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Kyrie

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Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    1948 Dodge COE WHMAX

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  • Location
    Gold Beach Oregon
  • Interests
    getting this ride road worthy

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  1. I thought I posted prematurely and was right! I have the indicator and brake switch on 12v while keeping the rest on 6 volt. Wasn’t hard or costly..just a tad confusing but guess what… victory! It works without any added circuitry nor the expense of replacing generator, coil, starter. Glad I listened but thanks for trying!!! Now to wrap all my wires up and into the body clips! ?
  2. I wired my 2 6v batteries in series so I can keep all of my front-end electronics&motor 6 volt original and have the option of 12v to power a phone charger. I got lazy and grabbed 12v magnetic trailer lights and am trying to make them work. I have no clue about 12v negative vs 12v positive. So that’s where I’m at…. I’m refurbishing this old truck simply from common sense ? and the original shop manual!
  3. So just got done building the wiring harness when I got lazy! I decided since I am wiring two 6v batteries in series to have both 6v and 12v options, I would just wire my 12v trailer lights up to my 48 WHMAX. I know, ghetto , but the money pit is killing me! So I also have a Signal -stat 900 turn signal switch. The in line fused load wire goes to the ammeter which is 6 volts. The lights and switch are 12v. The signal stat also hooks up to the battery switch. If I need to run 12 volt taillights and can also go 12 through the signals. How do I hook it up? The load for the signal switch should be hooked up to battery (12v) and it is also connected to brake switch. Can I only use one terminal of brake switch? I thought I would need to power the brake switch from battery but thinking maybe the signal switch connection to battery will also power brake switch. I’ll post a drawing as it sound so confusing!
  4. Just purchased the truck and was told that it.was "running like a sewing machine" when started and driven 6 years ago. When I removed the radiator, tons of water poured out and when I removed the tubes....whammo rust flakes the size of corn flakes! I vacuumed as much as I could, flushed, soaked vinegar overnight x 2 and flushed again. I haven't even touched the radiator. My engine is a straight 6 251 cu.in. 25" (which means everything is more expensive) and 2 ton (which means can't get parts). I am wondering if anyone can get their hands on the specs for the heads of this motor as I have access to a aluminum CNC mill. Thank you all so much for the replies and videos!!! I had no idea about a welch plug and there was no bad news! Thank you again !!!
  5. This is what my water pump looks like when removed And this is what my block looks like..... There is an indentation that resembles the shape but from my manual it looks like the water pump is supposed to have two holes. I did find this after I removed radiator to find this I'd love to hear all the bad news!
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