Loffy770

Seems like I done it all.. must be the first time ?

Next week I will pick up my 230 from workshop and by that Im pretty ready for assembly. Whats done to it already I cleaned out the worst and did a fairly easy port matching in direction of flow. Cleaned out the worst lumps inside cast iron manifold. cleaned out all ruff casting and filling i the lower block. It will be painted then with glypthal. Head was smoothed in combustion chamber and milled down a bit to get around 1:8 compression. I will cc adjust it next. block has been rebored and decked. crank has been fully grinded. Pistons and rods has been induvidualy weight matched and then matched when assembled. I am going to put a 1/4 spacer under preassure oil valve. i will use electronic ignition. I will use a 32/36 Weber and do a tune to set the best size jets and so on. Cam has been grinded with some more lift. Block has been chemical cleaned and flush out. Long list to get to my question... What else do you flathead experienced people recommend? 1 What more to do before I star assembling? 2 What else can I do on this engine generally speaking?

Thanks guys

Whats the opinion on these exhaust valves? For my engine rebuild I hav gathered pretty much all new parts. will do rebore, decking and full grind. Will shave and aim for 8:1. my intake valves are new made with flat discs and I like to ask if there is any negative opinions to use these slotted exhaust valves?

Does anyone have specs for a mild cam grind that I can pass on to my local cam grind guy? I’m rebuilding my engine and will have a compression around 8:1. All needed data needed for the grind shop is appreciated. Thank you

Dryice was a neat tip?

The lesson learnt from using the hammer is that it works very well and the manual said to hammer them out. But the manual also said to use a mild steel drift... The guide is hard and brittle so it did shatter in my first regular hammer drive, a bit of scary moment when figuring on how to get out the partly broken guide still in the hole. Thanks to the soft washers it worked great to drive out the broken guide. The washers was soft enough to fill out the top of the broken guide when the hammering started. When using the air hammer my I stacked about 15 soft washers on a allen head M8 and then softly squeeze the trigger with a firm pressure down with hammer. The washers absorbed the hard impact and the hammer smoothly drive out the guides. In my mind it must be soft washers, hard or stainless will not absorb the sharp impact and do damage.

Thank you guys for the answers. As for valves I will need new ones, I might find and valves and springs locally from old army surplus. the original tapets look very good with almost no wear. Neck is 0.01 less than my NOS set.

So in my rebuild I will use new valves and I need some advices before I start. I seen that some like VPW sells new made vales and guides for lead free fuel use.. Is lead free fuel a problem or can I use original NOS valves and seats? If I get new made stuff, where do I buy quality valves and seats? And what about springs, will old stock do it or should it be new made with higher spring strength?

I tesed one more idea and it worked like a charm..? I took an air hammer with a flat tool to drive down the guides. I inserted a M8 bolt with a stack of washers and hammered on that.

Hi, I am taking appart my 230 and with a bit of work and removal of 3 broken bolts I down to remove the valve steams before I hand it over for a rebore. I have the block clean now after a thorough cleaning followed by a 24 hour rust removal bath. Removed lots of sand and other from the water channels... Makes you wonder how it worked in the first place. 5 out 6 pistons had broken rings and yet the engine worked fine with 6.8 kilo comp.. Pretty tolerant engine. Anyway to the question......... Valve guides As per manual I tried to tap them down but the wont move at all.. All that happend was that I shattered the top of one guide. Next I use a torch to heat up around the guide, moderate heat but it made no differance. So Im down to as you experts on these engines on how to do it before I do anything more... Dont want to make a mess.. I have a press but I am a bit carefull on using a press on cast stuff. So how do I go about to do this the right way when theguide wont move per my tries before?

Yes its the oit pickup pipe, I will do as you syggested and use a pipe a wrench. I actually tested that before but due to it being stuck so hard I thought it was best to ask. Thank you both for your replies

Hi, I need a bit of advice before I go about and remove the oil strainer pipe from my 230. I have tested a bit to see how hard it sits in the block and it seems to sit very hard.. How do you guys remove it in a safe way? Or am I to exspect it to be wacked and replaced..? Roger

Well I was under the impression that the combustion chamber differs a bit but maybe I missunderstod it. If the chamber is identical I can take ut the 0.060 for sure. The engine was replaced in 1954 by the swedish army and bescause it came out of the WW2 surplus I bet the engine was a brand new crated one. The Swedish army took in some 400 WC in 49 and bought a complete spare part system for them. In 64 the car was sold to a saw mill and converted to a crane to haul loggs, its most likely that this engine never seen any mods. My plans are to put in Hot-spark electronic ignition, raise the compression and balance it, besides that it will be a standard restoration. Thanks for all the replies Roger

Hi I started to browse the net to find out how I can do a simple tune to my 230 flat head and found some easy steps. one was the use of a Mopar 57-59 head. Now the challange is to find and identify the 57-59 heads, I have no clue on what to search for or how to see the differance in a picture. I live in Sweden and I usualy by from Ebay but if you have a tip of another source for this part in US I appriciate the help. What is the correct part ID for this head and if someone could post a picture set with the differances it would be great. My engine is sitting in a Dodge WC and I like it to run as good as a swiss watch and as strong as it can be with the original parts for a 230. Happy new year Roger