wagoneer

Valves need to be backed off a bit? Maybe getting too hot and not enough space to cool off.

I'm pretty sure this requires a behind-the-scenes live-action video.

You may want to consider 1) backward and forward motion when braking and tie it down in that firection 2. Even going 10-20 mph ok that contraption will be scary especially if the straps give and it starts to slide 3. wear a helmet 4. borrow a truck as the camera car and tie that contraption I to the bed rather 5 have someone take camera the camera car for us to see M

@James-48-B1B-108 I have PM’d regarding transmission, manifolds and carb. (Have oil filter?) very keen on it for my b2b.

And I thought those "Unleaded Fuel Only" stickers were just redundant legislative labeling! More interesting might be the kind of vehicles running the leaded fuel? Are the big automakers making lead-compatible engines for those markets? Obscure auto and truck manufacturers? As has been stated multiple times on this forum, Chrysler, in its engineering wisdom, pre-hardened the valve seats for us obviating the need for leaded fuel.

@48 New Yorker To fix your original original issue for this thread, it sounds like the simplest fix is to just run hotter plugs. Go for the 306s, or the NGKs (I tried to get the B6S without resistor but couldn't find them, so I've been happily running NGK BR6S plugs). Your experiment is interesting, and I am excited to see the results. Should only take a few hundred miles, maybe? Leave the rest regarding PCV and Blow-by for stage 2 of your testing. I've wrapped myself around the axle enough times over thinking solutions, when I realize the paid mechanics tend to iterate step by step, always finishing the simplest fix first, and when that doesn't work, charge you for the next logical step... ? Simple fixes before tearing that beautiful engine down.

HI @Carl-Gustav Kickdown electrically tells the interrupter to cut out the ignition coil momentarily just enough to allow the gear shift . There is a great troubleshooting guide. Recommend reviewing the troubleshooting guide from MTSC -- https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/024.pdf and watching the videos -- https://mymopar.com/browse-mtsc-by-model-year-1949/ . See July and August 1949. The hydraulically controlled transmission uses similar principles standard transmission with solenoids and extra plungers to automatically push the synchronizers between the power gears (1 and 2), drive gears (3 and 4). In 1949, Chrysler MTSC did segments on both types of transmissions. They are really excellent to understand how it works, and why it works, and symptoms of failures, that will give you the right intuition to understand your own failure scenario: https://mymopar.com/browse-mtsc-by-model-year-1949/ Definitely watch and read the following and read the corresponding MTSC. That's my first go-to for understanding. Interestingly, the videos have MORE information than the reference books. Shop manual makes a lot more sense then. 1. Standard Transmission https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1949-volume-2-6-transmission-fundamentals/ https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/018.pdf 2. Troubleshooting standard Transmission https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1949-volume-2-7-troubleshooting-in-the-transmission/ https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/019.pdf 3. Hydraulically operated Transmission https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1949-volume-2-11-inside-the-hydraulically-operated-transmission/ https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/023.pdf 4. Troubleshooting the Hydraulically operated transmission. https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1949-volume-2-12-how-to-service-the-hydraulically-operated-transmission/ https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/024.pdf

Welcome to the forum! Great finds. You should be able to get at least one car out of the three. The Desoto should have a 251 25" block, and the Dodges will be 23" 230s. Gyromatic and Fluid Drive are the same - fluid couplings. Those fluid couplings can be tricky because they are sealed, and take a special fluid, and connected to hydraulic semi-automatic transmissions.

We debate elsewhere on color schemes, and it looks like this is our definitive example. It's a later model but still in spec. The headers look golden? Is that silver patina? Is that silver --- aluminum silver -- @PT81PlymouthPickup You have to put that engine in soon! It's calling out to be used, and wasting away before our eyes. I'm sure 39' owners were swapping in newer W engines back in the day.

@48 New Yorker The plans for PCV call for replacing the carburetor idle orifice tube and replace with number 862322 (available from ams nos) but that is the P17 L6, and not your L8 and stromberg carbs. There was discussion here awhile back (can't find link at the moment) about the PCV robbing vacuum as well as causing the carb to incorrectly idle due to the blow by going back into the base. Someone here may remember better the nuances.

