Plymouthy Adams

unfortunately, with the old and faded wiring going back all those years, a picture will do you little good, and as the harness is bundled, tracing it point to point can only be done at this late date by reading the schematic. If you have problems with schematics, I would suggest you get a person familiar explain the routing and numbering point to point so you can tackle this, otherwise, it may be best to let a knowledgeable friend/shop assist you.

looks like a Browning.....

any of your local big box stored, rock auto if you like online buying, be sure to quote the distributor number to ensure you get the correct parts...

most of the oil breather caps are INDEXED with a slot and it should not be a twist but a pulling up motion to remove. The reason for the index was for some of the caps are open at the back and helps draft instead of adding a positive crankcase ventilation...

sometimes the dipstick is behind the steering wheel...? couldn't resist….seriously look in the vicinity of the distributor. Hopefully it is not missing...

Mick was a good character.....we could use a few more movies like these.

I always buy a PUG calendar....!

Only a notch for the oil filter....do use a button filter and not the full length unit, that way the cross member is barely violated...the mounts are so easy to weld in...what makes them the mount of preference for older cars....again, I have a 41 and you speaking 50 but little change in frame style so should also be a slam dunk for you...you will have other issues to deal with....common stuff with any and basically all retrofits. As always, you will need the basic tools skills time and laydown area to do the deed. If farming out, it is always best to leave this choice up to your fabricator.

got original 59 big block mounts in my 41 with 383

I have a 22nd edition of the handbook....that sucker is thick and rich....

Sunnine brand has been very good per my experience....I also buy the clear and not milky shield....

nice machinist chest.....the wooden ones are hard to beat. That would be great for any shop/tool oriented person to own. My go to machinist tool chest is a spray type felt liner all metal Kennedy and am glad to have that...! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-H-Gerstner-Sons-Oak-Wood-Model-W52-11-Drawer-Machinist-Tool-Box-Chest/312940979550?hash=item48dcbc655e:g:weYAAOSwsnVeGkOJ

I rewired my brothers shop for him...a 24 x 24 and installed the screw base with appropriate screw in LED bulbs...I wired the lights also for 3-way left side on one switch, right on another and as such made it user friendly. First time in years he had been able to really see in that building. Not at all expensive to do either. BUT if you have tube fixtures in place already, as in my shop I have many 3 and 4 tube fixtures, I removed the ballast and did LED tube upgrades, I elected to buy the single end as it is also quick and easy to modify the fixture, takes the weight out of the fixtures also making easy up and down to service when the time comes. As many here probably do/did, my lights plug into outlets built into the overhead of the shop and controlled by wall switches per the four zones. Best bang for the buck, the LEDs are not any more than quality fluorescent replacement tubes today. bought mine in box of 100 and another box of 25.

\ you need to supplement his meal just a bit...nothing better than gopher and grits...

gutter railing is available....you can find listings on e-bay....with a good shrinker and stretcher set up one can easily modify these to their need, bend and shape your gutter if you have a small brake.....these are easily made in smaller sections of 24 inch and welded as needed.

You can also go to Hobby Lobby, buy the material are easily and cheaply cut your own set. By the simple fact many places do not sell these for a variety of cars unless serviced with a new lens, this is pretty much 90% of how I get all my gaskets.

I agree, often the hardest part of the job is committing yourself to the task.....

glad you were able to locate this....the book does not go into great details on some of this stuff but the heater hose routing from the engine, to the valve, on to the heater core and out/back to the pump inlet is clearly shown.

D is Dodge, series is 39 and my book does not show this model and likely a Canadian model number, 202543 is the engine serial number...

if female feline, you got Francis, Anna, Ivy, Matilda, Delphine and Isabelle

various numbers, some identify the series and serial number. others are casting numbers...perhaps you wish to ask of a specific number?

I saw that and looked a bit beyond, it seems that crack is on the drivers side glass...but then, I could be mistaken with that observation

usual methods of dropping the rear involves block and the mounting position of the leaves, shock plate and shocks are not disturbed... ADDED NOTE....I in my post above I had forgot about some of the shock mounts that is on the very perch itself as welded to the axle tube...in this set up, the shock stationary position will be moved closer to the top mount of the shock...hope I did not add some confusion with the above statement....IF you are not going Baja'ing and or evading Roscoe P. Coltrane, you should be ok...and if you used a shorter shock this would also limit the drop of the axle if you had to change a tire alongside the road...

Like any tool, the higher the quality in manufacture, the better the tool will work. Any and all of these require proper backing to prevent distortion in use. Proper set up is a must. Strength of the material is extremely important, not saying a pan lid will not work, but, it was designed as a pan lid. Well made disc is .060 thick stainless. A heavier pan bottom of stainless would be more to my idea of a substitute and the centering of the mounting hole is of importance in mounting and use. As with any tool there is a principal in application, there is experience gained by use...I would not expect an "excellence" right out of the box but you will see in first application how it works. Access to both sides of the damage yield faster more excellent results. Virtually eliminates bumping metal in many applications. Technique in use is important and learning this take a bit of time. I am not what I would call skilled, but it sure beats hammer/dolly and other shrinking methods hands down in my opinion. And, it does not take much for the friction to generate heat, careful when wiping you do not expose bare skin to just prepped surface...definite ouch conditions exist...

Any spacer you put behind the pulley would also require a spacer to the water pump and generator. I would think that your mount is not properly positioned to take advantage of the most rearward positioning of the support bracket. As mentioned, the mount base is slotted...and not sure if your upper mount is a reproduction that may have a bit of error is bolt placement attributing to the alignment issue. I would think your rear mounts are pretty much fixed and mark the position of your engine and looking at your picture, you have plenty of forward frame to pulley space for changing the belt. Again, look closely at the position of the front support in regard to upper mount and position of the base on the frame. Your picture also shows a forward creep of the base at the bottom mount by looking at the very rust indicator left behind. Suggest loosening, shove the mount toward the engine at the bottom the tighten, this small amount at the bottom equal a lot of distance lost in the middle of the run.