Plymouthy Adams

when cutting corners means......you did not cut a corner.....

very little in bolt on replacement parts for the old Mopar....few are slowly being remade but at some very significant cost and often at the heckling of the audience though they don't even try to fill the niche at all. I sport an aluminum radiator in D19...but I do not have a 6 slug in there either. Sits forward of the shell and definitely you make your own mounts and with the nose of the D19, the service cap is inline as the normal cap is while accessible, not truly ergonomic...There are many aftermarket radiators one could easily slip into place if you are truly out to being proactive. Radiators today are made to be thrown away...more and more old shops are closing...many should, they never flow test anymore so have no clue if what they are doing in line of repairs is effective. Wonder what warranty you will get for the 725.00 you will spend...? Not being negative, just wondering the service after the sale.

am sure you are right 100%, same as most any convertible maker....but yet the floors usually get carpet and while the seats may be in good shape down the hands of time....it is not much good if dragging the pavement after falling though rotten floors.....lol then the real issue, it is all about what each person wants regardless to if or if not stock....with the proposed changes by this owner one can assume originality is not a major concern here. I live in the south....my convertible I purposely put fabric covered seats over that of the stock vinyl as that will blister the back on most legs when entering a vert wearing shorts among other improvements in comfort. While Lucas stated in regard to his lighting when pointed out it is a high fail system, he stated a gentleman never motors at night. Well for vert owners, a gentleman never escorts his maiden in a rainstorm.

it was loose because the prior maintenance action was not done correctly....and yes you have the right nut description and torque specs.

there are a few low cost choices...some may be right around the corner from you in a thrift shop or consignment shop. Often drapery fabric (little heavier weave) can be had in colors to suit your needs. Lined drapes provide non faded panels more-so over thinner single layered cloth. Some table cloths are also a nice heavy linen that will look and wear well. If you strike out there you still have other lower cost avenues as most fabric shops have discounted fabric by the yard and also never overlook picking among remnants at the local upholstery shops. They sell at discounted prices as they are often overrun with remnants. Anyway, just a few options you have available to you in most towns across America.

did you prove your flasher and bulbs with by-passing of the switch and or read the switch with an ohm meter....I see your comment hot wire to the switch but nothing on bypassing it.

me either, luck with me for sure....could never find that third chunk...glad the mulching cover was on else who know how far it could have been flung. I had already envisioned removing the lock, picking it for to rotate to allow the pin to release the cylinder and then use another key to tailor the tumblers and then cut the proper blank from that donor pattern. For an added tip.....the ignition key was a 131 and the trunk was 130....they have the same key ways on each side BUT....pay attention to the tip to stop when cutting...either blank can make either key by checking the tip to stop when setting the blank in place.

So Andy, I now know the area they target to market the larger drive tool....lol In truth, I do not recall ever seeing a 1/2 for sale on the jobber trucks way back in the day when I bought mine, (1975 to be exact). And, even today at flea markets, pawn shops and the swap meets, when I see these, they have been the 3/8 drive. For certain, you should be able to lay down the two pound hammer and get the 8lb sledge out...now if I were still up in the northern snow country, likely they may be in abundance there due to road salts and folks needing to bust larger frame nuts and bolts loose. But, the screwdriver tips are the same sized body on both units per my online search for tips. Either will work for certain. I still believe in using the torch to heat blind screws however. I rarely have used my driver except on door hinges with an occasional use on Brit brake drums where they have the two Phillips head screws in place, these can get a bit nasty to remove some times.

unfortunately, you will have to either flush grind the roll of the rivet or drill it...with the mount from the body already cut it is ruined so drill or grind. You will go back with a replacement pin...don't expect to find these lying about willy nilly.....

my book did not state drum size only the length of the linging and being some 2+ inches extra lining length, I figured it would have had the larger drums....thanks for the info..going to pencil that into my margins

your call........I have never had a screw not come out with the method I described above and using my impact driver that is a 3/8 drive....

Phillips are in many standard sizes and tip profiles...the tip you would use will fill the cross in the Phillips head fully and snugly...this model door screw will use a blunt tip....profile is such as bottom bit...the sharp pointed tip above will be for smaller head screws you can look to e-bay for some models and pictures of these and while I do not push ebay for buying...I do recommend it for see what is out there and available...use this search... 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set

bummer...as my bud would say, easy come, easy go but never is it easy for me. I have a couple of those leather key holders here from different Chrysler dealerships. My lastest keycase was given to me still NIB. It is leatherette (grained vinyl) with gold lettering: SUNBEAM FINE CARS BY ROOTES

you would be wise to heat these screws a couple cycles with a good torch to help disintegrate the rust and then use an impact driver to break them loose using the proper bit that will fit snugly in the Phillips head of the screw. Numerous companies make these, they are reversible, ensure you have it oriented correctly by twisting and locking the mechanism in the direction you wish to turn the screw. These last a lifetime...still using mine after 45 years.

but only after the lawn mower found them first when mulching leaves...guess they dropped onto the lawn when digging the Tiger keys out when playing musical cars...thankfully I was able to locate the two of three pieces needed to duplicate....my blank keys arrived this morning and so I ventured to the shop and got out my key cutter and processed keys for three sets. I so hate losing the original aluminum DPCD logo...but I did cut a signet key for the doors and ignition.

Thumbing through a folder and I came across the pic of a spindle nut I referred to in one of the posts that I wish the nuts on the Plymouth were as simple as these....a picture to show the manner of locking nut I was referring to.....

The spare is in a curtained compartment behind the driver...there is a locking compartment behind the passenger.

my book shows the Saratoga having 2" wide linings at 3/16 thick...

TV...in the shop....??? Well I guess I am guilty, as I got a 32" for free and connected my DVD player I had spare to it, put it in place and put a cover over it and that is where you will find it today....not in use at all....only viewed it to test the setup. Now stereo...that is all I need and the only clock I need is in the paint booth for timing the flash between coats. The paint booth was used for the longest time as overflow storage as I remodeled a bit in the house...I have the two commercial sewing machines now moved to the room above the garage and I am out there now and almost got it back to where I can drive in a car again and do some paint spraying. Objective is to try to have this end of the shop cleaned and operational by the weekend.

I cut the extra hole as aligned with the new service location for the sender. The original cover is in place and the wiring routes as normal there but the new hole cover is merely a 4 x 4 electrical handy-box cover with the preformed (raised) 3 inch opening for large outlets that I then welded a section of a metal over to enclose it. The raised section of the handy-box cover provides sufficient room for the electrical terminals. Just a quick means to cover the access without a whole lot of fabrication by using a ready made item. Will be covered by carpet so no one is the wiser. Might work for you also.

I have the original tank in my vehicle but did make a cradle just the same for install. Reason for the cradle was to relocate the tank to the center of the car body utilizing original mount holes thus changing the offset so I could install dual exhaust. Being a business coupe and flat floor, this was easily done. As for the cradle...this may or may not give you an idea of what it may need.

that rings true today, maybe not so much the car...bur for certain the drivers...

yes, but say you had to drive that car one day for 700-1000 miles....it's doable....the power grid in America is not set up for the total electric highways at the rate of daily travel on the roads that is per day...we would have a grid melt down....and how in the world green will support green...while changing..it is not changing fast enough for the goals and targets placed on public and manufacturering. It will I guess get there either by force or failure to supply...

had to crunch him over to another picture format.....

too much and maybe damage your seal...at the point you are now with noise, the failure is in motion....just biding your time right now,.