Robert Horne

I have never heard of pouring ATF in the carb, but have heard of spraying a little cold water in the carb.

If I had a Red "Spitfire" Head like that, I would be the happiest kid in the world, but my Dad would not buy me one. He said, I would drop it on my toes, and I would not be able to talk along time because of all the soap in my mouth.........

Deathbound, I think if we use proper fuel lines, filters, and connections on our fuel supply, we should be ok there. Safer to stay away for rubber fuel lines, clear plastic lines or filters, and have good tight connection. I need to change much of my fuel supply, and routing, since I will continue using my electric fuel pump.....

The glycerin based antifreeze was at www.orisonmarketing.com/IceclearHD.html IceclearHD. Non Glycol type antifreeze..About $20 each gallon....

At 300 degrees water, they must have a high pound radiator cap.....

http://www.newsnet5.com/dpp/weather/winter/ohios-butler-county-indicts-punxsutawney-phil-over-late-spring-asks-for-death-penalty Phil may end up as "groundhog stew"......

The factory I worked at many many years made glovebox inserts for older Corvettes about every year. The inserts were made for .050 or 060 caliber jute/chipboard. I lined them with red flux linings, using walpaper glue. I see gloveboxs on ebay for my 38, that should fit other 30s Plymouths, but many are not the same size. My 37s are very different than my 38s......

Watched the NASCAR race yesterday. Car near the end was having a problem with coolant heat, 300 degree. Anyone know what type coolant NASCAR cars are using?

I used a small aluminum MC from an 80s small Dodge, I think was 3/4, in my 38 Coupe for 10 years. It worked ok, with all four wheels stock. I later used a 1 1/8 MC from a big Ford. I can not tell the difference from the small Dodge MC......

Found another type antifreeze, "glycerin" ... It was used in the 20s, but replaced with ethylene glycol, because of cost in the 30s. It is making a come back now. Comes from biodiesel. The website, says do not add water, at 100% has a boiling point of 228,,close to the boiling point of 50/50 ethylene glycol of 225.

In regards to racing venues ban flammable coolant, like Evans, and also regular antifreeze. I did not realize antifreeze was also flammable....Different flash point than Evans, but still flammable..

chopt50wgn,,,,, thanks very much for the info. Now I understand more of how & why Evans works.. I was concerned about corrosion using 50/50 antifreeze in my cycle for over 20 years, which has never overheated or dropped a ounce of antifreeze. The Evans, not using water,takes the corrosion worry away for me.. For 26 years my 38 has not overheated, or lost antifreeze. On a very hot day, at idle for 1/2 hour near my garage, the engine temp got to around 200 or so, using 2 cooking gauges in the top of the rad. My 38 has the temp sending unit at the rear of the head, and had a similar reading. Water seems to be the problem in cooling systems, for corrosion and overheating,(boiling over)... Evans seems to have answered both of those concerns. Since Evans is a lifetime coolant, compared to regular antifreeze of 5 to 7 years recommended replacement, Evans is a very good investment. Bob....

I read, , ethylene glycol has a boiling point of 387 degree. propylene has a boiling point of 370 degree.... If the Evans substance is using these ingredients, I can see their boiling point of 375. I do not understand how Evans can cool the engine, as compared to regular antifreeze that we add water too. With regular antifreeze, ethylene glycol, the boiling point is 387, but we add 50% water, to get a boiling point of 225.

http://www.evanscooling.com/ Found this info in a magazine for heavy equipment, for cooling systems, and not using any water. .

I let my 48 Dodge go to a new owner. I did not have to. I did not want to. My friend, JC, asked me many, many times to buy my 48. JC went to cruise-ins every saturday all summer with me. He drooled over the 48 every time he visited, and told of what he would like to do with the 48, have it painted to original, drive it to all the cruise-ins, etc. I let him buy it at a low price, since he has been a long time good friend, and going to keep the car close to original. About a week later, he sold the car for a big profit, to someone he knew for many years. I have no ill-will to JC. I am making a new sign to put on the wall. "Stupid",,,,,,,"Sucker",,,,,,,,works here...

""robert horne the master cyclinder in your pic is that factory or slightly modified to help with braking? also robert i think your local to me. jc here."" My master cylinder setup is, a rebuilt Mustang II from auto parts store, about $20. I left the original master cylinder in place, add a 9 inch rod to go through the original. There are several threads on here where others have done something similar. I hear J.C. Tenn, has cruise-ins near Auto Zone auto parts, have not been there yet. Here in Abn,Va, cruise-ins are on Saturday evenings, I-81, exit 17, Majic Mart parking lot, everyone welcome....

This 38 project has been so much more than a hobby for the past 26 years, and for hopefully many more years. It has been my therapy for when difficult time come along. I have spent hours and hours on the speedometer and gauges to try to keep them close to original, rather than just buy ones in good condition. My Coupe will never be a show car, for sure, but it gets alot of thumbs up at the cruise-ins, and along the highway. Not very many flatheads around here.

You do not have to spend alot of money to have a nice ride. In 1986, I paid $800 for a pair of 38 Coupes. Most of my repairs, and parts came from donor vehicles, trading for parts, or free. About $300 for my engine, 5 speed trans, and rearend. About $30 for all the interior, seat, headliner, panels, etc. I think, the biggest expense was the new glass, and rubber. Even if my Coupe was not driveable today, I have enjoyed every hour my Son and I spent on it, and every hour I will spend on it....money is just another tool to do the job....

My 48 had the fender skirts. Really made the car very nice, and the rear was a little lower than normal,(weak springs)....

There are several remote fill master cylinders available. I see them in hot rod books very often. On my 48 Dodge, with the Mustang II master cylinder, I had to replace that section of the floor, so made a small raised door to access the MC, maybe 1/2 inch in height, 8 inch x 8 inch wide. With the padding and carpet, can not tell it is raised......

On my 48 four door, the foor board near the master cylinder was bad, but as easy fix, all flat metal. The front driver fender, rear bottom section had a quarter size rust spot, easy fix also. I took out the seats for inspection, every thing was great. Trunk was great also....

I read that the AX-15 in some Jeeps, 1988-1999, have a two piece case, 24 inch long. I would like to get a measurement of the input shaft. The AX-5 Jeeps, 1987 - 2002, were with the 4 cyl engines. Jeep T5s, starting in 1982, #13-51, and #13-52, have an input shaft of 7.5 inch. If 7.5 inch is correct, it would be too short for my Plymouth/Dodge bell housings...

Earl, the Dakota trans looks like a good possible for a swap. The 2005, and 2006 you posted, may be also. If any of the trans can be attached to the Plymouth/Dodge bellhousing, and the input shaft is close enough to fit, would be a great project... I have been looking for a Jeep 5 speed also for measurements, I believe these are similar to the Dakota.....

So far, my friends have not got back to me with the Studebaker parts, for me to see if we can adapt some type of trans to the Stude engine....

Before I installed my oilite pilot bearing I put it in the freezer overnight. I believe it shrinks the bearing a little. The oilite bearings are a bronze color....