Plymouthy Adams

Rodney..find yourself a good electronic supply house in your area...I cannot remember the name but there is a a birte dip out there that will clean this completely and easily. They will know just what you need, or at least should..we used it in the ship repair business...

look like a flying eye also...

You should insert the key..turn it a tad..then be able to press in on the spring loaded plunger and extract the lock cylinder. When re inserting, going to the far CCW direction will push the lock pin back into its locking position.

Older model Dodge carried the 218 stock..last year was the 1941 it was a fluid drive automobile also.

I thought that looked like a lake pipe cap..but it could also had been a radiator cap in the first set of pictures...so I thought I would best ask. This one may be a bit hard to top for while. The head light stands and bubble covers look like some distinct PERIOD items...

Hey Bob..what a collection of items on that car. I see a couple of things recently dicussed there. The chain pull switch on the dash is one of them. One thing for certain, with the items on the cowl he will never get a hood mounted. Liked the smaller swing petals and hydraulic clutch setup...make shifting a breeze...could not really determine what he used for a front bumper. And who could over look the SHIFTER BOOT ?? PS..just noticed..it is also parked in the URGENT CARE area and pray tell, what is a hinge doing on the right rear fender? Inquiring minds want to know...

I believe when Charlie and I last spoke he was thinking of the C171 small rotary Chrysler compressor. I also used this compressor and adapter my bracket to fit the Chrysler big block 383. This compressor was not in use at the time the 383 was in production...worked out real well... added note....I also used small block pulleys on the crank hub/balancer along with a Ford water pump pulley for proper alignment...

The trim really breaks up the long panels and define the soft rounds of the fenders and grille and tops of doors. Plus the darker the base coat of the car's color, the more the trim effect seems to be...will be a headturner when finished for sure...

Good deal and cleaning the rear of the block with the tube removed will greatly benefit your engine..even after all you had done earlier it was a bit warm running at times..maybe this is the ticket to a cooler running engine.. I know you wee not prepared for the added cost of the clutch/flywheel but hey....it is cheap insurance compared to doing it later... Bet you will sleep good tonight knowing that headache is behind you...

So you gave MURPHY the boot...good...going with stock really should never be a worry...

I tried to address the concerns Pat had with MURPHY..he apparently wants to use a cotter pin...and uless the pin happens to be within the void of the grease hole..there is no reason he cannot have peace of mind by drilling and using castle nut and cotter pins. The fact that other cars have them clearly point more than one method is all...that is why I use in capital letters the word IF My book that has the P15 and the P17-P25 Plymouths do show a picture of both being used...so techinically it is your call what ones you feel better with. Neither is wrong it appears.

A cinder block is made from portland cement and coal cinders..very very light wieght and can be easily broken. They still support well by wall construction but have no side strength per say..I have seen these thing shatter in my youth as people tried to support weight on the side instead of the top. I would say they weight in about 1/3 the weight of a cement block..I have not seen a cinder block for sale in years...the back wall of my shop here at the house was at one time part of the original carport/utility room constructed long before I got here..and is made of lightweight cinder blocks.

For what it is worth, reading the above got me thinking, so I went to the shop and lo and behold items 48 and 19 on my 1941 Dodge are drilled and use a cotter pin/ castle nuts. (items 18 and 47) If you should be very apprehensive about all this..maybe using one from an earlier car would be of help..P/N 861 214 is for the drilled ones and are the same part number for upper and lower application. IF you should want to drill your original bolts and with regard to Coatney's advise about damage to lube hole etc..remove the zerk fitting..run a stiff wire to the bottom and see if you indeed have enough dead space to support drilling the hole. This could be the easiest step to your peace of mind. I personally would look at this route..hey its the way John Wayne would have done it...!!

it being stamped P15 says it is the smaller length and his reference to long block means that it is complete with head and oil pan..usually only the accessories are left to bolt on..

Most the time on these engines, the original pistons are in such worn condition especially in lower skirt (cracks) and in the upper ring lands that cleaning and reusing is a risk..so if you should be able to resleeve new pistons should be purchased of standard bore. Due to cost and other options I nix this idea at the moment save it as last ditch effort when you get ot be up in age and still driving this jewel. However their is plenty of metal left in the block..bore to the closest standard oversize using the 230 slug and rods and get some extra umph out of the engine..

refreshing news..we can only hope...now if the new buiness is to kick out the French connection that led to cars without balls..we might get the recognition the company had always commanded in the past...

I forgot to address the bushing. You can buy bushing by size to work correctly on the lower A-arms of the 41 Dodge...using later 47 Dodge mounts..t

I would not think so..but I don't have any information on this to back up my thoughts. As it control the body roll and the weight of the cars are approximately the same I would not see any need for stiffer between the models. The Dodge, DeSoto and Chrylser shared chassis.

Inquired for sure after getting home form the Indy trip...owner is friend's neighbor, OTR trucker..no word on price and appointment to view...maybe soon...think he is still out on a run. I can tell you this..it is the little nit picking details that eat your brain for lunch and steals away your time on these old car projects..it is also the nit picking details that set some car off more than others. If customizing a car...these little details and "applied ideas" are the only things that prevent you from having a cookie-cutter car.. I also got the bug to get more done at home when I saw all the nice rides at the curise...gets you hyped for sure...I am in shop cleaning mode..I do this often after vaious home repairs and stages of car work gets completed. Organized chaos at best...

Good deal...looking forward to pics...Bob stuck me as one very serious guy with work ethics not commonly found in today's world. His cars are proof of that as is his handiwork in the home and collection of collectibles.

I have not seen a cinder block in years...they are not to be confused with the cement blocks of today like found at most building supply houses. I have been told that they (cinder) still exist...these are very light weight items compared to the cement and are probably made more for the filming industry who crashes cars into walls and kung-fu high jumpers with flattened foreheads doing stunts.

Good stastics Greg...I for one will not have to worry about this for I have only bought one new car in my life (1973) and of the cars I have bought, most have been with me for better thann 5 years... I will be more apt to buy into the theory that in the period of time, 5 year mandatory inspection cycle..items that will be found that command documented owner cost routine maintenance performed at a participating dealerships to continue said warranty will by far outweight in cost to you a lot more than anything the boys from Germany will ever shell out. And as this appears non-transferrable..it is of no value to an owner looking to sell or a buyer looking to get a pre-owned vehicle..back to square 1...

Jim..I have sent a PM in regard to this subject.

excuse me..I had a serious problem reading..was thinking you were referring to the ring gear in the rear end and had a typo...accept my apologies please.. My newest "old" parts book show it to be 146 as you stated for Dodge D24 through the 47 year as this is the date of my book. Carries two part numbers..1119 993 and then the 11" clutch had part number 1120-632 both have the 146 count, 14.268 ID and the OD of 14.640 I have no idea if this is same/different for a Plymouth..I don't have a P15 book.

the ole Teapot shot will live forever...(unfortunately)