Plymouthy Adams

The airbag is a self contained unit with self diagnostics and auto arming after static check at each ignition switch cycle. Wiring it is not in the lest bit hard..the only vague area is the display lamp power source. On a further note, when removing your steering coulmn..wire it in a fixed postion with the removed postion of the front wheel pointing straight ahead. Please bear in mind that the clock spring can only take x-revoulution in any direction..damage to the unit will result...if....you think at any time the unit may have been turned off center..the clock spring can be removed...and repositioned..the procedure is in the book..at no time..energize the airbag while fcing the wheel until all tests are executed and several turns lock to lock has been performed. The basic column is also the same in the earlier pre airbag cars of front wheel design and you may feel more confortable with one of these. I put one from a 86 Chrysler FWD into a 50 Chebbie pickup..slick as a ribbon..matched the interior and removed the crystal pentastar and smoothed it and epoxied a ugh.. I hate to say, bowtie there...fit the decor..man loved the new column and all the benfits of modern control at the fingertip. Wondered how he went that long without it...he said...

Ed..I have had two D24's at the house..a sedan and a business coupe..did not keep either long...the business coupe I bought mainly for the dash..traded out with the 41 dash which I don't care for and upgraded to the D24's which I think is one of, if not the sharpest factory dash setups going. Chrome left to right top to bottom..slick.... The sedan I purchased for the interior...as the lower body was in very bad shape. they both went to the same person so that the best of two would go into one..and yes..the bottom of the bumper and it's affixed gravel pan is the killer for just removing the bumper and dressing up. Very much like the 51/52Plymouths I own..gravel pan is on the 41 also but stands of from the body and is butterlfy shaped itself..off or on stil looks good..even looks good with original bumper without pan...some cars are a challenge..the D24 is one of them.

just think if the pictures were in sync with your handle "rearview"

Shock kit was part of brake setup at the time... Acclaim column, cut the pig tail and take the entire unit with harness..really not that many wires..I have every aspect of that coumn wired into my 41 Dodge, including airbag, cruise control and intermittant wipers down to the timed halo light and key in alarm. Built/spliced my own harness..remember a wiring harness is just a bunch of independent circuits neatly bundled together and breaking out of the loom in general proximity to the accessory you are connecting. Use a truck center dump manifold...allows for room for the steering, starter and my H-pipe will slip right out from under the car in one piece..one easy drop and twist, ball sockets on the ends..granted..building your own harness from donor cars is a bit time consuming but you still get to use a factory schematic, wiring colors, and you know the guage is engineered to work..all you are doing is tailoring it to your car...no need to go to a wire gauge chart..but you can if you want..I did source it on occasion. IMHO, headers are for race track only..would not run one on the street for love nor money..nor would I run an aftermarket aluminum intake on a Mopar for the street..get a stock dual plane cast iron...you loose just too much performance and idling characteristic not to mention low rpm torque and horsepower. Stick with the Mopar viscus fan of assymetrical design for added horsepower...water pump, fans and alternators under load rate right up thee with the best of horse thieves. Your choice of the 318 allow you to use the 5 speed manual if you wish from the Dakota line up, or the a500 or a518 OD autos or any other base line tranny of RWD configuaration..please note that all RWD trannies either auto or maunal had the same length to the cross menber mount..BUT this is not true with the OD units..the mount is in different location here...be advised of this and make sure you select the tranny you want in the beginning.

I have converted a couple Sunbeam Tiger's from generator to alternator..stock bracket is a bolt on, belt alignment is not an issue and shimming with washers is not needed, stock wiring harness is used, pigtail is still used..throw out the old reg and pop in a electronic unit...just to easy. The upgrade to Chrysler electronic ignition on the Ford is a vast improvement..best thing is that the wiring harness is not altered to where in a emergency or going for show cannot go back stock in just a few minutes..stock coil, stock dropping resistor.. The billet mindset is alive and well out there..there are just as many alternatives as there are products

to be honest with you YOU DON'T WANT TO SEE IT ALL....

