Plymouthy Adams

be sure to get belts that are long enough....Actually I forgot to mention mine are from a 1991 Plymouth Acclaim and match the interior of the car very nicely.

At one time our member Charlie Akers was doing his magic on these. Check his profile and contact him with a PM

In my business coupe I have three point shoulder harness installed, retractable ones with nice covers over the retractor.. the covers will be painted to match the interior and the chrysler emblem is being replaced with Dodge coat of arms.

oh no...a race of yet another kind....

Don..didn't you mean crusie ship topless deck pictures?

That is pretty much the way you told us how to be a millionaire in the farming business. Question is, Has anybody tried to insult this man yet?" Maybe he can hold it till next Barrett Jackson auction..

Termites on a charter tour....

The car needs attention to the real problem, not a bandaid fan...have you had the radiator flow tested? Is your lower hose in good shape or is it soft and collasping..is your block clear of buildup and the distribution tube in good shape. Water pump doing its job, is the thermostat fully opening. Is the heat riser on the manifold stuck? Is the fan belt tight enough to drive the fan proper. The fact it cools down at cruise shows transfer of heat through the radiator but at idle the fan may not be enough..reason for the flow test. Quite honest with you the old honeycomb rads are very effective units...electrric fans are great for towing and where engine bay modifications leave no room for stock fan placement. Are you running the AC at the time? Remember the added heat from the condenser forward of the radiator contributes to less heat exchange due to higher entry level heat. If the Ac is running try without it and see what happens..if returns to normal then I sould suggest finding a 6 bladed fan. I do not recommend a flat flex fan...

being a spitfire of that era I would say you have a 251 and other than a lightening bolt and raised letters..it is just a standard engine.

Take your time..measure twice cut once..I don't want to hear about you cutting it 4 times and it is still too short.

Oh no...just when you thought it was safe to go back out to the shop.. Congrats...I know you have been searching high and low for sometime now.

although 70 odd cars were used in the making and upkeep of the General Lee I recall that only 14 (there about don't quote me at this time) were sold by Warner Brothers with letters of authenticity matching the vehicles by number to the actual filming..anything else is hype and fraud in my book even if a scrap carcass were found from the many bodies for upkeep as they were never ever finished, running, filmed vehicles. Somewhere in the shop in a box on the top right shelf is my box of Mopar mags that has this article. It is also to my recollection that the buyers were of a lottery draw and had to sign intent to restore the car. Last I read that article was eary 90's while still living in Charleston.

Ha ha...I knew that would wake you up..I can just see it now..you bring that to your house and it's the night of Frankenstien's Monster relived...the local homeowners would be out with scythes and pitch forks looking for a head..anybody's head...

Hey Norm, you could be a real pal and let him store it at your house for a bit..say about 9 months, free inside storage for you...

Paint Norfolk Southern on the side of that baby...probably would eat about the same amount of fuel.. In all seriousness..that would be one BIG BIG project...

Yes..but I think that is so he can haul more of that Tennessee mountain water...got to finance that trip to Tulsa somehow...

here's my vintage speed equipment..1968 383...udden udden

Not being there..here is a stab...first follow the directions as I am thinking that this will hold the porportioning valve center. It will slip to block if you should have a failure (open line, have seen this while bleeding). Sometimes these vlaves get off center and I am sure you don't have the alrm light hooked up indication this condition, test to ground with ohm meter) Another method of centering as was directed by ford years ago when I worked for them..(Mopar never broke so you starved to death) first stomp the brake very severely, it may seat the valve center...their method was to bleed with the power on..watch the light..bleed a rear..if light did not flash, bleed the front till you cross over with a flash or go out and stays out..if did not extinguish and did flash..then very carefully go back to other side and open with light pressure till you observe the light go off..lock her down..this will require the light hooked up and another warm body.

If I were to spend a bit of money it would be on a car that was truly designed and built to run...

as Monk says, you'll thank me later...

Ed..can't help you with the heater but can advise you on the use of a floursent lamp..I use the 25 watt screw base model that is about 8.00 pack of three at Wal-rippers..I have dropped mine a couple times and was amazed it still works, I have never had this much luck with regular or long life or safety reinforeced bulbs before..always cool to the touch might I add..being buried under the dash doing my wiring install this light has been just the ticket. On the fresh air duct...my AC unit is installed dead center of the dash and just below the cowl vent. I was able to modify the brackets and brace to the overhead area where there is a support bracked bolt installed by factory..my vent is totally operational and the lever is offset right to allow for operation with the added center floor console for the stero and other accessories.

Your underlined sentence explains a procedure and reference image U12 and you included the image U21..is this a typo in the procedure in the book? What is image U12?

Yours being a Thomas and Betts and mine not being like my original as I recall there were two different crimp holes for the basic industry standard red and blue lugs. The lugging tool Pat has I have used..they are a bit bulky and they ratchet..once you start the crimp you must follow through the cycle before it will release again.

For those interested, these are the pliers in which we speak. The wiring in the background is just minutes away from sanity... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2007_0429Image0002.jpg The fuse panel is totally wired at this time...every fuse is used..plus a couple other protected circuits on the aux panel up and back from the panel whcih hold the flasers for turn and hazard, AC circuit breaker and horn relay. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2007_0429Image0004.jpg And last is the relay panels and connectors behind the right kick panel. We have wiper motor mounting here. remote entry controller, relay for the back up lights, door entry solenoids, door lock/unlock relays and two not pictured or connected for the single door switch control of three seperate functions. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2007_0429Image0003.jpg Just a tad advanced over the standard 1941 wiring.

Right you are Marty, Klien is the manufacturer. After my original pliers disappeared after many years of service, I bought a new pair at the swap meet in Moultrie, GA. Cost was 14.00 for new..well worth the cost if you do any automotive wiring. I be working electrical today on the bigbutt coupe.