Plymouthy Adams

Done a bit more searching, appears there are three available flex plates...OEM use per internal and exteral..still not settled but the following list show two different bolt patterns, two different bolt sizes and a combo flex plate with both bolt patterns..plus the special race forged crank with 8 bolt application. By looking it appears the issue is more in line with what size torque converter along with what performance level engine determined the application of the flex plate. The dual pattern explains the previous mention one size fits all. Chrysler Y T/F 904 '71 - '76 340 external dual bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole cast crank 102340 Chrysler Y T/F 904 '71 - '92 360 external dual bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole cast crank 102390 Chrysler Y T/F 727 '71 - '76 340 external dual bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole cast crank 102350 Chrysler Y T/F 727 '71 - '92 360 external dual bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole cast crank 102360 Chrysler Y T/F 727 '71 & up 383-440 external dual bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole cast crank 102370 Chrysler Y All T/F 318-440 internal small bolt circle, 7/16" bolt, 6 hole forged crank 145200 Chrysler N All T/F 426 HEMI internal small bolt circle, 7/16" bolt, 8 hole forged crank 145300 Chrysler N All T/F 318-440 internal small bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole forged crank 145600 Chrysler N All T/F 318-440 internal large bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole forged crank 145700

I know of no coupes at the three yards I frequent...only spare glass I have about the house now is a rear window for the D24 Sedan...

At times I feel like they all are sending me to the cleaners...gotta pay to play..as I don't drink, smoke or play golf anymore..I channel that money to other things...and maybe..at worse case scenario, the small change going in the cars can be re-couped if forced to sell..we all know the time is a lost cause..

I got some nice replacement doors for my Suburban...when they were dopped off at the house first thing I noticed was the faded logo that was painted on the skin..it was from a Dry Cleaners complete with phone number...

Agreed.....I read as much as I could on that last night...I even went forward to the big block and there was the same statement there in regard to their flexplate. It is confusing as can be, if could be just the authors use of words. The mere fact that the portion of the book I quote using reference to the "A" engine instead of "LA" could make one wonder as it came straight from the "LA" engine section. The book has a seperate section to cover the "A" engine. I went out to the shop and compared the three flex plates I had in one cabinet, identical..but I also know these are 318 pieces..and I do not have a spare 360 laying around at this time... I did find reference to the size of the bolts (5/16 and 3/8) so that may well be the OEM difference for internal/external applications, another gentle reminder to prevent mis-match as the warning to never bolt the 5/16 converter to the 3/8 flex plate. The introduction of the Magnum series of the small blocks further adds to the confusion in the mix. I basically stay away from these, I do have a Magnum 3.9 in the 51 Plymouth Suburban. When I purchased that book way back when at my local Direct Connection retailer, (remember that name?) They went through and stuck out the few errors and inked them in by hand. Maybe there are other changes to this book I am unaware of. One thing is for certian, and my main reason to post about the flex plate was to inform all about the different subtle changes Mopar made over the years and at mininum three cranks per engine application..the possibility of mis-match is quite high if you just grab a part from here or a part form there. And anyone retrofitting may do well to take the entire drivetrain from a donor and remember well the original year and application for future repairs.

And then...he tied her up And then...he threw her on a rail road track And then, and then......

With all due respect, Mopar built the engine, Mopar wrote the book...The statement I made is directly from their book part number P4452790 page 109... from the book All the "A" engine flywheels and torque converter flex plates are interchangable except for the engines with cast cranks. That is basically the 73 340 and all 360 engines...they are balanced externally and Mopar sell the kit for retrofit Pt # 4120241..but the line about the flex plate I quoted..it puzzles me as I also thought one flex plate for small blocks...just threw that in as written. Further they say later in the book they have one flex plate that works with all small block..Part number 2400885..so what makes this so special? May the two OEM unit compared in physical size/weight of unit? Just said what I did to prevent mix and match, and the convertor does not get the weight "in" as you said but rather "welded on" to the face of the convertor. Therefore the afore mentioned kit... There must be some truth to this as I went asking for a flex plate for my engine years ago..(well know Mopar performance shop) I was asked what small block engine as they are different. That is why I went to the book... As I don't know all from the top of my head..that is why I bought this engine book years ago...

