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BobT-47P15

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Everything posted by BobT-47P15

  1. I have a factory Parts Manual purchased on eBay long ago plus several other manuals. This repair manual seems slightly more appropo for the P15 than the red, white and grey one (although I have never sat down and compared the content). Any of these books are helpful.
  2. Very nice car. Now I see we are down to less whitewall to scrub on......LOL
  3. This is pretty darn cool......finding out about the "Special" designation and trim after all these years. Makes you wonder what else we may not know yet.
  4. I sent an email to the fellow in Catawissa, MO. I looked at pictures of his place and mainly saw 60s and 70s cars. Did see one probably 54 Plymouth. He confirmed those were the years he deals in and has nothing for a 47 Plymouth. F Y I. I see that Catawissa is a small place out in the countryside about 20 or so miles from St. Louis. Live and learn.
  5. I think those can be used in your car....pretty sure there are some old posts if you can dig them up. Hopefully someone can give you a helpful answer.
  6. I think you can purchase the needed style valve stems from either a tire shop or a truck place. Several people are running radials on original style rims. Be sure to check the rivets joining the wheel center and outer......wire brush the inside of rim for smoothness where tire contacts it....paint the inside of the rim so it can act as a sealer. There have been some previous posts on this topic. I use radial tubes in my tires as I dont trust my wire wheels to not leak. Have had no problems with that system. The radials definitely improve handling......just harder to turn at low speeds like parking.
  7. Thanks for your input. I found out about a place today in Kansas City, MO that relines brake shoes for about $15 each......think I will do that on the shoes. Now will look for grease seals for the right rear axle. That's why am trying to determine what year axle I have. The car was in a accident many years before I bought it and the rear axle/differential was damaged and replaced. There was nobody around to ask as I bought the car from a salvage dealer. So I have been going by guesses made by various people.
  8. There is list of colors on a Plymouth P15, apparently provided by the company. Things that are gray are: Under Body, Inside Floorpan, Underside of Hood, Underside of Trunk Lid, Front Stone Guards, Rear Stone Guards, Front Fender Center Panel, Grille Panel, All Fenders (inside), Inside Trunk Area, Trunk Hinges, Trunk Wheelwells (Trunk Side), Backside of Wheels. Black semi gloss: Starter, Generator, Distributor Body, Wire Loom Holder, Coil Holder, Coil, Air Breather, Air Cleaner, Air Cleaner Steady brace, Breather Brace, Valve Chamber Vent and Tube, Fuel Pump Shield, Fan and Pulley, Oil Filter, Filter Brace, Steering Box, Entire Frame, Brake Master Cylinder, Brake Lines, Inner Front Fender Shields, Radiator Side Shields, Engine Dust Shields, Hood Lock Plate Brace, Horns and Bracket, Bumper Supports, Radiator Support, Radiator Cross Bar. Silver: Block, Oil Pan, Head, Water Pump, Oil Pump, Front Engine Mounts, Manifolds, Clutch Housing, Transmission, Oil Filler Tube, Dipstick Tube, Front Pulley, Thermostat Housing, Heater Bypass Hose. Unpainted: Fuel Pump, Carb, Fuel Lines, Oil and Vacuum Lines, Accelerator Linkage, Shift Rods.
  9. Thanks PT81Jan. Apparently the axle is about same size as original.....maybe geared a little lower than a normal P15..….but it will run up to 70 mph when pressed. Main reason I want to know is for replacing brakes and bearing seals.
  10. Hi. Anyone here have a 1939 or 1940 Dodge pickup with original rear axle? Just trying to determine what model axle is under my '47 Plymouth. If you have such an axle, what are the numbers stamped on it. Mine has: 663473--12 if that means anything to anyone. Any info appreciated. Thanks. Bob
  11. Many years ago my P15 was in some type of accident.....my guess is running off the road and perhaps hitting a culvert. They replaced the original rear axle with one we think came from a 1939 Dodge pickup. Are there any numbers on that housing which might serve to identify from what the axle and differential came? Any info appreciated. Bob edit:: in P15 parts manual,,,,,CASE, differential, (all except station wagon) : 670 583 Numbers found on diff now in car (which we think is a 39 pickup item) : 663 473 - 12. Any thoughts?
  12. Tod....is it legal to say "Look in the want ads as I have some items for sale"?
  13. There is a list out there in the resource listings somewhere specifying original colors for such things as the engine and other items. I think mine is fairly close to original with everything being black and silver. I used POR 15 high heat aluminum from a can, applied with a couple small brushes (1 and 2 inch). That has held up better for me than any previously used rattle cans. Other opinions will vary. (orange was not used on a 54 Plym engine....they looked just like a P15 motor.)
  14. I used 00 gauge, made up by a local battery store. I had a third cable made as I use a battery disconnect switch that is mounted on my firewall........I reach below the dash to operate it. Also have an additional small ground from rear of block to the body.
  15. I read an editorial in Hemmings Classic Car recently where the editor, who has been fighting cancer, is advocating that if you can't sell your stockpile of extra parts....give them away to people you meet who can use them. That way they will hopefully get used instead of your widow and kids having them hauled to the dump. And, you can ask the recipient to "pay" for the stuff by making a donation to a charity. Not such a bad idea in my book.
  16. You can often use some of the late model chrome clips that are scored so you can break off pieces to make them fit the chrome trim. Otherwise, there are some vendors out there who probably have the original style......look on eBay for one thing.
  17. I bought an aluminum water tube at a swap meet........should I use it or buy a regular metal one?
  18. Greg is right. I painted the firewall and underside of the hood body color as well as the underside of the trunk lid.
  19. I don't know the shock mount length I used, but I will say I'm still using my original length shocks. Sometime back, some people said they used longer shocks. They gave me the model numbers so I bought a pair and discovered they were too long....hit bottom real quick. Tried re-using originals and they seem to do ok. Could probably use a shock one inch longer actually. Hope this info will help some.
  20. And I have seen a couple washers inserted on each bolt to raise the latch plate. However I think Tim's way is correct.
  21. I use 215 -75-15 radial B F Goodrich tires from Coker on 1955 Chrysler narrow wire wheels. I like the look of that size. And now they make a narrow tread width radial close to size and look of bias ply. Neither is cheap.
  22. Nice car. I see a little period spiffing up with the lakes pipes and dummy teardrop spots. Are the pipes connected? Welcome to the forum.Back in the 70s I had a 51 DeSoto hardtop with the factory a/c unit in the trunk and clear plastic vent tubes in the package tray.
  23. I had my old light wired to the low beam side and it turned off when high beam used.
  24. Another rubber item that usually needs replacement is these hood bumpers. I got mine from Dave Kruse....his are the correct thickness. He also makes gas tank grommets and some other good items. Dave Kruse 8424 Avenida Leon Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730 Telephone: +1.909.239.7932 ask for Dave email: krusn64@aol.com Makes some small rubber parts for older Plymouths. He writes “We are looking for other samples of small rubber parts years 32-56 Plymouth, Dodge, Desoto and Chrysler to make replacement parts just like or as close to OEM parts.”
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