Plymouthy Adams

that will never get off the ground....

Don..a receiver hitch is the one with the hollow tube for inserting the actual square piece the hitch ball bolts onto..the one with the pin you pull and remove from the vehicle. Allow for quick interchange of ball size, quick fix a pintle hitch onto..you see them daily.

I had a friend of mine freak out a cashier once by asking her if he should go ahead and include the 30.00 return fee for insufficient funds.

I also posted a PM exprexssing interest in the hitch...I have two here at the house, the 2" receiver and the smaller size. I have open frame tips at the rear and that is what has me nervous about the receiver hitch install..was curious if Normspeed's frame is boxed and if they used the original rear cross over for support, was it reenfored. They are both a bit heavy and will need modification in any application, a bit hard to hold, measure and such by one's self. I definitely want a receiver style on my car if at allpossible.

Merle...we have two NAPA's one near the house, the one near where I work..they are as different as night and day..I cannot go into the one near the house...hard to get service, never any friendly service and it is a chore for them to have to look something up..the other store, they go out of their way to help..however both have higher prices on the average..and admittingly, sometimes NAPA is the better source.. Seeing as how your Checker is part of Parts America..you can get these as you said, same as Advance...so in all respect guess you are still pretty good...and by the way..accordingly to the NAPA near the house..Plymouth never ever had a 218 engine..all came with a 230....what's that tell you? Pulled an Elvis...left the building.

I never pass up the opportunity to shop at Advance as they are everywhere and warranty is never a problem..... Rebuilt...14.00 core..40.00 list http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=58459&PartType=54&PTSet=A New no core..70.00 http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=5531114&PartType=54&PTSet=A Excellent product, usually overnight deliverly...no added cost to get to you.

Contrats..a driver is always a welcome addition...main page has plenty of resources..click return toP15/D24.com..plenty of links and tips and such to get you up to speed somewhat..welcome aboard..

nla

Restoration Specialties is another source with an excellent online catalog..however I do suggest that you send an example when ordering..I was fortunate enough to see them in person this past weekend in Charlotte and was ever so happy I carried my samples...in couple cases the catalog pic and part number did not match, in other they were able to match a generic for theapplication and in two instances we had to go with another cut to length generic...overall though..I got everything I needed for my car.

Now Don...we all know that BATMAN, when fully dressed infers he has his "CAPON"

Hey its a dump trunk...what do you expect? They are dumping it now...

Hey..I just bought a set of 4 like these at Charlotte...

Back with the early aluminum V8 Buick with the oil pump built into the front cover..rebuilding them in place was a common occurance...as the shaft had to be pushed up from below you needed something to hold it in place while you put it together and yet thin out when hot and blend with the oil..recommended item....vasaline....

I still think there is some confusion on rotating the pump on the poly block engine..the cam is installed into the engine and locked in place and timed with the crank via the timing gears. The intermediate shaft is then next installed and timed (aligned to correct indent) and then the oil pump is aligned and bolted in place and lastly the distributor is dropped into place..this like most Mopar dist. when the intermediate shaft is aligned properly will go 180 out if not carreful. Turning the oil pump in a static condition requires pulling the distributor, then the intermediate shaft whick can be difficult at times due to build up of depositis on the lower end. I checked my 55 motor book just to be sure the early poly had the intermediate shaft as the later model A and the LA.. Or...I'm all wet..not impossible as I truly don't have a breakdown of this engine in my Mopar engine book.

I would think that others, like myself have never had an abundance of these flywheels laying around at any given time and therefore really did not know there are a multitude of difference in weight..we know of 4 and 8 bolt flanges..one would think that trucks be a bit heavier...also in racing the process of making a flywheel lighter for abiltiy to rev quicker is known. On your finding and as a benefit to those who dismantle for resale, exact application should be marked on the removed flywheel as there are subtle differences. I did not first respond but did make mental note of your findings. Thanks for the info....

Sounds like you may have a bulb that is out of socket yet still making ground..

Brad..I spent last Thursday and Friday at the swap meet in Charlotte..even Poppa Joe (red Tiger owner) came up to join in. Charlie was there...pretty good time...boy was it huge..even Thursday was fairly crowded..glad I got out there before the Saturday onslaught of humanity..walll to wall people. Pretty much a blow out on parts however I walked the entire track looking at the cars..first time I have done that in years...buy old iron folks..prices are going through the roof..one of the officials told me at the smaller fall show they did over 300 title transfers...and you can imagine the number of private deals handled after the sale by indidviduals. Its normal to want all the old cars...if you have the means to get and store..and the price is right , may be to your advantage to invest a dollar or two...a walk amoung some of them cars is inspiring to say the least...wish I could spend full time on mine...

you're normal..

just don't mate with them..you be a goner for sure if you do...and your method of cleaning..I seem to transfer vast amounts of that stuff to my body and clothes..but I never seem to get the bottom of things...

The 54 is a P25...know as the P-25-1(Plaza), P25-2(Savoy), P25-3(Belvedere)

Here is a picture of 4 door trim...the tapered end, v-shape and width is the same except being a 2 door the trim is 48 1/4 inch long..the piece above is the rear panel trim...notice the slight angle..the door piece will butt end at square...thanks... Tim

If anyone here is going could I ask you be on the look out for a 1954 Plymouth 2 door trim molding..not the upper belt line piece but the one that goes through the middle of the door..it is v-shape, 1 inch wide and tapered on one end, butt on the other and 48 1/4 inch long. thanks

This is not the style as said earlier..however there is a possibility you can use this if you use a front wheel drive rotor from a full size late model sedan as a fulling flange, bolt it on backwards, hook your three jaws and try it..however if your drum is very tight you may not have sucess with this..if recently off...then very possible..

IMHO..use a new gasket...this one has now been compressed...

Charlie..first thing is if the motor is of the reversible style..if the wiring is not one that allows for it..you can flip the housing end to end...this should make your small ac motor run opposite.