Plymouthy Adams

GL1 is readily available at NAPA..if not in stock is in their inventory and available on an overnight....maybe same day if you get there early....it is gallon container but relax, that gallon is better priced than many quarts of other similar lubes....I bought a gallon not long back for under 17.00

Glad we got a number of folks out in the shop/yard/garage for the event. I did Saturday only on the truck and accomplished my scheduled events plus a few other minor things...yesterday I spent prepping for my concrete for the new Bend-Pak lift to be placed, grass removal with the roto tiller, raking and shoveling and such. We had such a wet winter with the ground soil in saturation for months on end so missed my 'wanted by' install date. Today, felling a tree, son is cutting...I am handling the lines. I don't play squirrel much these days....!

I often look around and me and wonder how many obtained the age they are....guy down the street I send his off to the shop to look for something I know he don't have and I don't need when helping him as he is a danger to work with....If he insist he has to be looking over my shoulder, it's time for me to leave. One guy I met just recently got pissed for me not helping and he was under a car without any provision of safety.....none on hand to implement...always wanting to cut corners and cheapen the car....gotta go man, gotta go

if you have a seat or detonation problem it will show up long before you have to worry about that slot....as stated...posi lock for lapping valves has always been my use of these...hard to find valves with this feature...

bad part about that shot was on closer inspection...the a-post required equal amounts of metal....the maker of this car stuffed foam rubber into the legs of the a post and b post in all I can figure out as a wind noise barrier at hinges and latches....they instead are water collectors and rust out big time. Many of these cars rusted from the inside out here and many failed to note the damage till the car broke in half as the was common at the b-post....there was a ton of rust in the interior header panel requiring much metal also and for the life of me I cannot explain this for love nor money...How water ever got to that point and collect I will never know and I did some major inspections of body and seams... Sasquatch may know the answer but I got to find him first....

maybe it is just me but that car is too solid to sacrifice to yet another car.....build them both...it is just metal pan sections...easy to form and install...cutting that car would borders on a crime....

not meant to be a lift out pan....prepping for a full perimeter weld floor pan...in this picture....hey ma, what' for supper?

I like that....appears to have just the right amount of doors on it.....

is the alternator fixed to this water pump bolt or an optical illusion and you taking it off another upper support?

cloth would be a more fitting loom cover over the plastic stuff I agree.....drop me a pic of complete wiring section...would like to see that.....

that plastic wrap has it uses and I have a couple small sections used where chaffing may be an issue but for the most part..just way over used as a hide all of poorly executed repairs and butchered looms during troubleshooting... I still prefer a taped harness....they lay in place a bit better in my opinion....but then I am usually a bit different in my doing things...

Ed, is that the cloth or the plastic loom covering you referring ? I am still a tape wrapping advocate...if any covering goes on it is only for a possible chaffing protection application and then I sometimes tape that for a cleaner look.

more than not there would be a bit of subtle differences between the 49/50 and the 51/52 at and around the cowl and the shape did change a bit between these models in width and shape in and about the door curve....

now is the best time to order about 20 of these for resale....beat the other guys to the market with these deals.....

my little hula girl is also parading around with a naked butt.....blew her skirt off long ago..... I have now completed my scheduled task for the day installing the front disc and the dust covers everyone on the LBC forum says will never fit...plus a little extra and will continue a couple hours after supper and then put my tools away and take stock on what to tackle next...more than not to complete the under dash wiring upgrades for all the creature goodies I like. I need to run upstairs and grab the new dust covers for the hub bearings....those are nasty looking...

50 thou is a nothing cut in terms of interference fit with the valves...GIVEN you are certain no other cuts have been done prior....the only way to determine this is to do a CR check and modeling clay on the head and cycle the valves...read the specs....

the little increase in CR will not be so great that you need to sacrifice metal for future clean up as needed....at least that is my thinking....you can do either way....your money your project...

This is my truck in project form....actually a delivery van...I have applied a physics principle to that of modification.....for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction, in the hobby, for every mod there is an equal and opposite mod needed. I had to do some back tracking this morning as my brackets I had made the day before while excellent for mounting the fan, I failed to recall the spring that went across the back of the panel where the bracket mounted...not a big deal, couple minutes of rework and a shorter spring put in place. Moving right along and now will set about my next major install for today....most already prepped and placed aside and hopefully no surprises there....objective..mounting disc brakes and connecting all the premade lines.

yep...super six engine....slant with a two barrel usually on the higher line...at least the high line I drove once as a rental out of Chicago was so equipped...

some switches had fuses..some were later fitted with breakers....both do the job of protecting the circuit....one is self resetting when temps return to what is considered normal..the other is costly fuse....as the OP did not state his arrangement...the fuse is going to be assumed especially on a 46 model. The manual has a note that the 46-48 Plymouths did not get a breaker but a fuse....

desk...I just refer to mine as a flat filing cabinet...

and is more likely from the actual act of "shoplift"

touche' often the victim of spell check...I make an error...they correct wrongly....is not highlighted so I see no error......

you don't get put much do you.....husband hit by truck, usually there are dollar signs in the eye, small quote box overhead with pictures of dresses and shoes...and a smile that would rip the corners of the mouth on the average person....

I do recommend that you supply the dimmer switch with fused power via a relay energized by the light switch only to keep the higher current off the contacts. As Greg mentioned, an resistance and you are now going to experience heat and heat generates more heat till a fuse pops or you act overheat the phenolic base that holds the contacts in the switch. One relay only, one cut wire only. The dimmer switch is heavy contact, self cleaning and also dime a dozen at any big box store