My golly what put a GM on when any Ford alternator would do the trick..and the reason for that statement is that even if your car came with a mechanical regulator..pull it, toss it and bolt in the replacement electronic unit..low cost..no maintenace same bolt pattern and even the old pigtail retrofits and slides right on..a true no brainer...still have the idiot light and tickle on igition circuit...I SEE NO IMPROVEMENT HERE

One of the first benefits is not needing the special high dollar hard to obtain A body drivers manifold that humps up and curves. The Acclaim column I have put in 4 vehicles...just too easy...Cavalier rack allows easy position behind the wheels and connects with Borgenson/Flaming River joints that also might I add works with the Acclaim column. Basically everything you have described is what has been done to my 41 Dodge...with lots of other small details added in the mix. Of course the Mopar big block is in mine, center dump on the drivers side, rear sump oil pan from the truck, 6 quart capacity with pan mounted dipstick. I can say this..my front suspension with the lowering spindles have netted at bests 4 inches ground clearance without altered springs. Do the shock relocation. Remeber the aftermarket columns are base GM copies..Camaro are used extensively in rodding but don't overlook the Dakota truck in this area..same length as the Camaro..better tilt and electrical componets also..when it comes to your tranny hook up..get the right parts from the yard and it is a bolt in..and the cables just snap in place...

While that book may be one heck of a source..sourcing the book may prove difficult at minimum. There are many different approaches to do this job..and as such many references on the internet with pictures and such on how to do it. Recommend that you first determine how you want to do your car. Original frame suspension and upgrade engine only. Upgrade stock suspension along with the eingine and tranny. Or you can subframe. Once YOU decide on what characteristics you wish your car to have..then search for details on that approach. If you are doing this work yourself you must have the room to tear down and spreadout your componets, necessary tools for handling the engine and tranny plus metal cutting and welding equipment to fabricate mounts, brackets etc to complete your job. BUT if you are going to farm this out, your choice of builder already has the tools, space and skills to do the job and as such his approach will have to agree with what you picture as end results. These are also point of no return to consider with mods...if this don't work can I go back to stock etc. Searching the internet will definitely give you some insight here....Fatman, Plydo and even some of our forum members fabricate various pieces parts for engine/tranny, suspension and brakes to help get you where you are going.

One piece at a time...lol

I personally think the top chop would be an extreme amount of money that could well be spent in other places...as the top does stow away...put a good boot cover over it and ride...I have the luxury of inside storage on my car..and ammittantly does not get out often..I cand count on two hands with digits left over how many times the top has been raised...

Ed..the stock nose piece of the 1941 Dodge D19 needs ablsoluetey no work to dress if you remove the bumpers..it is that slick a set up...I for one am not going to chance running without a bumper...The rear is also set up for a simple to make rollpan.. as you can see the damage..that was from it being pushed around by hand only with the bumper off prior to my taking ownership...

nla

Ed..the D24 that went to Finland I think had a later model bumper affixed. The bumper looked to be Volare/Aspen but could not tell for sure. IT did have at one time the rubber accent pieces that popped into the holes of the bumper. As for the P15 and running boards, there in 41.....the gentle roll is what replaced them in 42...not sure how it would look with both items on...I like the sharp bottom edge of removed running boards myself if customizing. The D24 fenders are not so much that the car is ugly as I said earlier..it just takes so much side body into one area...massive...kinda like when the redesigned Dodge truck came out.......love it or hate it ...was not much middle ground with consumers. How be the Chebbie truck coming along?? Seats in yet?

I just went to Steele catalog...it states the same part number for all club coupes of the era, Chry. DeSoto Dodge and Plymouth as one part number and the sedans and business coupes different. These people have a master catalog with more indepth details of their product for application and such...they can answer most questions immediately where the book can be misleading or vague at best. http://166.82.96.3/homeframes.html

I saw those earlier...send them a PM..that is the recommended avenue of contact on the HAMB...these guys are good to answer...at least that has been my findings....I feel pretty sure these babies are long down the road but you never know...that is one active parts board...

Norm..that is odd they attached to the floor...you already have flex issues with rubber mounted engine to the frame and using frame supported hangers to the rear. To add them to the body in my opinion would increase flex as now you have the engine torque to deal with plus the roll of the body flexing your exhaust system. I like the new rubber iso block hangers with the 3/8" stem that welds to the pipe..my system is prety rigid but I did address the flex by placement of ball coupers at the end of the H-pipe.

