desoto1939

The brass contact which hold the horn wire would attach to the column. I you are looking at the assembly the brass unit screws in at 11, 4 and 7 as if on the face of a clock. There should be a horn button that holds the ring in place. there will be notches in the plastic button to mount the horn ring. Then there are three screws that come up from the back that screw in the horn button. rich hartung

Rockwood: In the version that I have for my 39 Desoto it does cover glass, sheet metal such as doors and other valuable data. Another good source is to get a rates book for the specific years of your truck. I n the section under each truck or car it lists the parts that were oftern replaced and or repaired and also lists the mopar part numbers. I have used mine numerous times to research requests for other members but it is a good source of information along with repair and setup information. Rich Hartung

The Hollander Interchange book was used by junkyards and used auto suppliers to identify which parts for interchange with other makes and models Here is a link to the Hollander website. I have an early version that covers my 39 Desoto. If you are going to get involved with the restoration of your truck or car this book is very valuable. It is the bible and they are correct. This way if you find a part you can checkthe book to verify if the seller really know his stuff or is just trying to make a quick sale. http://hollanderinterchange.net/ Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I did a search online and found a Texas company that builds driveshafts for our old cars and trucks. Here is the link www.driveshaftspecialist.com They quotes me a price for my 39 Desoto that has the Pin and Trunion at both ends of the driveshaft. They use the spicer parts. Cost $438 and approx $45 to ship to me in valley forge Pa. This is about the same cost that I am getting around locally. I also had another thought regarding the leather boot issue. I found one of these with the leather cone already build into the boot. This was an original and the number matched correctly. I found this at Hershey this fall. Since most modern cars now have frontwheel drive and use the CV joint we should beable to find a rubber boot that might be a little longer than the new replacement boot from the 50's and then clamp the new more modern synthtic boot onto both ends of the housing and driveshaft with the newer style hose clamps or even the plastic ties. HAs anyone ever investigated this possibilty. I currently have several of the Old Trunion housing and the repair kits so the cost of repairing is minor versus the cost of a new shaft. What is everyones opinion. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

My dad server in WWII as a radar technician. After he passed away in 1995 we were informed that ALL WWII veterans and their livinf spuses are eligibale for what is called Aid and Assistance. The VA does not make this known. This is free money that if the spouse is still living they can qualify for additioanl monthly income. You need to contact your local VA office and complete the necessary paperwork. It took us almost a year to get the funds but the good news is that they will back date the payment based on the date that you officially applied so we recieved 12 months of back payment. Since they use the date that you sent in the paperwork you should always try to get it in to the local VA at least 1 week prior to the end of a month. You are due these funds so make the effort to apply. My mom is now in a nursing home and now gets $90 a month from the VA that the nursing home can not get their hands on. This is a govt rule. So every little bit helps. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Since I was involved with doing a lot of bicycle repairs prior to getting the 39 Desoto I have several bicycle spokes in the house. I just use the end with the threads to push the pin out of the control mechanism. The door tool is nice to have but not required. A small awl is also great for doing this job and also is good to have in the tool kit in case you need to punch a hole in something when you need to make an emergency repair. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

You can purchase a thread and pitch gage. The guys that did a lot of lathe and metal work always had these in their tool kits. The gage will have various stand threads and pitchs that you pull out just like a feller gage. You match up the bolt thread by trial and error until you find the one that fits into the thread perfectly or as best can fit. They are pretty accurate. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Joe, If you are a member of the AACA then also report this transporter to them. If he is also a member of AACA they will drop his membership and this will also put him on a list of not to do business with for all AACA members. This is one time when the large membership of the AACA can affect a business. Just my 2 cents Rich Hartung

I looked at the pictures of this car and if this has had a ground up retoration then they missed some obvious items. 1. Hose clamps are incorrect in the engine compartment they have modern clamps. 2. Volt reg has rust on the top of the unit and not factor unit. 3. Noticed that the wiring harness is taped with black electrical tape. 4. Missing decal on air clearner 5. On the hood side panels they do not have the rubber strip on the top they did not even try to put the rubber aftermarket cushion into fill the holes. 6. Not to sure of the rim color combination. 7. Look at the picture of the hood ornament and the hood hinge at the fron there isa big gap and the hood hinge is showing the fron support this should not be seen. I hate when a car dealer is selling a high priced item and the obvious is not even corrected. This was a car owned by someone that had a lot of money but the resto shop did not do their homework. Way tooooo muuuuccch money for an incorrect car. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Since most of the newer car collectors do not have any information on their cars in regards to the correct point, rotors, caps and along witht he various other items such as gen, regualtors, carbs wiper motors, horns I have been copying all of my manauls that covers our cars and trucks onto CD's. This is a great way to know what specific parts are used on your car and also on other cars that cross over. The cost for the CD's are $15 and include shipping. So take the guess work out of trying to determine the correct part. Go to the store with the specific Autolite, Kem, Blue Stream, Standard etc part number. This makes it much eariser for the guy behind the counter to get you the correct part. Also so whn you go to a swap meet you also know what parts to purchase from your vendor and you can also get good old USA made in AMERICA parts and not the crap China or made in Mexico parts. Contact me for a listing of the various catalogs that I have. I cover most cars and trucks fromt he early 30 upto the mid 50's. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Joe, Attached is a picture of the tool that is used to remove the pin in the driveshaft. I have the tool and also the push pin tool that is used to set it to the proper height. Let me know if you want to borrow the tool. the tool number is c552 Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com detroint u joint tool.pdf