My Chrysler gets better gas than I ever put into my daily drivers; the local shell stations sell 89 ethanol free and 93 ethanol free. Normally I never buy anything above 87, but she runs real nice on 93.

What an interesting note. Aussie Pilothouses had 12v before American Pilothouses; even a proper fuse box. I can't tell whether it's better to be 6v positive ground, or 12v positive ground in terms of compatibility with modern electronics. To switch to 12v negative ground, is it any easier, or compatible with 12v neg ground electronics? Since Aussie Pilothouse trucks kept the same body as US 48-50 Pilothouse trucks, then all the equivalents are there too. Here's a thought - ordering a 12v Aussie wiring harness for our US pilothouse trucks? 12v alternators are cheaper and more plentiful. Simple conversion?

@The New Guy Looks like you have a 1953-1955 108B Deluxe Suburban model. According to the service manual, the serial number should be on the dash panel. KEW* engine codes started in 53, and body style changed in 56. So you are in 53-55. Dodge Pilothouse Club Aussie Page-- Full of good information -- http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/garage/garage.htm Special purpose units http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/garage/5558brochure/P6a.html "basis for fitment as an ambulance" http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/garage/garage.htm May 1953 to July 1955,108 A and B The 108 A was a carry-over from the Canadian import model. The A model used the earlier Canadian steering parts, and Canadian chassis. The B model used a different steering box (fore-aft motion) and tie rod system, and the chassis were locally produced. All body panels were now produced in Australia. All models had the electrical system changed from the 6V Autolite system to a 12V Lucas positive earth system. Both A and B models 108`s, until early 54, came with three engine choices. All long blocks. (25”) T307 =218.06 (3 3/8 x 4 1/16) T311 =228 (3 3/8 x 4 ¼) Kew 2B =250.06 (3 7/16 x 4 ½ Usually called 251cu”, in Australia) From early 54 on, all 108`s were fitted with a KEW-2B, 251” standard. The 108 GVW was increased from 4850 lbs to 5250 lbs. Model range included 108A Standard (1068 produced, model ended July 1954) available as-Standard Ute only. 108B Deluxe (5697 produced) available as- Standard Ute, Deluxe Ute, Tray Top, Panel Van, Suburban (Panel Van with windows, single seat, bench seat, 3 seats), and Express. The words, standard and deluxe, after 108 are used as a way to distinguish between the A and B models only. There is no difference in the cab options. Australia used (from 48) the cab with door vent windows and rear three windows. In Canada and the US this would be called a custom cab. To my knowledge we never had the single rear window cab. There is however a large difference between the Standard Ute and the Deluxe Ute in the108B (C, D, E, F) model line. The Deluxe Ute was also called the Coupe Ute. From the service manual:

Hi @The New Guy its a 1948-1950 model . There should be another stamp on the door jam of drivers side with the serial number and model number . http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/vin/model.htm https://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php

46-48 imperials have brake boosters. I have never seen one myself but they have to be out there somewhere. Wonder if there are any NOS ones . They should bolt right in to our 46-48s

That’s cool; I had tasked my son with this duty to “hack it”.

@48 New Yorker for your original question, I think based on your description, you need hotter plugs to burn off the soot. I refer you to following excerpts from MTSC linked above: Regarding the highlander, it seems to me the sms fabric is a bit more woolly texture than original. I can see that is how yours looks. It looks nice; I’m curious if that is how it was originally? @chrysler1941 True that radio interference is a motivator but according to MTSC there are other advantages that is described as like an oil filter - keeping good spark in and leaving bad interference out, and they compensated for extra resistance by increasing voltage for the ignition coil. @48 New Yorker

The PDF print function is password protected. @P15-D24 As the original uploader, are we able to get a version that does not have the print password, or are you able to share the print password for this particular file?

