Plymouthy Adams

I run some good size meat on my 48 but suffice it to say am not stock in a lot of the drive train engine and suspensio....but with 225/75R16's I am at the point where you have to be cautious on hard cornering. For some reason while the axle is properly positioned with the frame, there is a slight variance in the frame to fender opening probably what Grep is also experiencing. I have a fix on paper but alas not done the actual mod to correct for this. Another item you will wish to add into your calculation for any wheel/tire upgrades..Measuring two other P15's here, all three were off a bit from the others....not an absolute as I have found.

one note here on the rear with wider wheels. The body will need be jacked fairly high to get the clearance needed to insert the wheel between the hub and the lip of the fender...often many folks don't like the height needed for a stock rim/tire let along going real wide here...do not overlook this with your pending measurements. See about borrowing a wheel/tire assembly of the size you intend to run for test fit.

the only reason to use widened wheels as I can see it would be to use stock poverty style hubcaps. If the poverty caps are not going to be used....then basically the choices are good for steel wheels, modern wheels from mopar run rather some large offsets making use with stock axles an adventure with use of spacers. Modern axles are a bit wider if you think to change them out for the better ratio, then you can opt for the modern alloy. Of course the front will still have need of adapters, upgrade here is involved.

this may sound a bit silly to some but did you check the fuse with the ohm meter, could be an open inside one of the end caps and not readily seen by the naked eye.....

check you light housing and sockets also....they could have been pulled taunt a bit, cut the insulation, pulled a pin in the socket to lay against the housing.....do not overlook your license plate light in this.

likely self inflicted wound, go carefully back over your work as you stated, was good before now bad after your maintenance action....look close for a pinched harness/wiring to the rear.....

maybe that happens when you scream....😱

all my experience with garage door rollers has been with all metal wheels and bearings...but......I also admit I have not installed a new garage door in over 25 years....with the latest door, a 10 x 10 curtain style. These seem to rely heavy on nylon bushes and torsion springs. I took apart one of these last month helping a friend with a busted spring so to order the correct springs to repair this door. These are not what I will call a fun job.....he ordered springs but so far that is as far into the repair as he has progressed....am sure I will be helping with this repair.

I have been growing the larger sweet onions for a couple years now and they are sweet and no heat and grow to an decent size bulb.....you can eat them like an apple. I have no scientific data as to why no heat but I got a good theory. When I plant I cut in some new top soil, it is mainly composted oak chips.....if this is prime for the result I get, I cannot prove, but they do well in this mix....so will continue the process. This year I cut in a lot of horse manure into my buckets and left to further decompose for spring planting, results were very noticeable. I will do that again this winter. Sad part is I get zero pollination for squash and zucchini. My pollinators are mainly carpenter bees....big commercial farming of cotton, soy, peanuts and such the chemicals constantly used is killing our pollinators. This year the surround fields were planted with watermelons....they rented bee supers for pollination, I benefitted from that this year.

most of the ever dry kits keep the wires dry but does not prevent water sitting in the plug well and in facts traps it there for longer time if not driven daily to evaporate the water with the added heat from running the engine. Recall a few comments on here with the horror stories of plug removal (actual breaking) with these installed on engine left to sit.

as stated long back, swan neck mirrors are an added touch but then you got to be willing to modify your car a bit and many cringe at that...thus the reason so many just resort to hanging the peep mirrors on and be done with it....

When in the army we were the relieving trick and would take the turnover.....often it would include a comment like pos 31 in area XX has been Fritzed....Fritz was not the most successful maintenance man.... usually the item he worked now required a complete alignment.

if you plan to seal it....seam sealer and RTV are not your friends here IF for some reason you should have need to remove the strip down the road. A good dum-dum putty found at the local paint and body is a very good product that is easy to apply, remove, work with as needed.

if you not planning on opening and closing the vent then why bother with the cost of a gasket as it so far from being rebuilt and functional that fixing in place with sealer would be in line with your build style. If are not planning functional side glass or as you put it no glass at all.....I wondered the very drain function here.

in most all procedures you will read, tapping the frame off carefully with a hardwood block is the usual process.....this is what I use and have never distorted a frame or broke a glass panel yet.....careful heating glass...if you really nervous and want to void the seal prior to any method you use for pulling the frame, an exacto knife will help or other razor blade you comfortable using....careful, while blood is a fair lubricant.....the shedding of it is not in your best interest.

there was a spring special in need of adoption that I saw about 15 miles from me sitting outside along side of a shed.....if nothing else, great yard art.

you could have had a good chunk of venison to go with all that....keep the raccoon....they useless...! I am not sure of the results but have replanted a few of my garden containers for what I hope may be a second harvest. First I tried this....will see how that goes.

I can see the similarity of the cow's face and the nose of the truck....😁.....good post...

thanks for the post, never seen these ever.....unique

Won't work as pictured Sam.....your battery is disconnected.......😄

you are correct some do but the Bosch square box automotive does not as they are not shown on the relay drawing.....so my reply was tailored around his stated choice of components.....funny you show this 200 amp relay, I utilized one of them in my recent Brit car build that only had two fuses total when I added an additional 8 fuses and powered the fuse panel from the ignition switch through this heavy relay. 200 was overkill but I liked the lugged terminals. I added lots of modern electrical features and brought the car into the correct century.

Napa is not at all competitive in my area.....and likely as you said they can get you what you want your time your money and both would be wasted here as higher and would have to wait for it to be delivered to the store. Now I know it is not this way at every location...but to assume every location is as what you are used to is also an assumption.

not saying that.....if supplied with two use both (strap and spring)....if supplied with one the contact strap is likely already bonded in place. Some units have the contact strap floating thus the second spring which is not a true spring but just a strap.

if you do not use both look for points bounce to be a major player in limited rpms and inability to achieve speed....

you confusing the thread, first you ask for a positive ground diagram as you could not find one, tell you how to do thjs by using the negative diagram and then just reverse the polarity marks on the battery....and now you compare that to the diagram for a positive ground which if you already had this diagram, what is the question.