Sniper

Where the jack stands go really depends on what you're trying to do. There's another post recently where somebody thinks something's binding in their steering. In that case I would put the jack stands under the control arms so that I could get under the car and observe the steering and it's normal position without the wheels hanging down. I wouldn't put them under the control arms because I would want the arms the group to make more room to do the brakes. So it just depends. Same thing for the rear if I need to take the rear tires off I got to have the axle drooping otherwise I don't have room. No I do not have stock with tires LOL

All I can say is ask them. It appears that those bushings are in the kit but I'm not 100% sure

https://www.moparmall.com/Front-Rear-Spring-Shackle-Bushing-Set-for-1936-p/360-021.htm

Wouldn't that would be your vehicle that was not properly maintained? Not too hard to find the source of that problem, fixing it though is another story,

Plumbing solder/flux is usually acid based, use electronic solder and flux. Yes, you want good strain relief to prevent this from happening again. When I rewired my 51 every connection was crimped, soldered and heat shrinked. Then the wire runs were taped together using cloth electrical tape for further relief.

My 51 had no issues running during snowmageddon a couple years back. Got close to zero here for about a week. To be honest though, when it gets that cold with snow on the roads I don't generally go out at all. But I had to get groceries, no power at my house, power in other parts of town, lol. Needed more gas for my generator, unless I wanted to siphon, no thanks. Heater was so so, still need to address that.

Thanks for the follow up.

I just got back from a trip out shopping, well trying to shop but it seems I was up before the stores were open, slackers, lol. Got the old Plymouth up to 65 today. She likes to run. A totally different experience from my work truck (2022 Chevy). She talks to you, you feel the road, the wind, the whole shebang. In the WT you are isolated, really isolated. Heck the Plymouth has much better visibility too.

What about one that has been asked, and answered, repeatedly? Some sites I go to have a tech section that has lots of useful, but unused, information there. Noobs never use it. Alas, I know not what to do, lol.

Well, being that we were talking about a T5 I was think manual, not automajic. lol I do not like automatics.

Using an I phone I take it? That file format isn't openable with my windows machine. Anyway, seems there are too many suppliers using the wrong thickness brake friction material out there, probably your issue. How to fix it? Well here's come help

https://p15-d24.com/topic/37803-got-my-413-flathead-delivered-today/#comments

A relevant title to your posts would help people notice what you are asking for.

Most people looking to run an OD are looking for the highway aspect of it. Now sure why you'd need to run around in OD in the city. Not really quick or easy, not to mention you now also need a new driveshaft, assuming you are using the original MoPar OD and not something like a T5. Then you need to fab up some sort of actuating system to now use those parking brakes. Don't forget to set the pinion angle and address the fact that the early MoPar leaf springs are narrower than later springs and you may need to cut off the donor's perches and put on new ones. I will admit that when I swapped in a 9 1/4 into my 38 Plymouth the perches were not an issue. Since I was also swapping in a 360 and automatic the driveshaft was going to get redone anyway. All of it is doable, but if adding later drum setup is a simple matter of some easy machining I'd look there unless I needed a stronger rear axle.

That machining is for the hand crank. Can't help on the socket size though.

Not sure it's a hijack, it is heater related. But good luck getting it working properly, again

Parts stores used to carry them, might still. They are called defroster hoses. Measure the diameter of your pipes and buy a new set. https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/hoses/lines+&+clamps,defroster+hose,defroster+hose,308

I remember years ago I was driving my 86 Daytona thru Colorado in the winter. this was in January of 86. It was so cold I got no heat out of the heater and my windshield was frosted up Had to root around in a dumpster for some cardboard to block the radiator to get heat, it worked.

If there is any juice in the battery a push start should do the trick.

These are the kind of questions that are based more on YOUR abilities than anything else. You do not mention what year Mustang, they started making them in 1964 and are still making them so the answers vary, a lot. I have seen where some have essentially cut the floor pans and fire walls out and merged the new under the old. Putting an old body on a new chassis. Here's a summary video of one such endeavor.

When I first got my 72 Dart I had that issue when the first cold spell hit, such as it was in San Diego. Turns out the heater got used so rarely that the core was mostly plugged up. Removed the heater hoses and used a garden hose to flush back and forth several times till the water ran clear, both ways. Great heat after that. Which reminds me, my 51 has the same issue,

It is my understanding that later model brakes can be adapted to work, giving you a parking brake AND more readily available drums.

Plate departure is a more accurate setting than pedal free play. I usually shoot for .060" gap with the pedal to the floor and let free play be whatever it is. The adjustment is the same, linkage. Just measuring a different parameter is all. Now I will grant that I have not, yet, done this on my 51 so I have no idea how difficult it might be to measure that gap.

741, 742 and 489 are the last three casting numbers of the commonly used center sections, there are other numbers too. 741 is the "weakest". Stock, 742 is arguably the strongest. 489 uses a crush sleeve that can collapse under high HP applications causing catastrophic failure. An inexpensive shim and spacer kit fixes that and makes it top dog of the three. I know the gear carrier interchanges between them, but that's about it, for the center section anyway. As for the casting numbers referring to what body they are in, not really, it's more of an application thing. /6 car, likely to have a 741. Big block automatic, 745/489. But even that is dependent. My 64 300 stick car had a 742, later BB stick cars usually got a Dana.

Well, I have an 8 3/4 in the garage I could compare to the axle in my 51.