@chrysler1941 Resister spark plugs standard equipment starting in 1950. There is a great MTSC covering the whole topic, and the transition from A5/A8 to AR5/AR8 covering topics like how to choose which is right for the customer . https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/036.pdf @48 New Yorker Have you checked your vacuum advance is working properly? I have two, and neither is any good. I'm looking at retrofitting a more modern (late 60s) to my old one to get a reliable vacuum advance. What a beautifully done interior; I was just thinking to have my own highlander redone, and the springs fixed in my seats. Where did you order material from? SMS? I got a sample from them but it looked too heavy to me . I see you didn’t get the carpet done yet. I was also thinking the same about bias ply tires. I too have radials, and I wanted simpler steering. How is your braking and steering now compared to with radials? my odometer reads 14300 and an inspection sticker from 1998 says it had 11300. I’ve put 900 on it myself in the last year! “Elise” (all my cars and trucks are called Elise) has been mostly a parade car, and somebody did a nice restoration some unknown years ago (likely 20 or so). unclear how accurate the odometer is but the car doesn’t feel or sound like 114000; it’s just too good of a shape and still feels pretty original. I too get blow by from the rings but I hope to do an in place piston ring job .

@48 New Yorker Sounds like a beautiful vehicle you have; The description alone is pure poetry. One day I am going to get a straight 8 for myself. That's a rare engine with beautiful engineering in and around it. I'm running NGK BR6S plugs in my 48 Windsor 6, and in my recent testing, are really solid and bright sparks compared to Champions and Autolite spark plugs. I run them at .035 gap. As far as I can tell, the only reason Autolite A5s (resister less .025) were recommended was due to the technology not being prevalent yet. In 50, all of the DPCDs moved to resister plugs (.035).

In principle, the fluid coupling fluid should be changed at some service point, as every part of every machine needs service or wholesale replacement at some point. I think the barrier at this moment is not the changing but the cost to change due to the current recommended fluid coming in 5 gallon quantities and $160. torque converter and trans fluid is replaced periodically , why not this other fluid coupling. maybe if the fluid didn’t move or potentially degrade it really could be lifetime, but the life of a vehicle was on the order of 10 years then, not 75.

Looks like your cooling system hasn’t been flushed in a loooong time, and possibly was exposed to elements because that loooks like leaves and other junk. You are probably having overheating issues? All your fluid is coming back through that little internal thermostat bypass hole instead of through the thermostat. Take off that top thermostat housing (don’t dig it out just yet). You’ll find underneath the remnants of your thermostat . Clean it up carefully, and see if you clean up any junk you can . same with your radiator - flush water through it until it comes clear . There is also a petcock drain you should open and clear. take like a long metal coat hanger and stick it in the water distribution tube (round D hole) and dig around to loosen up any compacted sediment. now would be a good time to flush your block with low pressure and then increasing pressure to start getting crud out (high pressure may just compact things more). Flush with a hose by putting it in top of head and junk comes out from that WDT. when you are feeling a bit more in depth amd have time, you should probably plan on opening up the bottom two Welch plugs to clear out sediment from your block built up over time, as well as replace your water distribution tube . Doing so will essentially deep clean your block to ensure good water circulation and cooling. see WDT rip and replace see this good video on Welch plug clean out from our fellow forum member @keithb7

HI @WPVT Others on the forum have said that their trucks max out at 45/50 mph due to the low rear end ratio. It could be also you are approaching redline , so things are really shaking then, and maybe something slightly worn/loose is echoing through. My B2B is 4.1 differential ratio, and with stock wheels, we have a bit of an issue.Redline is 4000, so in final 1:1 drive, the max is shaking at 45 mph. You could increase your tire size for a modest improvement in top end.

Thank you @Loren for also piquing my interest in reviving my non-working clock. I too will enjoy this inexpensive jaunt into horological restoration. Amazing how many NOS items are still out there! Just think people kept those around on shelves or warehouses for 72 years just waiting for you to call them and order ! I’m blown away how big the market is for DCDP parts that we have so many vendors selling NOS and new parts 75+ years later.

$15000 - $20000 most any day, but you may see it for more. These fancy totally restomod trucks can go up to $35000. Person probably has at least $20k in it; nice paint job, new running gear, etc. he’s probably asking $25000 You can never get out of these trucks what you put into them. These are super hot in the market now; restomod trucks. My wife would love one that’s brand new underneath with modern amenities but classic truck on the outside. That’s not exactly what I’m building for her….