Plymouthy Adams

Rant or not all I can say is that I have watched my e-bay bids live..2 seconds to go...still does not end...60 second later..still not ended...about 3-5 minutes later the bid will end...and in that time you will see a winner with a bid time past closing..so to me this is an extension..intentional or not..seems very flaky to me...still has all the earmarking of an extension to me....so if someone can better explain this I am all ears so to speak.. There are people on there selling more in a week than I have cared to purchase over the last 4 years or so and thus it is not a major media for parts. Don't get me wrong..if I can snipe it or buy it for a real good price..I will..who wouldn't?

it all boils down to one thing...money...E-bay makes it money for the initial list and percentage of sale..so it only benefits them to extend the auction time...so again, E-bay does not have any regard for the buyer and could care less if an extension ruined his deal...and the allowing of the sniper bid is supported by them but for this reason and now with the extension of time they are again juggling the auction field to max profit for them...so to get the part it is "pay to play"..to get the part for resale as many do...it can be limiting your profit margin and at times a risk for resale..to bid for the fun...you need serious help....to run up a bid for a friend and this is still prevelant on e-bay is just dishonest. E-bay can be a good avenue of parts..and given the time and distance and the "unknown if available" of swap meets..sometimes the higher price is well within reason after all. As for making up for the price in shipping cost...I hope they break a frigging leg getting to the postoffice, I do bids that list the flat rate and have the calculator for cost included..these guys are on the up and up and as such will get the most attention on bids.

Eric..sample...dang thing did not photgraph as good as I wanted...but there are two rows of the little "dental" squares so to cure to fit and glue in place for guide/anti-scuff

I agree Pat..have had the "so called expert in his field" tip the guy to what he had and have them pull the ad...hey..if he don't know..its not my business or in my benefit to tell them....someone is looking for a deal..if not me ..then the next guy. I think it boils down to some people's ego will not let something slide if they can look like a WIZARD

You will also notice the trend of higher asking prices for the next item when listed by the so called bidding wars..some of this stuff is just getting ridiculus.

Ingredients for a long life: Geritol in the morning Phenabarbital in the evening Noassatol at night... (reason I will probably die young)

no...a project car as described is not close to that asking price...Barrett Jackson syndrome...pass, will be more down the pike. Even for a coupe or two door sedan it is high..much less a more door.

I'm a sniper..(I get sniped also) I think it is ridiculus to see a bidding contest early in the game...only person making out is the seller...odds are he is not paying income tax so he needs little profit in my book..I place my max money on a snipe and let the bid run...and if I lose, oh well..as Norm said the next guy paid too much.(but dang it he has the part..lol) ..I like going to live auctions and see the p'ing contests..lord-a-mercy the attitude of, I'll be danged if the other guy is going to get this is pretty costly...you need one of these to compete in that game.....

nla

nla

The lady here in town with the 51 business coupe had wheels with the oval holes...between them and prepping the rims sealing bead..she is good to go..she is happy that she is not having to constantly twek the tire pressures...Brad sent me the link to the stems, she ordered them in..think they cost her almost 3 bucks a stem.

These are pretty much on trucks, Ramchargers, some vans and of course the ones with the holes as shown are police caps for cooling the hubs...you may want to type in Dodge hubcap or maybe dogdish hubcap on the e-pay. The trim rings have to be fairly shallow type on the Dakota.... as this is not a P15/D24 item I post the following: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-1969-1970-DODGE-MOPAR-RED-CIRCLE-DOGDISH-HUBCAPS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ140745QQihZ006QQitemZ160138353313QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Old-Plain-Dogdish-hubcaps-set-of-4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34209QQihZ015QQitemZ250141433363QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Its a sissy looking lap dog..put some primer on that thing real quick before a real truck owner sees it... I just bought a 1 x 4 pressure treated pine that had a knot that looked just like the creature they called Mothman..got that sucker dead between the eyes with a 16 penny from the ole Bostich nail gun...

The Dakota is a nice looking rim, here is a shot of one on my Plymouth Suburban (1951) with just an old trim ring thrown on for effect and the police vented small dogdish.

nla

Ditto to what Greg said...not enough material there to mess with... I would think you should be able to come by some early Dakota 15's that are for disc and the right pattern...

Here in middle Georgia...the blank stare is not at all uncommon...I even went to the local tire dealer that does the truck and farm implement tire service..AIN'T NEVER HERD' NUTTIN LIKE DAT...

I cannot find the link I thought I had for a retailer of these but suggest you look for these under vintage Chevy as the ovals were very prevelent on their rims...they sure worked the magic on a set of rims I was helping with.

This is a common problem compunded by the tire shop who mounts your tires if you pay to have work done. Their interest is in the waiting customer and to get to them you must be moved out of the work area..fast mount balance and out the door you go...it is not that they do a bad job, they just don't do a through job. They have no idea that the moisture that invades a tube tire over the years really affects the sealing bead area of your rim. Nor do they have the time to treat your rim for this contion due to the WAITING CUSTOMER. To correct this will be to dismount the tire..wire brush and acid etc, prime and paint the area...sandblasting is better but not all have access to that. If you find a lot of small pits after prime and paint, you can wipe a very thin bead of RTV on the sealing lip just prior to inflation..this will smooth out the illregualrities. go easy on the sealant..just enough to fill the tiny voids and not run to the inside of the tire...

and.......you take it in for new tires..Wally Walwhacker the mechanic leaves the doors open to take full advantage of your stereo as he places the car on the 4 prong lift...what was that CRUNCH?

Pics and notes have been sent to your e-mail...good luck..remember..this is just one way..not the only approach.

The sedans do interchange that I know...

I can say this..I had one out of the car...loosened the clamp and was just going to slide it off..lets just say it didn't..I did not want to damage anything as the sector was to be shipped out of town..so let the entire unit go in one price...It has to come apart as i have seen the exposed shaft..just how involved..not sure..maybe mine was a bit STUCK...

In the ad it states...12 volts....so would assume you got a true rod and custom device there...

The inner shaft of the steering column is integral with the worm gear..answer..all or none..there have been reports of this getting cut and rewelded..not a recommend fix..even with a good weld, the horn wire hole often suffers some closure...removal of the steering wheel, access panel in floor make removal of the sector a rather bit of a pain for sure.