Plymouthy Adams

then why do they sell primer? why do they recommend it ? Sorry but I would never go to the trouble to prep steel without priming...just not worth the shortcut...Then again I never apply primer without etching with acid either..

would have been better if the wind would have been blowing...but it is good that she is a good sport..

Chrysler had four version, Dodge had 5 as did Desoto have 5 version...

best not go to the vacuum advance...that is a function of the air through the horn to apply metered vacuum for advacnce purposes..would be of no benefit to have max advance at idle.

Don..good observation...appears to be possibliy a electric vacuum pump...

James, I do not know the amount of accessories you are running...and to damage the meter..as long as that sucker returns to "zero" the item should not be damaged, in reality the buss bar that induces the reading is quite heavy...you can use a millohm meter and read your meter shunt and equate that with lenght of wire per the wire resistance scale found on many web sites and split your current reading. I intend to parallel another stock meter with mine for same effect with the second one out of sight behind the dash. If you have access to a good meter and shunt you can read the true draw/charge rate. Most hand held meters only are good to 2 Amp and with even better ones limited to 20AMP...an inductive clip on with a 1 millivolt output per amp will allow good reading on a hand held meter way in the hundreds of amps..or either a good Amprobe brand clipon that is AC/DC these are accuratel enough..an AC repairman should have one if you know someone in the business..as this is a must tool for charging units to the RLA.

The early hemi is one awesome looking machine..introduced as 180 HP and continued in production through the 57-58 392 raised block design with 390 HP output. One as visioned in the early 50's sedan though is fewer HP than a sequential fuel injected Dodge 3.9 V8 which is 185 HP (1994) and a whole lot more weight..but to say...yeah its a HEMI means everything to a showboat versus good econimical maintainable engine the V6 will yield. With this engine and the fact that fewer parts are available..and if found are very high...does not make this an economical swap...but again..it is one beautiful work of art.

273-318-340-360 outside valve cover to outside valve cover---------20.5" oil pan(sump)------------8.25" Length from bellhousing face: to front of block-----approx 22" to center of fan belt 27.0 to front of fan 31.8" Height Bottom of Pan to: Top of Production air cleaner........29.0" Top of carb-----------26.5" top of valve cover----------22.0" Pan rail to: Top of valve cover--------------14.5 Source....Mopar Engines Book.....Part # P4452790 Tony be aware that pre 94 engines are the same mounting ears and the 360 is different on the drivers side versus the 318 ears by about 3/8 inch just guessing as I had not made this measurement in some time but made a special spacer for mounting my 360 using a bare 318 mock up block stripped of internals......post 93 got different style mounts.. PS..if you want to go big block..add three inches left to right and 1 inch longer...pulley/belt measurements only amount to .200 inch difference..engines are about the same height..actually the advantage goes to the big block here.

the difference between the 800 and 2000 is there..but to the naked eye it is had to see..the 2000 when compared is a more mirror finish, sand marks are in microns..and when compounded, and I prefer hand polish over machine, the swirl marks by hand are not noticable in bright light. The paint job I did on my friend's Tiger was hand poloished with Maguires to the tune of about 25 hours...lots of work but worth it..he always gets class and best of show trophies out the yang...I was amazed at bestof show, Spartenburg BMW all European show..over 400 cars that day...with time, and lots of hand work lots of paint jobs can be turned around..it is according to the amount of work you want to input..the paint shops cannot work to this level and stay in business...they are there for the quick insurance paid collision repair work..with base coat clear coat quick shine no effort paint of today.. I still prrefer a single stage enamel and the shine will be top notch with a bit of hand rubbing...

Just keep in mind that 1949 was a special one only year for rear axles..it is narrow..as for the rebuilding..all you need to do is swap out the pumpkin..the whole rear end does not have to be disturbed from the body at all...as for outer axle bearings..just pop some new ones in...a donor car from other years up to I think 52 would give you the pumpkin..however..as I mentioned..your axles are year specific...

nla

the 200 degrees would explain the 3/4 hot reading...just 12 from boiling...you may have some blocking up there prevent flow about the unit..sad part is that if not careful, the removing of the bulb may cause tube to break..this is a very tough item to remove due to rust over the years...about the only way to verify that you may have a blockange is to remove the sender...mount another there for double checking actual temp...

nla

I just went and measured the pulley..mine is 3 1/2 inches diameter..and the alternators I have here are 3 inch pulleys....

Those make a difference..when my bud was doing his racing thing we modified his trailer to hinge out of the way...made putting off and on the trailer a breeze

I can see it now...hat on the pavement, harmonica in hand...you don't by chance have a menkee do you...

As the alternator will put out lots more current at lower speed than a generator..the stock size pulley with the alternator you be getting will more than not suffice...would say approx...2.5 diameter

I did not tub mine but did install a 9 1/4 gear inthe 52 Club Coupe outof a 79 interceptor..this rear gear is very wide..almost 6 inches over stock..I am running some very positive offset wheels for aperfect fit.. However sounds like you going pro-street..chances are to get that much meat you will have to run an narrowed rear gear..I have a 70 Cuda rear gear under the D19 street ratio 2.94, Dakota, 2.94 under the 51 Plymouth wagon and of course the coupe mentioned above..2.88 cruiser gear...

Plydo is 1-304-475-3245 Plydo, Rt. 1, Box 277-B, Delbarton WV 25670 Rear springs.couple of venders..ask Don c. he just put on a set...these were Espo I thing and then there is JC Whitney a bit cheaper..but have not seen them...I think they are what was on the 51 Business Coupe..nice arch...profiled the car real nicely. Rear gear...are you going to run stock wheels...this will hae a lot to do with the gear you want...I found Dakota pre 94 with 5 x 4.5 very nice but is 8 1/4 ring gear..

nla

Pat...I surely appreciate your attitute to help out..but in all seriouness..if you are in a local yard and see a piece of this trim, I am in the market..the one I have is now I have pretty much bumped out and not looking too shabby...will be better than nothing..it was mangled when I got the car.. Mine being the Savoy line, it did not get the Sport Coupe body like the Belvedere you pictured...they are sharp looking cars..kinda grow on you...and the pic you posted shows Dodge trim..I really like their tailfins as much as the stateside Plymouth with the flags...

That is why I posted it as MAYBE early 60'...I have one at the house that is electric..is mounted similar in a 4 in 1 gauge cluster...this unit was in a parts box that came with my Dodge truck years go...I converted Porsche gauges to use in that truck...

I sure would like to have that left door center trim....

Norm...never but never entertain getting an old car from Georgia..there is no title..even if you have one moving into this state they WILL NOT issue a title in Georgia...and as far as the 40's vehicles..if was sold in Georgia originally..it has NEVER had a title...further if you got the car from the second owner and went to the first owner to get the title and he did in fact give it to you, it is of no value here because when the second owner registered the car then the chain was broken...it can be very frustrating...however for taking the car out of state...the bill of sale is all that is needed..but for good measure it is best to have a copy of the registration card had the PO registered the car in his name. The title would be of little value except to say you know there is no lien or other claim against the car. All states issuing a title will do so because of Georgia law...it is not really a problem..just at times a nuisance.

The indication of a slight charge is normal for an alternator..this is the main advantage the system has over the generator..ability to generate higher current at lower RPM..the basic alternator should have up to 8 amps out at idle.. Don..I see you have not pulled the small plug out of your alternator and run it to 12 volts supply from the ignition so as to charge immediately...the 1200 RPM kick in is not bad once you get used to it...