Plymouthy Adams

being a spitfire of that era I would say you have a 251 and other than a lightening bolt and raised letters..it is just a standard engine.

Take your time..measure twice cut once..I don't want to hear about you cutting it 4 times and it is still too short.

Oh no...just when you thought it was safe to go back out to the shop.. Congrats...I know you have been searching high and low for sometime now.

although 70 odd cars were used in the making and upkeep of the General Lee I recall that only 14 (there about don't quote me at this time) were sold by Warner Brothers with letters of authenticity matching the vehicles by number to the actual filming..anything else is hype and fraud in my book even if a scrap carcass were found from the many bodies for upkeep as they were never ever finished, running, filmed vehicles. Somewhere in the shop in a box on the top right shelf is my box of Mopar mags that has this article. It is also to my recollection that the buyers were of a lottery draw and had to sign intent to restore the car. Last I read that article was eary 90's while still living in Charleston.

Ha ha...I knew that would wake you up..I can just see it now..you bring that to your house and it's the night of Frankenstien's Monster relived...the local homeowners would be out with scythes and pitch forks looking for a head..anybody's head...

Hey Norm, you could be a real pal and let him store it at your house for a bit..say about 9 months, free inside storage for you...

Paint Norfolk Southern on the side of that baby...probably would eat about the same amount of fuel.. In all seriousness..that would be one BIG BIG project...

Yes..but I think that is so he can haul more of that Tennessee mountain water...got to finance that trip to Tulsa somehow...

here's my vintage speed equipment..1968 383...udden udden

Not being there..here is a stab...first follow the directions as I am thinking that this will hold the porportioning valve center. It will slip to block if you should have a failure (open line, have seen this while bleeding). Sometimes these vlaves get off center and I am sure you don't have the alrm light hooked up indication this condition, test to ground with ohm meter) Another method of centering as was directed by ford years ago when I worked for them..(Mopar never broke so you starved to death) first stomp the brake very severely, it may seat the valve center...their method was to bleed with the power on..watch the light..bleed a rear..if light did not flash, bleed the front till you cross over with a flash or go out and stays out..if did not extinguish and did flash..then very carefully go back to other side and open with light pressure till you observe the light go off..lock her down..this will require the light hooked up and another warm body.

If I were to spend a bit of money it would be on a car that was truly designed and built to run...

as Monk says, you'll thank me later...

Ed..can't help you with the heater but can advise you on the use of a floursent lamp..I use the 25 watt screw base model that is about 8.00 pack of three at Wal-rippers..I have dropped mine a couple times and was amazed it still works, I have never had this much luck with regular or long life or safety reinforeced bulbs before..always cool to the touch might I add..being buried under the dash doing my wiring install this light has been just the ticket. On the fresh air duct...my AC unit is installed dead center of the dash and just below the cowl vent. I was able to modify the brackets and brace to the overhead area where there is a support bracked bolt installed by factory..my vent is totally operational and the lever is offset right to allow for operation with the added center floor console for the stero and other accessories.

Your underlined sentence explains a procedure and reference image U12 and you included the image U21..is this a typo in the procedure in the book? What is image U12?

Yours being a Thomas and Betts and mine not being like my original as I recall there were two different crimp holes for the basic industry standard red and blue lugs. The lugging tool Pat has I have used..they are a bit bulky and they ratchet..once you start the crimp you must follow through the cycle before it will release again.

For those interested, these are the pliers in which we speak. The wiring in the background is just minutes away from sanity... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2007_0429Image0002.jpg The fuse panel is totally wired at this time...every fuse is used..plus a couple other protected circuits on the aux panel up and back from the panel whcih hold the flasers for turn and hazard, AC circuit breaker and horn relay. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2007_0429Image0004.jpg And last is the relay panels and connectors behind the right kick panel. We have wiper motor mounting here. remote entry controller, relay for the back up lights, door entry solenoids, door lock/unlock relays and two not pictured or connected for the single door switch control of three seperate functions. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2007_0429Image0003.jpg Just a tad advanced over the standard 1941 wiring.

Right you are Marty, Klien is the manufacturer. After my original pliers disappeared after many years of service, I bought a new pair at the swap meet in Moultrie, GA. Cost was 14.00 for new..well worth the cost if you do any automotive wiring. I be working electrical today on the bigbutt coupe.

A lug that has been over crimped will destroy the wire faster than any soldering..in the boat business..US Navy..wiring is crimped and also soldered..might I add that the pliers used to crimp are tested for proper crip depending on wire size, lug size. It is not just done helter skelter. A properly calibrated crimper is a full squeeze for perfect connection one time everytime. Stake-On is the crimper name you want for your automotive wiring..

Darin..the distributor does not affect the oil pressure except in the sense that if it does not fire the engine..no rpm..no oil pressure. The distributor is driven by its mechanical coupling to the oil pump shaft that is in turn driven by the cam.

Taking into account that your pulley timing marks are correct and viewable by yourself, pull #1 plug, place your finger over the hole and check for compression as you turn the engine...you can then fine tune this by pulling the inspection plug out of #6 and inserting a rod to find exact TDC.(both 1 and 6 are on the same level, valve timing is the thing here and you wish to be compressing on #1) when this is obtained, your TDC should align on the pulley to timing indicator and #1 on the distributor to 7 oclock position.

I doubt that unequal wire length would be your problem..at most it may be what about 1 foot maybe too..given the resistance of the wire...and for example 12 guage has a ohm rating of 1.53 ohms per 1000 feet...nah..look for poor connection...float arm not lifting 100 percent.

definitely not the kit I was talking about..this one has had the spindle hot wrenched out from the car...absolutely not worth that amount of money IMHO

Easter Egg Bunnies..she what pastel can do for you...

My catalog from PLYDO is very old..it shows: spindles, set 320.00 r&p kit (did not list relcation shock mounts) part of FATMAN kit, 189.00 brake kit, brackets/bolts/bushings/spacers only 199.00

If I remember right, didn't that set include not ust the brakes, but the R&P brackets, extensions and tapered shims, the 3 inch lowering spindles and the shock relocation brackets. Faily complet package..thing the spindles alone are a tad over 300.00