Done a bit more searching, appears there are three available flex plates...OEM use per internal and exteral..still not settled but the following list show two different bolt patterns, two different bolt sizes and a combo flex plate with both bolt patterns..plus the special race forged crank with 8 bolt application. By looking it appears the issue is more in line with what size torque converter along with what performance level engine determined the application of the flex plate. The dual pattern explains the previous mention one size fits all. Chrysler Y T/F 904 '71 - '76 340 external dual bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole cast crank 102340 Chrysler Y T/F 904 '71 - '92 360 external dual bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole cast crank 102390 Chrysler Y T/F 727 '71 - '76 340 external dual bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole cast crank 102350 Chrysler Y T/F 727 '71 - '92 360 external dual bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole cast crank 102360 Chrysler Y T/F 727 '71 & up 383-440 external dual bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole cast crank 102370 Chrysler Y All T/F 318-440 internal small bolt circle, 7/16" bolt, 6 hole forged crank 145200 Chrysler N All T/F 426 HEMI internal small bolt circle, 7/16" bolt, 8 hole forged crank 145300 Chrysler N All T/F 318-440 internal small bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole forged crank 145600 Chrysler N All T/F 318-440 internal large bolt circle, 5/16" bolt, 6 hole forged crank 145700

I know of no coupes at the three yards I frequent...only spare glass I have about the house now is a rear window for the D24 Sedan...

At times I feel like they all are sending me to the cleaners...gotta pay to play..as I don't drink, smoke or play golf anymore..I channel that money to other things...and maybe..at worse case scenario, the small change going in the cars can be re-couped if forced to sell..we all know the time is a lost cause..

I got some nice replacement doors for my Suburban...when they were dopped off at the house first thing I noticed was the faded logo that was painted on the skin..it was from a Dry Cleaners complete with phone number...

Agreed.....I read as much as I could on that last night...I even went forward to the big block and there was the same statement there in regard to their flexplate. It is confusing as can be, if could be just the authors use of words. The mere fact that the portion of the book I quote using reference to the "A" engine instead of "LA" could make one wonder as it came straight from the "LA" engine section. The book has a seperate section to cover the "A" engine. I went out to the shop and compared the three flex plates I had in one cabinet, identical..but I also know these are 318 pieces..and I do not have a spare 360 laying around at this time... I did find reference to the size of the bolts (5/16 and 3/8) so that may well be the OEM difference for internal/external applications, another gentle reminder to prevent mis-match as the warning to never bolt the 5/16 converter to the 3/8 flex plate. The introduction of the Magnum series of the small blocks further adds to the confusion in the mix. I basically stay away from these, I do have a Magnum 3.9 in the 51 Plymouth Suburban. When I purchased that book way back when at my local Direct Connection retailer, (remember that name?) They went through and stuck out the few errors and inked them in by hand. Maybe there are other changes to this book I am unaware of. One thing is for certian, and my main reason to post about the flex plate was to inform all about the different subtle changes Mopar made over the years and at mininum three cranks per engine application..the possibility of mis-match is quite high if you just grab a part from here or a part form there. And anyone retrofitting may do well to take the entire drivetrain from a donor and remember well the original year and application for future repairs.

And then...he tied her up And then...he threw her on a rail road track And then, and then......

With all due respect, Mopar built the engine, Mopar wrote the book...The statement I made is directly from their book part number P4452790 page 109... from the book All the "A" engine flywheels and torque converter flex plates are interchangable except for the engines with cast cranks. That is basically the 73 340 and all 360 engines...they are balanced externally and Mopar sell the kit for retrofit Pt # 4120241..but the line about the flex plate I quoted..it puzzles me as I also thought one flex plate for small blocks...just threw that in as written. Further they say later in the book they have one flex plate that works with all small block..Part number 2400885..so what makes this so special? May the two OEM unit compared in physical size/weight of unit? Just said what I did to prevent mix and match, and the convertor does not get the weight "in" as you said but rather "welded on" to the face of the convertor. Therefore the afore mentioned kit... There must be some truth to this as I went asking for a flex plate for my engine years ago..(well know Mopar performance shop) I was asked what small block engine as they are different. That is why I went to the book... As I don't know all from the top of my head..that is why I bought this engine book years ago...

Ford would not have had a successful production automatic as early as they did except for Mopar..they sold them the right to build the Ford unit based on the Mopar tranny.