Plymouthy Adams

sorry to hear of this....when they say it happens and you then step in it....well that is the truth.....this is the price you pay when you have a well tuned vehicle and an unengaged mind...

2-3 hours in nothing for a well organized swap meet.......you just not at all pro-active....I will drive anywhere from 2 to 6 hours for a large swap meet event with no questions asked...it is a full day of entertainment...the 6 hour one way event I usually incorporate a sleep over and make it a two day event.

primer is a substrate that provides protect to the original surface and is to be also able to work to a level and surface for bonding your top coat..therein lies a many problem with the epoxy base as they dry so hard they are not easily worked to allow top coating. There are a few 2K primers out there but they are readily sandable...are these the primers you are inquiring....otherwise if not 2K I do not recommending adding a catalyst. Also the better primers are lacquer and most catalyzed paint is enamel based.

sorry to hear that....I did not attend our latest cruise in....rarely ever do as there are so few cars of interest on the average..my buddy did attend and state similar observation as yourself....this is why we often have issues after the fact or the cause for total cancellations. I am not sure of the root cause of such social behavior in today's events, activities or shopping experiences except to say many do not like being 'directed' in any manner be it positive or negative. I do not want this to go political....as social behavior is personal to each party

I would think that overnight soaking of the combo felt and leather has the felt in saturation....it is only proper for this to be displaced on use....the continued movement will cause the oil in the felt to thin and continue to wick and be thrown off....odds are you can accelerate this wicking with paper towels pressed against the felt itself. I would at least try this a few times before addressing another replacement. We are not talking mass quantities here....

While I always have a ton of stuff on hand needed attention, lawn to be cut and never ending maintenance about a 110 year old house....I am slowly developing withdrawal symptoms with the cancelled swap meets.....a new venue is slowly being organized now....this will be the first show since last November...hopefully it will not get cancelled and folks attending will have a bit of common sense about themselves. While I find so few parts for my Mopar and British cars....they do allow for lots of shop sundries to be snarfed up.

this technique and wording in order to be successful works best with those suffering Tourette syndrome

dadota, trucks and b series vans...never made it to the passenger car...look for an RH descriptor..

on my 49 with 1988 wheels the only issue was tire close to the tie rod end...with possible flex it could have hit while driving....did not give it a chance to do that, installed a smaller wheel spacer and solved that issue from the get go....so much nicer ride with radials. When I sold the car I ask the buyer if he wanted the original or the 88 rims with wire basket caps....he chose the 88's

I think you need to verify that the detent balls for the control and shift levers are in place and your neutral position is truly neutral

in the south, we call that a SPRAY of sunshine....

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I am not taking away from the performance aspect of the built...it just looks like hell and a total shortcut in aesthetics....I have seen way too many car of similar built that are not only functional but truly appealing to the eye as well.....this reeks of cheap in looks regardless of all other aspects.

yes it is the original ramcharger and I am saying by looks and raggedy dress, fit, and form...it is the original concept of a rat rod....where corners are cut so often in so many places they are no corners left.....to that end...the original sin.....sorry but I do not like it...or anything that would be tribute to this rolling junk...

that thing is pure ugly......I would grant this car the original sin we now know as rat rods....

last time I was prepared to jump a 6 volt battery I hid behind the door for an hour or better before I realized the battery was already dead.......! Lighten up folks....laugh a little....

aren't you glad P. Picasso was not a car designer.....

As you have been absence from the forum for a bit, sad news is Don passed a bit back. Miss his frequent postings...unique character he was. I sent a PM to this fact but your message box must be full as you cannot receive any messages at this time. You may wish to edit/clean your PM inbox.

Old car...new twist...I have seen a few cars homogenized before.....this one is a bit better done than most...not that fond of the theme...but the work appears clean.

sounds like a few nice tools....you need a tape measure in that collection.....?

I never sign off I never close the page....but after x minutes of non activity it drops you I think...but I assure you this page was open for me...

and people still ask...why do you live in the south......most obvious don't you think...

this issue may have to be addressed in a different manner.....first I would have to ask if you have new door seals on the body....if so are they soft or hard. Many repopper have too hard a rubber here and will cause for the doors to strain a bit and stick out proud. You may have to remove this to adjust the door gaps proper. If the removal of the rubber relaxes the fit...you have your answer. Alignment will not be much bother if the rubber is first off the car....If your rubber is old and compressed from long term fit...odds are you have mechanical nut/bolt issues only.

I just could never see the cost of time and money keeping it totally antiquated in the end run...turn them electrons loose and let the big dog eat....

I have always snickered at the suggestion to buy X brand high price helmet over that of X brand lower price WHEN it was a known fact that each had the very same lens within the helmet itself...yes....this I proved long ago buy visiting, comparing and writing down model number of the electronic lens....the best thing to do here and I have not looked for years is to find one that may have external batteries that can be changed when found discharged....compared to having to charge in the sun or battery change via an invasive technique or buy yet another helmet. I have three helmets here and one is at minimum 15 years old and is yet the better of the three...still original batteries and yet works yet this day.