Plymouthy Adams

P4120751 Race Hemi Orange used on max wedge cars 413-426 Cross Ram 1962-64 and 426 Race Hemi's 1964-65 P4349216 Street hemi Orange 426 Hemi's 1966-71 also the 1969-71 HiPo 383 and 440 and in 1970-71 the 340 P4120750 Black All 2.2 since 1981, and 318-360 since 1983 P4120752 Turquoise used on all B/RB diring 1961-71 with the exception of the 383/440 Hipo that were Street Hemi Orange P4349218 Red all 273 from 1964-69 1968-69 340 and most mid60's 318 P4349217 blue all production engines 19+72-83 with e the exception of the 2.2 Most 319 from about 1967 through 1972 P4519144 Yellow Used on many early 1960's slant 6 including truck P4529148 Aluminum Silver used as far back as 1940 and into early 60's also most of the 50's and early hemi's P4529149 Gold Metallic The Golden Lion of the late 1950's and early 60's as well as the Golden Commado and DeSoto Adventurer Reference..Mopar Engines. book Part #P445790 in resoration section, page 64

you forgot yellow and black for some mopar engines.....believeit was said all flatties in cars were silver.

I use a combination of Saran wrap and aluminum foil as James stated above..using newspaper is ok if you are doing an engine compartment but by far newspaper is not a recommended masking material for top coats as it is extremely dusty in nature...Harbor Freight and paint supply houses sell a dust free masking paper in rolls that is still economical enough to use. I do use newspaper as quick masking of areas for initial primer work and general underbody etc. Just be aware lots of dust nibs come from newpaper.

On a limb here but try your Cooper distributor...sounds like a name they may have used as they had Hankook tires in this area.

but you can't make him swim in it.....

I recommend a hardwood or phenolic wedge...locate the clips along the trim, push up at bottom of trim/clip and gently pry the trim off the clip..removes very nicely. The clip itself is locked into the round hole after insertion by spreading the cleats a mite...gently emove these and if good can be cleaned, prime/painted and re-used.

Little off the original words but something to this effec... Money for nothing get your "checks" for free... Hear you on that..I now say it one time, E-mail with receipt and read requests, they big boys..said they can do the job..well it is in your ball park now..batter up..there are no free walks now...we just had a question arise after 4 years when I submitted the request...showed them the message..they left tail between the legs and a promise to do better....lol WHEN PIGS FLY

Couple schools of thought.. Don't fix anything that works, If it has not given you probs by now probably won't At this age you would have to break it loose to ensure proper torque If sealant was used on assembly with relation to water jacket and has been a long time..NO..some say it is asking for a leak Set your torque wrench and during correct sequence if any will turn before correct torque is reach continue to torque setting.

Hooter girls in skirts..put them on my car any day of the week...

Ed..I have seen the above mention of the "extension for any other way to describe it" a few times...I did write it down and I did make a complaint to the sniper site I use...no explaination was given and they said it was not due to their software either..SO BE IT..I did not save this report for the future as there seemed no point, would be nice today for you folks to see...there are no guarantees anywhere. For those who do not snipe by software and snipe by watching and enter last second bids..well that is a risk and time involved action on your part...as for the software..I set it as much as 7 days out and let it run..AND this software is fee related based on the purchase price of item. It is reasonable enough for me not to have to monitor my bids, but keep in mind it is just another way I pay to play...granted there is a better chance of winning by watching the last few minutes...most of the time the price well exceeds my snipe price early in the auction...just let it ride, no bid entered or if I happen to be on the site I just delete the bid..I am still in some control..and the only real complaint is the run on after posted closing times I have seen here and there. I have been plenty times out sniped..

Rant or not all I can say is that I have watched my e-bay bids live..2 seconds to go...still does not end...60 second later..still not ended...about 3-5 minutes later the bid will end...and in that time you will see a winner with a bid time past closing..so to me this is an extension..intentional or not..seems very flaky to me...still has all the earmarking of an extension to me....so if someone can better explain this I am all ears so to speak.. There are people on there selling more in a week than I have cared to purchase over the last 4 years or so and thus it is not a major media for parts. Don't get me wrong..if I can snipe it or buy it for a real good price..I will..who wouldn't?

it all boils down to one thing...money...E-bay makes it money for the initial list and percentage of sale..so it only benefits them to extend the auction time...so again, E-bay does not have any regard for the buyer and could care less if an extension ruined his deal...and the allowing of the sniper bid is supported by them but for this reason and now with the extension of time they are again juggling the auction field to max profit for them...so to get the part it is "pay to play"..to get the part for resale as many do...it can be limiting your profit margin and at times a risk for resale..to bid for the fun...you need serious help....to run up a bid for a friend and this is still prevelant on e-bay is just dishonest. E-bay can be a good avenue of parts..and given the time and distance and the "unknown if available" of swap meets..sometimes the higher price is well within reason after all. As for making up for the price in shipping cost...I hope they break a frigging leg getting to the postoffice, I do bids that list the flat rate and have the calculator for cost included..these guys are on the up and up and as such will get the most attention on bids.

Eric..sample...dang thing did not photgraph as good as I wanted...but there are two rows of the little "dental" squares so to cure to fit and glue in place for guide/anti-scuff

I agree Pat..have had the "so called expert in his field" tip the guy to what he had and have them pull the ad...hey..if he don't know..its not my business or in my benefit to tell them....someone is looking for a deal..if not me ..then the next guy. I think it boils down to some people's ego will not let something slide if they can look like a WIZARD

You will also notice the trend of higher asking prices for the next item when listed by the so called bidding wars..some of this stuff is just getting ridiculus.

Ingredients for a long life: Geritol in the morning Phenabarbital in the evening Noassatol at night... (reason I will probably die young)

no...a project car as described is not close to that asking price...Barrett Jackson syndrome...pass, will be more down the pike. Even for a coupe or two door sedan it is high..much less a more door.

I'm a sniper..(I get sniped also) I think it is ridiculus to see a bidding contest early in the game...only person making out is the seller...odds are he is not paying income tax so he needs little profit in my book..I place my max money on a snipe and let the bid run...and if I lose, oh well..as Norm said the next guy paid too much.(but dang it he has the part..lol) ..I like going to live auctions and see the p'ing contests..lord-a-mercy the attitude of, I'll be danged if the other guy is going to get this is pretty costly...you need one of these to compete in that game.....

nla

nla

The lady here in town with the 51 business coupe had wheels with the oval holes...between them and prepping the rims sealing bead..she is good to go..she is happy that she is not having to constantly twek the tire pressures...Brad sent me the link to the stems, she ordered them in..think they cost her almost 3 bucks a stem.

These are pretty much on trucks, Ramchargers, some vans and of course the ones with the holes as shown are police caps for cooling the hubs...you may want to type in Dodge hubcap or maybe dogdish hubcap on the e-pay. The trim rings have to be fairly shallow type on the Dakota.... as this is not a P15/D24 item I post the following: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-1969-1970-DODGE-MOPAR-RED-CIRCLE-DOGDISH-HUBCAPS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ140745QQihZ006QQitemZ160138353313QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Old-Plain-Dogdish-hubcaps-set-of-4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34209QQihZ015QQitemZ250141433363QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Its a sissy looking lap dog..put some primer on that thing real quick before a real truck owner sees it... I just bought a 1 x 4 pressure treated pine that had a knot that looked just like the creature they called Mothman..got that sucker dead between the eyes with a 16 penny from the ole Bostich nail gun...

The Dakota is a nice looking rim, here is a shot of one on my Plymouth Suburban (1951) with just an old trim ring thrown on for effect and the police vented small dogdish.

nla