Ford would not have had a successful production automatic as early as they did except for Mopar..they sold them the right to build the Ford unit based on the Mopar tranny.

Nimrod was primary a pipe lighter..had the middle open with two holes..pull the ends apart and it lit and you could draw the fire down into the pipe bowl..my father was a pipe smoker and I just got accustomed to his..and yes I do recall at one time dad having a clear lighter with a fishing fly in the reservoir...

Our local establishment for the insame gives rewards in term of money for those that are certifiable..try to get at least a new Dodge Challenger in the deal... Never seen one myself..but that means little sometimes..lol

Back in the day I carried a NIMROD brand lighter...never ever seen one with a LOGO...Think the only lighter I have now is one with a very risque bust shot...found it in my 52 Plymouth when I bought it years ago.

Now that...got a chuckle out of me...

The welded chain wheel..to quote Janice "Oh My god" When I dragged my 41 Dodge Pickup home from the mountains...trip in itself, that item was the first item removed from the vehicle..Unsafe at any speed.

32'nd size are not uncommon with older built equipment... Sometimes you can try metric for a closer fit if you don't have a full selection of wrenches... Keep in mind that you can also use a hex headed bolt and pair of vice grips and the bolt can be hand filed to fit...

I hope I have not stepped on D24 owner's toes..not ugly cars..I just like the fenders stopping at the cowl is all..

Just goes to show you how people's taste in cars differ..I like the massive grill in the D24....has a real classic look about it. I have one major drawbacks on the D24...the fenders flowing in to the door area..

The special race crank flex plate as mentioned above carries Mopar part number 2466715 The book also states all flex plate on all A engines interchange..however one must be careful not to mix internal balanced flex plate with externaly balanced appliations..this applies to some 340's and all 360 engines..

nla

Those beasts are just.."huge" did you notice what powerplant was in it?

Randoid...I do think you will be more happy with working the primer in prepping the surface for the topcoat..second I think you initial amount of sanding will be less overall...I do recommend that the panels if primed do fully cure...the primer hs some excellent sanding properties but if you think it will be sandable in three days..you gonna get some rather nasty sand scrathes instead of smooth surface as the paint will try to "ball"

your are right..the 488 was the earlier model

230 is not stock for a P15 Plymouth...

Technically the length of the shackle should only be changed with the installation of high arched recurved springs. The high arch are longer springs and as such will need shackles longer to allow the travel fo the spring to the rear during chassis movment due to road/load. These shackles should be part of the kit for application or at minimum shackles specs sent so you can build/alter your your shackles. Basically you are only entending this spring to the rear, retaining the geometry of the spring/chassis. The lifting action of the shackles being longer with regard to stock springs position the weight on the rear eye and in effect limits it rearward travel and dampening action built into the spring and will result in that weight being felt in the wrong place breaking down the rear leaf near the eye during flex during laod/road contions...Maintaining good shocks on the rear is the best way to limit flex/travel of the springs.. As for lateral movement in the rearend..this is normal and some cars have a lot..some have little. main part in this movement is nothing but the condition/composition of the rear shackle bushings. Items like polyurethane and graphite will hold this area more firm and limit your travel..ride will increase a bit in harshness. The ride effect is what this is all about..if you are truly into sport driving..you can even go with aluminum bushing here..installation of a panhard rod will however let you retain the factory smooth feel of the rear chassis plus remove lateral movement to an almost non-existant feel..

Think you will find that these numbers are for the early cast iron units with cable (pushbutton) shift...and I think these also had a rear pump so push start was an option..

lack of a panhard rod installed on vehicle...