your car....pretty sure there are some old posts if you can dig them up. Hopefully someone can give you a helpful answer.

I think you can purchase the needed style valve stems from either a tire shop or a truck place. Several people are running radials on original style rims. Be sure to check the rivets joining the wheel center and outer......wire brush the inside of rim for smoothness where tire contacts it....paint the inside of the rim so it can act as a sealer. There have been some previous posts on this topic. I use radial tubes in my tires as I dont trust my wire wheels to not leak. Have had no problems with that system. The radials definitely improve handling......just harder to turn at low speeds like parking.

Thanks for your input. I found out about a place today in Kansas City, MO that relines brake shoes for about $15 each......think I will do that on the shoes. Now will look for grease seals for the right rear axle. That's why am trying to determine what year axle I have. The car was in a accident many years before I bought it and the rear axle/differential was damaged and replaced. There was nobody around to ask as I bought the car from a salvage dealer. So I have been going by guesses made by various people.

There is list of colors on a Plymouth P15, apparently provided by the company. Things that are gray are: Under Body, Inside Floorpan, Underside of Hood, Underside of Trunk Lid, Front Stone Guards, Rear Stone Guards, Front Fender Center Panel, Grille Panel, All Fenders (inside), Inside Trunk Area, Trunk Hinges, Trunk Wheelwells (Trunk Side), Backside of Wheels. Black semi gloss: Starter, Generator, Distributor Body, Wire Loom Holder, Coil Holder, Coil, Air Breather, Air Cleaner, Air Cleaner Steady brace, Breather Brace, Valve Chamber Vent and Tube, Fuel Pump Shield, Fan and Pulley, Oil Filter, Filter Brace, Steering Box, Entire Frame, Brake Master Cylinder, Brake Lines, Inner Front Fender Shields, Radiator Side Shields, Engine Dust Shields, Hood Lock Plate Brace, Horns and Bracket, Bumper Supports, Radiator Support, Radiator Cross Bar. Silver: Block, Oil Pan, Head, Water Pump, Oil Pump, Front Engine Mounts, Manifolds, Clutch Housing, Transmission, Oil Filler Tube, Dipstick Tube, Front Pulley, Thermostat Housing, Heater Bypass Hose. Unpainted: Fuel Pump, Carb, Fuel Lines, Oil and Vacuum Lines, Accelerator Linkage, Shift Rods.

Thanks PT81Jan. Apparently the axle is about same size as original.....maybe geared a little lower than a normal P15..….but it will run up to 70 mph when pressed. Main reason I want to know is for replacing brakes and bearing seals.

Hi. Anyone here have a 1939 or 1940 Dodge pickup with original rear axle? Just trying to determine what model axle is under my '47 Plymouth. If you have such an axle, what are the numbers stamped on it. Mine has: 663473--12 if that means anything to anyone. Any info appreciated. Thanks. Bob

Many years ago my P15 was in some type of accident.....my guess is running off the road and perhaps hitting a culvert. They replaced the original rear axle with one we think came from a 1939 Dodge pickup. Are there any numbers on that housing which might serve to identify from what the axle and differential came? Any info appreciated. Bob edit:: in P15 parts manual,,,,,CASE, differential, (all except station wagon) : 670 583 Numbers found on diff now in car (which we think is a 39 pickup item) : 663 473 - 12. Any thoughts?

Tod....is it legal to say "Look in the want ads as I have some items for sale"?

There is a list out there in the resource listings somewhere specifying original colors for such things as the engine and other items. I think mine is fairly close to original with everything being black and silver. I used POR 15 high heat aluminum from a can, applied with a couple small brushes (1 and 2 inch). That has held up better for me than any previously used rattle cans. Other opinions will vary. (orange was not used on a 54 Plym engine....they looked just like a P15 motor.)

I used 00 gauge, made up by a local battery store. I had a third cable made as I use a battery disconnect switch that is mounted on my firewall........I reach below the dash to operate it. Also have an additional small ground from rear of block to the body.

I read an editorial in Hemmings Classic Car recently where the editor, who has been fighting cancer, is advocating that if you can't sell your stockpile of extra parts....give them away to people you meet who can use them. That way they will hopefully get used instead of your widow and kids having them hauled to the dump. And, you can ask the recipient to "pay" for the stuff by making a donation to a charity. Not such a bad idea in my book.

You can often use some of the late model chrome clips that are scored so you can break off pieces to make them fit the chrome trim. Otherwise, there are some vendors out there who probably have the original style......look on eBay for one thing.

I bought an aluminum water tube at a swap meet........should I use it or buy a regular metal one?

Greg is right. I painted the firewall and underside of the hood body color as well as the underside of the trunk lid.

I don't know the shock mount length I used, but I will say I'm still using my original length shocks. Sometime back, some people said they used longer shocks. They gave me the model numbers so I bought a pair and discovered they were too long....hit bottom real quick. Tried re-using originals and they seem to do ok. Could probably use a shock one inch longer actually. Hope this info will help some.

Looks very good

And I have seen a couple washers inserted on each bolt to raise the latch plate. However I think Tim's way is correct.

I use 215 -75-15 radial B F Goodrich tires from Coker on 1955 Chrysler narrow wire wheels. I like the look of that size. And now they make a narrow tread width radial close to size and look of bias ply. Neither is cheap.