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John-T-53

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Everything posted by John-T-53

  1. John-T-53
    Are those all dudes?
  2. John-T-53
    In full compliance. It's been a long but productive day! Spent the whole day making new valves for the truck. With the help of my buddy Steve, we successfully adapted 6 Chevy valves to fit the Mopar flat 6. These have thicker stems and will reduce my clearance within the existing guides to eliminate smoking and oil consumption.
  3. John-T-53
    It rained pretty good last week when I was on vacation, I came home and didn't find any puddles in the cab. It's been raining all day today and no leaks. This is really the first real test (first real rain this year) and I'm finally happy the windshield doesn't leak. I'd say the credit gets split halfway between the improved design and improved technique. This time I put urethane between the glass and rubber, and tightened the inside garnish trim a little more each day in the sun after installing. Also more liberal application of the glazing compound.
  4. John-T-53
    Great list indeed! Here's a couple more I recommend... (15) Keep a journal or log of all work done on the truck, such as oil changes, major repairs, etc., with date and mileage. Save all receipts. (16) Keep a growing list of part numbers that will speed up time at auto parts stores (and help the dudes behind the counter). p.s. Cool, just noticed I made it to "Guru"
  5. John-T-53
    One more comment on the civil defense marks... 1955 GM vehicle radios didn't have them, but 1956 and up did. I remember Bob at Bob's radio in Pismo Beach saying 1956 was the year most radios began to have the CD marks. BUT...other sources on radio websites say they began in '53, '54... I guess different mfr's implemented at varying times...but if you see the red army coming, just pull over and tune to 640 or 1240 for instructions on what to do next.
  6. John-T-53
    If you resort to a box rebuild, the place I've dealt with is Lares corporation in Michigan: http://www.larescorp.com/ I bought a rebuilt steering box outright from them for my Chevy 15 years ago, everything was cool. I called about the gear boxes for our trucks and they don't stock 'em but can rebuild them.
  7. John-T-53
    Need to do the same for my fronts at least. I got a 2" diffference side to side and the truck looks funny from the front. 48D hooked me up with a nice used set that I plant to take across to the other side of the bay to a guy who rebuilds them.
  8. John-T-53
    I was hooping to clean up my original paint too, although got some surface rust on the letters. I'll try to clean up very gently and polish the old faces with cleaner wax or just wd-40... we'll see..
  9. John-T-53
    NICE!!! Original paint on the faces?
  10. John-T-53
    Yeah, price is too high, but usually these classic car dealers always are way too high on everything. They rely on inexperienced suckers for clientel. Not a fan of the dash/column mods. I hate billet!
  11. John-T-53
    Another trip to the desert and here's some pics: This 1950 Truck apparently sold at auction for over $8400. It was clean, had bigger rear wheels which gave it a downward rake. 1960 Dodge Dart Pioneer went for $18k. 54,600 original miles. Repainted but had original interior. I REALLY liked this one and would have snagged it if money would allow! When was the last time you saw one of these? And, a nice original 1958 Studebaker I spotted later (outside the auction) but for sale still. This was featured in Hemmings Classic Car in June 2011. Original everything but tires. Very good condition! You don't see these very much at all either...
  12. John-T-53
    Steele retooled their windshield rubber. I had installed their previous version, but when I heard of a re-do I called them and got a return authorization. Got the new seal and redid the windows. It's now legit.
  13. John-T-53
    The stock guides are the same for intake and exhaust. Valve stem dia's are the same too. The guides available are just too bid I.D. where they are supposed to be undersize so they can be honed for the right clearance. With the Chevy valves, honing the ex. guides is exactly the plan. We still need to cut the head and the tip though. Just need a spring retainer to mock up first! If anybody's got an old one sitting around...
  14. John-T-53
    Anybody have a spare spring retainer and pair of keepers they could send me? I aquired Chevy valves with thicker stems that I'm gonna adapt. My buddy is going to help me machine them in his shop, the only question remaining is will the keepers work with the mopar retainer? I need a set to mock up, and since I need my truck I can't easily rob the motor for parts. The Chevy valves have a shaft of .344" which should allow some room for honing the existing guides. The mopar valves are .340". Any help is appreciated!
  15. John-T-53
    Looks amazin'! Price seems fair. Would have been more in my area as the environmental regs and bullsh*t fees out here are putting a big squeeze chrome shops in CA!
  16. John-T-53
    Very cool. You're making fast progress on that thing. Yeah, who got ripped a new one?
  17. John-T-53
    Nice! Is that original grey paint under the dash? Looks clean and rust-free!
  18. John-T-53
    No, will weld in something for sure. It's an old paint job, and as I repair different areas it's beginning to look more like a quilt. So not worried about weld burn-through. Eventually the truck will get a complete (paint job). Just need mo money. Thanks,
  19. John-T-53
    This place won't let ya down... http://www.cheetahslasvegas.com/ private booth is extra!
  20. John-T-53
    Exactly. There might even be a way to get a piece of sq. tube steel in there that could be attached to the cab shell. I'll hopefully be doing it this summer, along with the drip rails.
  21. John-T-53
    Whoa.
  22. John-T-53
    Like Jim shows, the reinforcing at the B pillar is critical. The original sheet metal filler panel here is just tacked and screwed in place. A reinforcing plate/bracket should be securely attached to the body, fully welded.
  23. John-T-53
    This load of pavers and sand stretched the limits of the 1/2 ton chassis yesterday. I still had about 2" between the rubber bumper on the springs and the axle housing, but it was slow going on the way home!
  24. John-T-53
    Here's some VPW #s...they came through for me. NOS clutch fork bushings: Part #'s CC306770 and 50519. I used them for the bellhousing holes but could also be adapted for the brake pedal - might require 2 kits. NOS Power Wagon clutch fork, part # 561537 (same as B-Series)
  25. John-T-53
    Must be a lot of heat loss through the glass!
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