Plymouthy Adams

JB Weld has an extreme heat epoxy that would withstand the temp of the baking chamber. Perhaps the data sheet from that product is available online to see if it stays solid through the range of heat, will expand and contract the same as the metal it is applied onto. I would ask the shop doing the power coast if they have any experience with this or at worse, allow you to run a repaired piece through with a batch of stuff going through the oven to test its ability to withstand the process. Small item, small time and material investment, possible big time returns for your efforts.

listen to Merle, I have about zero experience with the older Dodge truck.....I usually do car speak and forget the page I am on at times....however the modern Cherokee axle should be hub centric

pitting depends on the polarity as to which side of the contact transfers the metal......as for the 40% I do not think that is anything near true....and only if racing would you may come close to any point shy of full performance as a daily driver performs....and there is not a person on this forum winding their car out to peak RPM in each gear with sustained runs of 90+ MPH and if so,...their ignition is well beyond stock for this application.

that is a good price....usually the avg. going lower end is 9.99 each.....

most wheels today in the aftermarket will have spigot rings to meet the specs of the car it is going on and also if you into mix and match of the species...spigot rings are also available for this...….going up is possible...going down is not.....as in ford to Mopar...nix...Mopar to Ford, spigot ring....

hub...mopar hubs have remained basically unchanged in this aspect.....watch some sellers, they advertise centric...but have no clue what it really is...

would be an easy task for you to put a modern mount ring on it.....make provisions for a quick wing nut mounting under the hood, prewire with clip in leads for quick hot wire and you be home to address the permanent fix with little to no down time along the road....it is always wise to be proactive and have a contingency plan in place.....as for the south, been a very mild winter thus far....I do not complain....we have had our share of the wet..but sure beats any thought of snow...my hat is off to those that stick it out up north.....great place to hunt and fish...lol

there seems to be a ghost floating over the transmission....

get a coil that is 12 volt external resistor…...these are ALL basic 6 volt coil....as for the negative and positive...it could care less at the polarity as long as it is connected...BUT...as the polarity is wear related...manner of material transfer on the point contacts...do hook it up polarity as that of the old coil you are replacing it and not points along with it........if + ground then + side goes to the distributor...negative to the supply......

I would highly recommend not changing fluid types until such time you are doing an entire system upgrade or overhaul...that way there is never a question of contamination or comingling.

I have a few Harbor Freight moving blankets, best bang for the buck for a host of jobs in, out and all around the shop...came in handy when camping also as chair cushions...I keep a couple in the van in the storage lockers provided in the floor.

this may suit your need...pricy, but it all is PAY TO PLAY https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Logo-Grip-Fender-Cover-22-x-34-non-slip-material/391714201742?hash=item5b33fc608e:g:DyAAAOSw32lYsHT1 my go to fender protector is a Summit Racing.... Summit also has a host of brands/model on their website......

many folks turn to the DIY at home Killer Chrome kit offered by Alsa…..allows for easy repair of the pits as it is designed to apply to a gloss black pre-finish...may be of interest for you to look at this product.

I just don't get into a lot of stuff like the calendars and what not, I have never had a calendar in my shop much less a car oriented one and the only area in my shop with anything like a clock is in the paint booth for monitoring flash times between coats...shop is for getting lost in, not for counting the days and hours...

that part of interior dress they got right, this would be normal wear and tear on the Mercury...?

watch John Wick, especially when his gifted Charger is pushed into the empty drydock......they don't even seem a bit concerned over correctness....guess they figure you looking for John and where he got to and not the car's engine and transmission.....

They used the Plymouth so they could depend on getting the shot in one take...….at least that is how I read the crime scene....the rest of you can look at however wrong you like....?

NEVER think or assume a block that is hot tanked and returned to you or your machinist is clean...they usually are not and while a lot of sludge and crud has been removed in the process....also as much has been softened and not yet to the point it will break free or flow. You need some agitation, higher pressure water blasts and detergents to aid in the final cleaning. Even after all this, you now get to start your detailed hand cleaning of the block. The drain is lower than the core plugs...the normal access for blocks to drain and be flushed. The sediments are well below the core hole line along the block and why you are probably not lowing at the drain. Unfortunately, you must now intervene, and as this was returned in this condition, what do you supposed was done at the upper end of the block in area of the distribution tube. Was it removed prior to the hot tank process and what is its condition now.

you probably right about it being an 11 as it has been many years since I have seen the gun, I kept if for my brother for a good number of years till he got a place he could call his own and protect and keep it secure. The square back was a distinct feature....I just always liked that look.... One day I am going to take a few of my guns out and shoot a few rounds.

the Remington Model 12 was built on the A5 also....have put many loads though an A5 and a model 12....the model 12 came into the family used, needed some light work....I went through that gun shortly after getting it.....never failed to eject after....still like the A5 best however....similar can be said of it as the Dodge Caravan, the first is still the first...just got a Remington 870, while not an 500A...still shoot well, the release could be better positioned....

if it is indeed a 10 guage synonymous with goose hunting, odd are the recoil is going to complete his squat action....been a long time since I shot a full metal cartridge 10 gauge...in a 32 inch barrel

this how they made Turkey Track Ice Cream in the old days, drop them if from the sky....

man, I figured you fell off your board and could not find you way back to this board....!

this is your second posting on this same subject...you have replies on your original submission to the forum, perhaps you should check these answers and if further question are needed, continue it within the same thread so everyone can/will be on the same page.

unfortunately, with the old and faded wiring going back all those years, a picture will do you little good, and as the harness is bundled, tracing it point to point can only be done at this late date by reading the schematic. If you have problems with schematics, I would suggest you get a person familiar explain the routing and numbering point to point so you can tackle this, otherwise, it may be best to let a knowledgeable friend/shop assist you.