Plymouthy Adams

actually it is advised that when doing brakes, the axle is done complete.....so if doing a front left...you will do the front right, you do not have to do front and rear at the same time....it is only normal to shoot the piston from the cylinder if you apply brakes with no drums on to stop the shoes from over travel. If your cylinders are not pitted...one should be able to rebuild with no problems. And yes, right is typically the passenger side in the good ole US....left and right surely beats near side, far side in terms of placement.

often if you do not assign something a value, neither will the next person...for sure...place it out for sale and not locked it place...will be gone...want garbage gone during a trash truck strike...put it in a box with a ribbon on it in back of your truck....now next mans problem....we have way too many folks who would rather steal than work....

ah yeah.....the Hannibal Lecter look...

Don, this saddens me to learn of all this.....I knew you had sold the car earlier. It is a very gracious offer to the forum at large and hopefully someone close will respond and receive the items and appreciate them for what they are and what they meant to you. I know it had been some time since you last posted. Tim

if you happy without the spring, I am happy for you.....millions of replacement hoses sold with springs that NEVER get vacuum filled on servicing. That would greatly reduce the manufactures cost in production if this was their sole need for existence and I only use this one point as they cut costs at every corner.....I will use the hose, you are free not to....it will never do any harm being there.

while the hose as molded is made to resist collapse, did it have an internal spring in place or maybe you transferred the other one....?

my favorite bumper sticker..... MAKE AMERICA BEAUTIFUL.....JUNK A CHEVY

Just think of it as taking another Ford off the road.......lol

you should be 1/4 inch and this is your style as original in regard to the wing and the manner it is affixed to the stem.

yes coolant drain, common item, readily available, order by thead size, these are pipe thread....

appears to be the petcock with the wing broken off of it....

it has a lot to do with supply and demand but also a lot (much) has to do with the licensing fees and such. Ma Mopar makes a bundle from this I am told by repop folks when I inquire of an item of interest not being found. With the higher fees one must have a large market for the repopped item to come out ahead given their sample back to the licensing agent meets production approval. I fully understand the cost of the hobby...pay to play often is very high on some ticket items. I have cars whose items here where the parts are NLA, not repopped and NOS is dear and high price...one hood emblem for the 62 Polara, 1700.00 asking....while I consider that off the wall...that is the current price and I am not sure it ever sold. Supply and demand but like most owners, the dang car finds favor in my eyes. This pretty much in a nutshell also is what sets each model out of 'popularity' Many folks that have been down the road a way with any old car in this hobby quickly learns what cars are supported and those that are not. Supported cars are more numerous by this standard and often higher prices as they have the less crusty trim and interiors. They also for the most part have a pedigree (number match) which is great for collectors and museum pieces. Could go on but most everyone here knows the drill. Just not sure folks know that Ma Mopar shoots their loyal followers in the foot on way too many things. Even with the LBC's I own, same car in the motherland is more on pedigree than condition. With the MOT and documentation permanent to the car...this is understood and they cannot grasp the idea that each state here have their own version of registration requirements and allowances.

I wish we could get such quality fit for our old mopars as found for the little LBC I am currently working....makes one wonder the very prices for sure. Here in this picture are a set of stainless window frames to replace my painted as found on the commercial vehicles. The vent latch lever is well made chrome plated combined with the two seals, less than 30.00 dollars combine per vent...the vents are on par in size to our cars by the way...

Let me see if this will upload....my camera bit the big one today.....

I believe you may be referring to the vent division seal that fits the vertical upright between the vent and window glass. The seal you want is an L shape....I ordered from the major company that touts they reign king of reproduction rubber only to find it not close. I also ordered it from a certain supplier who on the phone states as how this is special and his is made to order, got the worse class generic junk from him. I had to resort to making my own...you may have to do the same but IF you do find the proper shape and fit...I would love to know where found.

to me, that would be the most worthwhile experiment of the new century.....JUST....do not allow the cats to return to the US if they survive the landing in the new country you testing the theory. In truth I do not have issues with cats or responsible cat owners. I have issue with cat owners who allow their cats to run loose, (go feral if you will) no vaccinations and not spayed etc. Between three houses in the general neighborhood I counted 35 cats....and this was just those easily and readily seen in the few minutes I walked down the street. Even if they get hit by a car....the owners pick them up form the road...no....!!! it is other caring citizens that does this.

Sniper, again, you blew right by the question mark...I was merely trying to ask if the one he is rebuilding or the one from Mass failed at the pin.....I challenge you to show me anywhere that I stated Bernbaum is the only one with pump failures....I never mentioned anything about pins failing period...I again was trying to clarify which of his two pumps was failing at the pin......glad you have had a great relationship with the outfit. I do wish I could say better about my parts order from the company. The pump pin failure has been an ongoing issue for years and from many retailers. As to who supplies the retailers, I have no clue.

There are many ways to skin a cat and often none of them are wrong....mostly it is the concept of different/new that we need to get our head around. Did you grasp the tear drop reference? Not an artist but the concept of the tear drop hook..

times are tough right now......hope you have it listed on other sales sites......surely you have had a nibble or two...

Sniper, in case you failed to read....I mentioned the pump from Mass. (which is Bernbaum)...I just do not like using his name as he is in my opinion a waste of time to ever deal with....so I mentioned the state he is in.....I would burn my car before I would bernbaum it.

your first picture sure faked me out....not much detail in that pic..but in this pic, is that a yankee slot also in the screw head? Yeah Torx has been around for a bit....the Air Force uses an Apex bit, they very special as well.

so I understand the one from Mass. failed at the pin....? you providing more details now....but, stick with my original statement, right parts, right technique you will have a RIGHT pump.

question is, was it in serviceable condition when you pulled it, if so and with proper technique in building and quality replacement parts...I don't foresee where there should be an issue. I also do not see Torx screws but I do see what appears to be Phillips head.

do like so many other makers do with a common clevis and spring combination....let the spring not only act as a spring but let it also be the retainer for the clevis pin...(lose the cotter pin)...I do recommend a washer between spring and clevis if you do it in this fashion.... added....I have in many places seen the tear-drop added where the tear drop is the washer spring hook combination.....

Marc, do a search, this has been discussed in detail a number of times....