Plymouthy Adams

ok...I know it was swapped to the sbc...just thought it had been converted prior to conversion...

what I find most interesting is the retro conversion to an automatic....what is the engineering code on your engine? and do you have close up of the radio...

if you plan on saving thee two as projects..you best get a move on that mechanical looking tortoise to the rear of the trailer is bout to consume them both...

unfortunately the Streamliner book does not give diameter of the pins but do show that between 1940 and 1947 two different kit numbers...where as the Dodge and Plymouth shared one part number and the larger sisters Chry. and DeS used another whereas there was a DeS that used the size as the Ply/Dod albeit earlier years however.

O U C H get out the aloe ........

the move in 54 was to instill a bit longer looking car with the full headlight bezels...the bumper over riders to the rear. This mid line Savoy came from the factory with two of the three trim packages as standard...missing is the rocker trim...but I have a set of NOS trim not on it at this time and also on it but not pictured is the wire basket hubcaps by Cello....it is almost a full bling bling model...it is also a diamond code 230 with Powerflite automatic. NO PS or PB but the body is pressed for the booster to go in place, mid year model changes to keep abreast of the competition. The is also a slight change in the radio for 54 compared to the 53.

little Eva....

good to see you posting again....

human interest story....read on the person herself.... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dagmar_(American_actress)

your supplied patch was fabricated to be inserted as an underlay and thus externally welded.....

I see only rust....and faded paint...there is no state of dress/oxidation on that metal that preserves the metal....actually there is so little rust overall...this is what my 54 was like when purchased...and though it was taken to bare metal all the way around...this is what 20 minutes on work will do to a surfaced rusted panel....this is actually less than 1 hour of work...

She was born and raised on the other side of the mountain as you would see from my front porch as a child.

if factory made, would be called the Dorko 2000 both cars represent a style car with a very popular following...I am not one of them...those dummy spot lights are just stupid overkill...both cars would look better without them...where are the cruiser skirts?

though mine is a 54...it is a club coupe

the rule of thumb on these engines is 10psi per 1000rpm....and I think this is quoting the low side...

ah come on now that is insulting...I know very well that the majority of us walk around in our shops wearing clean white shop smocks and wearing white gloves...(also why so precious little seems to be accomplished)

when working on your car flipping back and forth in the book from section to section is a matter of a second or two...the CD version is not that user friendly...and as many will chime in you can print the page you need....while that is true.....there is still no substitute for the book in hand.

actually Robert you have the sedan albeit a club sedan...his is the club coupe....there is no rear window division on the club coupe...feature of the sedans. also don't confuse the actual body line with the business coupe...I have seen what was touted as the original business coupe for this year and it just has the back seat removed and was nothing special like prior business coupes.

first off you can fit a v8 into about anything...second is that NONE are a bolt in that will give you ready set go frame. Keep in mind since the 90's about everything is cab forward....these old cars are not by design cab forward and any mount on any chassis will require proper positioning. I found 07 up for the early pre 49 work great...you will set you engine as by the mounts you carry forward from the donor.. cradles from a 88-92 should adapt well, did for me....I made my own engine mounts by modifying the stock spool units from an 88 5th Ave. No manner if going stock frame or sub....your fabrication of mounts will come into play...as best I know there are zero buy and bolt on the market...but then I am so used to fabricating I never bother to look either.

it is a bit more invasive but overall worth the very time to install a late model Dodge frame clip....get the best of everything...clips cost are extremely low cost buy in...little extra work....excellent parts availability. Just food for thought....the donor frame centerline is almost dead on to factory also.

unfortunately there is an error in that listing.....it left out the 54 Plymouth 230 six cylinder that was denoted by a diamond...that was the only year Plymouth offered two six flathead 6 engines...both however are 23 inch engines.

just a note to what I had done...on the passenger side I welded in a pocket for the alternator to be able to offset and allow adjustment. I also added a through fitting plate for the AC hoses....and fabricated a mount for the receiver drier. On the drivers side was a major mod for trimming back the battery tray and beefy mount that is factory to allow for the PS pump and I fabricated a special box on the remaining battery tray for sundries such as spare brake fluid, oil and such to sit neatly out of the way but to hand. The inner compartment is readily set up for the narrow inline as you can easily see. The earlier inner fenders are less invasive than the 49/52 series....these require massive V6 and or V8. One thing less you have to worry about than did I was the slight frame cross member mod for the oil filter. I wish to also inform you that you need to consider the positioning of the new radiator and how it will interfere with the above frame ear sway bar. This would be another major area of reconstruct. There will be a few tweaks to the left and right radiator support aprons in regard to routing the hoses to the radiator. Radiator choice will be either with or without tranny cooler internal...just add the tranny cooler on externally

too much stuff and too many folks rely on the internet that could easily still be done in person..

good deal, a little attention to details on these beasts goes a long way....

yes...if it is a finished look you are going for and in truth should have for best air flow for cooling as needed....the 40 is similar to the 41 and I massaged one for a 383 big block...another question of concern is if you are staying stock suspension, upgrading via the kits available for R&P and disc brakes or going all out with a subframe and even a MII kit which will also require frame stubs be installed.