Plymouthy Adams

delay my last......found a code......thanks for your efforts...….really appreciated... 128133577114193028

entered that code number and got a message...…………….. not valid or expired.... could you check your code again please......maybe a typo...thanks

can they be trained to push a lawnmower?

thanks.....

Hello forum, anyone got a discount code for the Rock.....??? Thanks

the only ammeters from Chrysler that truly may fit the above "problematic" scenario is the later 70-80 era as these are NOT true ammeters but only sample the load and indicate direction of current with no true display of current anywhere near accurate current draw/charge.....these (older) meters are bit more accurate but even they are not exact....the meter is only a means to monitor your charging system...it is in no manner a device for absolute values...

grapevine will tangle you up.......

that is your trunk lid guides to ensure even closing....business coupe, open the lid...about 7 inches up from the bottom you will see the two holes in the lip opening on the actual support structure itself.....one per side please, hold the ketchup

the see through filters, sediment bowls do not always show full of fuel but still delivers the fuel needed. Verify your pump delivery system by volume/stoke count.

VD...short for voltage drop.....the great electrical system killer...

slow speeds are also voltage drop related...this induces a higher than normal current draw depriving your ignition system from the current it needs.....6 volt systems are way more problematic due to this....so be sure to check you car and for VD......

remember the terms open and close is not in relationship to the exhaust pipe as it is to the bottom of the intake for preheating that chamber....

most heat riser default in closed position that often by passes their intended use to quick heat the manifold and thus are slower to come to temp in this area. You should have other indicators of a stuck open heat riser. IF your control valve is operational...once started and when cold...you should see about 1/4 inch rotation of the valve damper on sudden acceleration of the engine...

many hard HOT restarts are from two common scenarios. One is the coil is getting hot and losing its ability to throw a hot spark...second is percolation of the carb and is often the results of todays blend of gas and high float level. Lowering the fuel level in the bowl will help prevent percolation. This can be verified after a run by observing the carb throat and inside the manifold for wet fuel and a highly concentrated fuel vapor easily seen by the eye as the fuel running down inside the throat of the carb to the hot manifold will cause this dense fuel vapor. A manifold with fuel saturation due to this temp related flooding involves opening the throttle and starting the engine..this prevent drawing extra fuel into the manifold as the low starting speed of the engine prevent fuel being drawn in as the vacuum is too low for a venturi effect. IF the engine does not start easily, and flooding is the condition, remember, every time you let up on the gas and depress it again adds fuel to the manifold through the accelerator pump on the carb.

grounds supplied on your existing harness are more than adequate....just ensure they are clean and tight....and I recommend a star washer for an assured BITE....the only time other than this is if you are adding or modifying your wiring then what you add/change will have to deal with good clean ground of sufficient gauge and wire quality. I will not knock RF or any other supplier of the wiring harnesses as each are what you get in price and sometimes the price is more than what you get...shop wisely...it is good you taking the initiative to search out facts but don't overload you mind nor the vehicle with stuff not needed.

I have come behind a few people working electrical issues...it amazes me how a car/truck can work for 30+ years and all of a sudden when they get the vehicle, all the wires need cutting to fix it and yet nothing ever works again and they are perplexed at how bad the pristine looking wiring harness was when they got it....neighbor came up here the other day, he is notorious for such actions...he described a new problem, being a GM I told him this fix will be the only time he will ever be instructed to cut a wire to make a fix...the fusible link was burnt.

AND...you can usually tell quickly when that happens....

I personally like using the relay and recommend them for the one simple truth, these switches though robust in the day and designed for the vary application for which they have worked all these years there are a few showing their age and with the many cycles of the witch the contact is grooving the other contact to the point there is less force and thus with the lighter pressure an increase in amp draw and switch failures. If you do not have a good new switch or serviceable old switch to replace this, then the relay being such a low current device can continue to use the older now failing switch as there is little to no current involved switching the relay....the other side of the coin...

that's too much truck for you Frankie....better send that thing east to Georgia.....I had a 76 for many years....liked that puppy.

well you have it upside down.. that is the Dodge coat of arms....these appeared about 55-56 I think the v is I think a reference to the V8 engine if so equipped as this cap is also available without the V...Now don't quote me on this 100%...…..now tell me, what is the little dot in the center bar represent.....????? It is an interesting story.

bicycle mud flap reflector and the reflectors I mentioned as used to bolt on the license plate are the same as I see them advertised/sold....

follow your repair shop lead....the suffix letter will not be a deal stopper in my opinion ….your regulator is the controller for the generator...

man did I blow that one.....was not in any manner thinking this Stimsonite lens... As you can rarely find these offered and some GM early 40's glass will retrofit with a bit of intervention and pressing a quarter with a tad of epoxy to hold them in place.....let it be said that multitude of folks will use instead the small bubble style top hat reflector commonly used to hold license plates to their respected frame. I have seen them removed, cleaned and polished to some degree, hit with red lens dye from Testors and reinstalled...again a quarter works good. I hope in some matter this helps and I have redeemed myself....

what are you calling a reflector.....these are open to the tail light through a hole in the body metal......the lamp attaches to this snap in bracket....I would GUESS here that if you have any reflector it was installed after by a PO.

I would not rule out the pulley size as a suffix issue...if you go with this unit, I would look close to that aspect as an issue. Maybe the local shop has an answer for that, it has come up before but never defined as best I know...my books do not state the suffix code meaning...nor can I find it on an internet search...sure there is a table for this....but where ???????