Robert Horne

More like " Jaw ja"...

When the guys did my concrete work, they did not put in "scores" or what ever you call it, for cracks that may develop later. Later I used a saw to cut in some "scores". So far, no cracks in the floor, but a couple of small cracks in front of the shop. I painted my floor with a 2 part paint type. Used a paint roller with a broom handle. Several years later, still looks ok, even with the floor jacks being used quiet a bit. I read an article on heating a garage floor using tubing under or in the concrete. Run warm or hot antifreeze through the tubing would keep the garage floor very warm. I wish now I had run some tubing in with the new concrete. My shop is not difficult to get warm, but the concrete is very cold most of the time.

And we usually have a bunch of scars, and bruises to remind us..

Here is the 12 to 6 reducer for gauges.... http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=12%20to%206%20volt%20reducer&_sop=15

I am using a 12volt ford gauge, with my plymouth gauge face on it. I have a Datson sending unit. I installed a 12volt to 6volt reducer, (for gauges), and it all works great. Running 12 volt gave me high readings on the fuel gauge....

Check out Jeep tanks on ebay. About $100 new. Some are 20 gal, some are 13 gal......and others.

You may need a little more escort security if coming by way of Cleveland, Ohio.

You may need a escort to help keep you awake, as long as you have seat belts....

You may need a police escort..

My Uncle had a 36 Plymouth Coupe for over 40 years. He installed a Chevy engine/trans/rearend. I have some of his parts on my 38 Coupe. I really enjoy my 38 since I installed the 5 speed Ranger trans. Hope your friend enjoys his 36....

Thanks Young Ed, very good to know...

The 56 engine I have (230), has the oil pump sump near the center of the engine, where as the 37,(218), engine I have, has the oil pump sump near the rear of the engine. This would be a problem for my 37 Coupe project, if I keep the stock suspension, (leaf spring suspension)...

I have a 36 Dodge bell housing, and a couple of 38 Plymouth bell housings. Either will hook up to my 56, 230 engine, that has 6 bolts on the crank. I have a 218 engine, with a 38 Plymouth bell, and a Ford Ranger trans combo in my 38 Coupe....

I believe the angle on the trans was 2, and the angle on the rear was 2, before I removed anything when I was running the stock rearend. I will have to go back and recheck everything. Before I installed the ranger rear, I spent some time and changed some of the leaf springs to get a better balance from one side to the other. The Coupe was a little low on the left before, is ok now.

Way to go Bob...:)

When I installed the TK5 trans, I shortened a Ranger driveshaft to 41 inch, and attached to the Plymouth rearend, 3,9 using a aluminum adapter I made. Coupe did ok, no vibration at 40 or 50 mph. Later, I installed the ranger rearend, 3.73, and cut down another Ranger driveshaft to 43.5 inch. The Coupe has a vibration starting at 40mph. I figure my 43.5 shaft not balanced, just got lucky with the 41 inch. Yesterday, I installed a 43 inch shaft from an Explorer I believe. I have a vibration starting at 50mph how. I am thinking I did not do a good job on the Ranger rearend install, angle not correct. I put the angle at about 2 degree. I was thinking also, maybe my "floating power motor mounts" have sunk, (old, and hard)... Back to the drawing board...

I also got my 6 volt at Tractor Suppy years ago. I got the bigger battery and has been good many years. In the winter, I charge the battery once each month with a 2 amp charger. On my cycle, (Goldwing), I buy Interstates, that last 10 years. I started buying Interstates for my cars now. I have not had much good luck with Exides that are made near here, 2 to 3 years use....

Hey Bob,, Nice December to you and your family.... Have you spent any time preparing a 2013 calender?

Wow Niel, great site. Those Hudsons always make me droooool. I talked to a guy last week, that just brought home a very nice 49, except it has a Chevy engine. he is looking for a good engine.....

That is real funny....:)

Rich, you are correct that the Town & Country shaft is different. My point was, that it is similar in looks on the ends, to my 38 Coupe. Right now, I am on the hunt for a 87 to 93 Mustang, 4 cyl, auto. driveshaft for my 38 Coupe, since I have installed a 87 Ranger trans, and a 95 Ranger rearend. As you say, many sellers do not know what they are selling, and often do not give good measurements....

Came by the driveshaft that looked similar to my Plymouth shaft, on the ends.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-Chrysler-Town-And-Country-Rear-Drive-Shaft-CV-Boot-Bad-4660369AB-/320899762218?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab71dc82a

In my 38 Coupe, I used the original 6volt fan, hooked to a 12 to 6 volt reducer, with a toggle switch. With the fan running, it reads about 8 volts....

Years ago, I found a sketch of a 37 Plymouth, which I printed and showed to a couple of artists along with a photo of my 38 Coupe. I wanted to hire them to make a sketch of the 38 similar to the 37 sketch, and have some tshirts made for gifts for family members. I never did get a 38 sketch, o well. Here are photos of the 37 year decal, and the 37 to 47 decals, I believe... The green/red 37 would be nice to add a "1937" on it.

You have a great selection of photos there.... I printed an iron-on photo on my printer, and then applied the iron-on, on a couple of tshirts. They came out ok, but do not hold up to too many washings.....