Robert Horne
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Everything posted by Robert Horne
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The way most wheels are embossed, rivets are no rivets does not matter...
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On my 38, I used a tube of silicon, made a bead, let sit for a few minutes, put on a layer of wax paper, closed vent, added some weight. It has never leaked...
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My 38 starts very easy with the 12 volt, after I installed an electric fuel pump. The 48 starts very quick with the big 6 volt battery. I keep a small bottle of fuel handy to give a small squirt of fuel before starting, if I have not started the engine recently....
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On the front drums, I still have the original setup on one side, and the other side I had to install new studs. On the rear, I never could get the drums off until I ground off the rivets.... I have tried very many different wheels with no problems, 16 inch, 15s, 14s, 13s......
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My 48 four door I left 6 volt, bought a 900 amp battery, does great. On my 38 Coupe I used a 1956 starter, generator, & regulator, (green tags), does great.... I used the 38 points/distributor as it was,,,20 years,,no problems...
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I have two office chairs in my shop to move me around, and two big pieces of cardboard to get under my project cars... The most difficult of working on my cars now is getting off the cardboard and up into an office chair many, many times...
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I have compared some 70 and 65 series tires also to get my Coupe a little lower.
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Pflaming is correct on these switchs. Many years ago I took mine apart to clean and lube. It has always worked good since. I seen a similar switch at the auto parts store.
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It has been several years since I did my front springs. On the front, I used a combination of original, Jeep, and 36 Dodge leafs, to come up with a setup I was happy with. Watch the bump stops also. You may have to trim a little off when going lower... On the rear, my car was a little lower on the driver side, so I changed a leaf or two, and in the process got the rear about an inch lower, and it rides very good now. Shocks, I will have to check my notes to see what I used front and rear.
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On my 38 Coupe, I used a few Jeep leaf springs sandwiched into my Plymouth springs, on the front... I believe I used shocks from mid 80s Dodge....
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I bought my windlace at Walmart, sewing department. I recovered the windlace with black leather...
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One night I received an unusual call, I believe not to be a scam, from a funeral home, that asked, "when was I coming in to pay for my funeral?". I informed them that I had not passed away yet, so I should not have to pay until that time. They were looking for someone with the same name as I, but with a different middle name..
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Modifications are like apple and oranges. I installed a Ranger trans 5 speed in my 38 Coupe. I made an aluminum adapter for the rearend to try the Ranger driveshaft and Plymouth rearend. The trans worked great. The adapter worked good also.. I later installed a newer Ranger rearend, with a Explorer driveshaft. Your situation is completely different though... Good luck..
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Lacquer thinner can be made of many chemical combinations. I believe Acetone is the fast drying version of one type lacquer thinner...
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On my Coupe, I bought my headliner material at Walmart, a blanket. The blanket has ribs sewn in about every 2 inchs or so.... The blanket has a double layer..
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I changed the driveshaft with one from a junkyard, an Explorer shaft..... Coupe does good at 55. More test later.
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I read some on the weld plastic, but have never practiced any. Today I cleaned, sanded, and cleaned again, then applied a thick layer of JB Weld. I heated the area before applying, and after for a few hours. I just want to make the Jeep driveable enough to drive around the neighborhood for awhile. I will let the JB Weld sit for a couple of days to cure. If engine/trans, etc. are ok, I may install into my 37 Coupe. If all goes well, I can buy a quality radiator later....
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But they improve your memory, and make you feel so good, and make you happy all day, and I can not remember the rest.. -
Has anyone repaired the plastic on the side of a modern radiator? I have a 98 Cherokee for a parts/donor vehicle for one of my Plymouth projects. The Jeep radiator has a small 1/2 crack on the top of the side plastic of the radiator. I have read positive and negative on JB Weld. I do not know what type plastic the radiators are made of. I found new radiators all aluminum on ebay for $133, I may buy later. Plastic type radiators are $60 on ebay, and $120 at auto part stores. Poor engineering by Jeep,, in that the radiators are held in place with 4 screws in the plastic along the top, rather than held in cradles of rubber inserts..... thanks,,,
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On a Jeep website, 3.07,,,,,3.55,,,,,,3.73,,,,,4.56,,,,,4.88 On Danas 35s,,,,1993 to 1998 I have a 3.73 rear, 5 speed TK5 Ranger trans, 218 engine. Real happy with this setup......
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I did a quick measurement today also, measurements close to yours. With the Jeep 33 inch or so with the fan. If the fan was taken off, that would shorten the lengh a couple of inchs. Put the electric fan in the front of the radiator to push air.
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I just brought home a 2WD/automatic Cherokee 1998 for a donor/parts vehicle. Has been rolled over. Runs good. Just an experiment, not sure what I will do with it.....
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Your dash looks very good. I installed a boat tach on my 38, seems to be fairly accurate.
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I used to get alot of information on "Inliners.org", I believe was the site. Great group of people their....
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We always enjoy your photos Bob....