I have a 39 Desoto and this has the right lugs bolts on both the left and right drums. So the 38 would also only use right threaded lug bolts or nuts. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

My old Hollander interchnage book should list the numbers on the bearings. I will check my book and post what I find. My 39 Desoto used timken tapered bearings. The NAPA guy needs to go back to school. Rich Hartung

Ok here is some information that I was able to verify from my Motors Flat Rate book. These books are great becasue they also list the various major parts that were oftern repaired at the local garages. So i suggest that you pickup one at the next swap meet. The 1941 Ply deluuxe and Special deluxe does not have any listing for a vibration dampener. The 1942-47 which my book covers lists a vibration dampener for bothe the Deluxeand Special Deluxe. The Vibration Dampener Mopar Part number 896431 dampener Hub 677540 dampener hub key 52570 rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Instead of using metal spring clips that rust over time go to a good auto pait supplier and look at their supply of clips. They should have something in a plastic clip that will work. The plastic will not rust away and there is less chance of scrathing the paint when the molding id being put back onto the car. Since the clip is plastic the mouting tip goes in easier. I have only sued plastic when I redid my 39 Desoto. The judges will not see the clip becasue they are hidden. Go with modern materials and not old rusty stuff. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

You can ground the wire to any good metal surface. it should be clear of paint and rust. So run the ground line to a good solid point and drill a hole and tap with a screw and then attach the wire to the screw. The taillight will now be grounded. In my 39 Desoto there is no ground wire the metal taillight bucket basically is the ground because it touches the fender. But when you repiant the car or truck you sometimes lose the ground and then have to run a seperate ground wire. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Here is alink to one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-Dodge-Car-U-Joint-Cover-1935-1956-NOS-Mopar-Detroit-Universal-/370549563854?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item564679a1ce The covers are all the same. rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I went to Hershey and did some searching for the Sisson Autolatic Choke Gaskets. These have now become very very hard to find. I had an original so I decided to make a copy of one with some gasket material that I got from a local NAPA store. I am making these gaskets for resale. They have the punched mouting holes and I hand cut each gasket. The selling prices is $6 each and that will include shipping within the continental USA. Canada and to Europa might be additional shipping. If anyone is intested please contact me. In the pictures attached the gasket on the far right is the original gasket the first two pictures are of the repro of the top and bottom. Rich Hartung 20 Driftwood Dr Audubon, PA 19403-1942 Desoto1939@aol.com

If you look at the radiator behind the first girl you will see what looks like a Plymouth hood ornament. I would date this picture around 1936/37. If you look at the shocks in the first picture these were used in the mid 30's a back and the airplane were used in the late thirties. Any girl that can turn a wrench is always welcomed in my garage. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

here is a link to a gentleman in PA that is selling 6 volt LED bulbs. They are not cheap. http://www.highspeedmotors.com/Webled.html Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

But if you need an idea here is my suggestion. 53 Dodge becasue of the V8 and crusing ability 40 Desoto becasue of bigger 6 can cruise at 50-55 all day then any of the others. I prefer the desoto since i have a 39 Desoto and has been stated before there are not many pre-war Desoto's that are being seen at local shows. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Phil, with these older lockheed system a soft pedal was usually and indication that the brakes are out of adjustment. i have had my 39 Desoto for 25 years and had this very same issue and it was not air in the lines but the shoes were out of adjustment. What is happening is that when the shoes are to far from the drum then you push the fluid to expand the wheel cylinders since the shoes have to trvel an extra distacne then then brake has to get more pressure to move the shoes out further again so you have to pump to get more fluid and pressure in the line. If adjusted as per what I stated then he will get a good brake, but also remember that they will be a different feel that what we have in our modern cars and trucks. I have done several lectures on brakes for the AACA at their annual convention and refer to the tech section onthe Miller tool and Ammco tool. This is what I have presented. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Ed, Since I really do not know the entire situation I figure that he might have air in the line. Bleeding the brake with a mighty vac brake tool is a one person job. But since he diod not know what the minor brake adjust was just might want hime to completly check out the system and gain some knoweledge. Either way is a good way to figure out the pbm. I feel its the minor adjust issue. Rich Hartung

If you have checked that you are not leaking and brake fluid and have checked that the MC is full then I would rebleed the brakes. Start at the furthest wheel which would be the right rear, then left rear, then right fron then left front. If still a soft pedal then you need to do a minot adjustement. Put the car up on jack stands and make sure the car is stable. You will use the upper cam nuts that are the back of the brake backing plate. You will adjust one cam at a time. I always start with the fron wheels then do the back. Pull or push the nut so that the brake shoe is locked again the drum. The wheel is still on the car and the unit is then locked and you can not spin the wheel. Then back off the cam a little and you should be able to spin the wheel and hear a slight drag of the brake drum against the brake shoe. Then do the rear cam on the same brake. Adjust all four wheel in this manner. Then pump you brake pedal to get the brakes to set. Then check the MC and refill if needed. Rememebr that on these old cars you have to adjust the brakes since they are not self adjusting like on the modern cars. Also go the to the technical section and look at the two postings on Brake adjustment one with the Miller tool and the other with the Ammco Brake gage. This will also help. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com