Sniper

Those spring looking extensions don't work on tight bolts. My suggestion, when I was teaching my son things, is that you take the hard bolt out first, that way you aren't fighting with the part trying to fall off on you when you're dealing with the hard bolt. Not too sure that applies here though. Take the floor pan out.

If my starter ever needs replaced I will have my son do it. He needs the character, lol.

Any reason you couldn't use a stud there?

Speaking of oil filters... Helped my son change the oil in his BMW. This is the second change we have done since we bought it. The last oil change we put in a Wix oil filter. When I pulled it out of the canister yesterday the end cap came off in my hand. Wix had been my go to for a very long time, but they got bought out a couple years ago by Mann and Hummel, a German company that supposedly had a good rep. Not so sure about that now. We won't go into the ham fist goon of a son that I have who stripped the drain plug in his aluminum oil pan. Other than to say the apple does not fall far from the tree. He about threw up when I told him a new pan, from BMW, was $800. Yes, we used a torque wrench, it was set to 18 ft/lbs. I had him watch the how to replace your oil pan video on that. Between the tools they say you need and the parts as well, just doing it ourselves, he was looking at over $1k to fix his boo-boo. I introduced him to the tap, drill bit and slightly larger drain plug, under $50. He learned a lot yesterday. Lol

Thanks to you, now and in the past, I do know what that term means, lol

They are, standard SL-2 is what I use. Here's the MSDS pst-superlube-2-sds.pdf

I do not like leather accelerator cups. They tend to dry out and warp and then you got to replace them. But other than that good points

I don't think OEM Carter kits are ethanol resistant?

Were those NOS or new production points?

You have to have fresh, filtered air into the crankcase to replace what is being drawn thru the PC setup. The oil breather is a filter and can supply that air. This is exactly how hte factory PCV setup onmy 5 Cuda works, as well as the one that was on my 64 00 Unnecessary additional work.

I have found new production points have rubbing blocks that wear out fast. So yeah, that is probably your issue. As for the analyzer question, 5:27 for the points test, it's a resistance test.

I don't have a MoPar new enough to have a computer, but I have friends that do. AlfaOBD is the preferred DIY scanner for mopars. https://www.alfaobd.com/

My son and I did the brakes on his BMW. When we were down I torqued all the wheel bolts then I had him do them a second time as a QA thing. He was pushing down on the torque wrench and having a heck of a time getting them to spec, OTOH and being a fat ass, can get away with doing it like that. I showed him how to pull up on the wrench so he could use his legs instead, worked like a charm. So, are you using your legs? lol BTW, the jack handle, once removed from a floor jack, makes a real handy cheater pipe.

If it's not puking, it's not overheating. 200 degrees after a heat soak, only value given, isn't even running on the hot side to be honest. An actual value given for the engine running at at temp would sort this out. All that is doing is blocking airflow and that assumes it's even blowing the correct direction. Yes, I know, but I have see people wire them up backwards and have it blow towards the grille rather than the engine.

We aren't even sure it is overheating. As Loren stated 200 us not overheating, What makes the OP sure he has an issue? I don;t see any numbers given, other than once shut off and it heat soaks.

I used to have an old Opel wagon that would pop out of third if you didn't hold it. I used to shift from 2nd to 4th most of the time but lot's of times I needed third.

Out them n my P23, raised the front end up quite a bit over the 70+ year old originals. I have no idea what it is compared to the stock original ride height. . Handling was improved quite a bit, again compared to 70+ year old original springs. I also put in performance gas charged shocks. Yes the Moog springs are shorter, unloaded. Loaded, they sit higher due to the increase in spring rate over the originals.

Your starter solenoid should have three terminals two big ones and a little one one of those alligators Clips goes on the little one and the other alligator clip goes on to the big one that has the cable hook to the battery

If I recall correctly, when I was looking into that specific booster setup it was only good for drum brakes?

PCV's work backwards of how I'd think they would. minimal flow at high vacuum, max flow at no vacuum. But if you think of it with regards to blow by, then it makes sense, minimal blow by at idle, maximum at WOT. https://haynes.com/en-us/tips-tutorials/what-pcv-valve-and-what-does-it-do Keeping that in mind will help you tune the areas most affected.

Well, the PCV is a metered vacuum leak so retuning isn't unexpected.

Do your research. Plenum volume comes to mind.

That would be dependent on the kit used. In the download section I added the instructions for the Rusty Hope kit I used, it has that info, for the most part. I also, in this forum, ran thru my thoughts on that kit. That kit has it's issues, as do the instruction it included. My thread adds the info it should have and details into issues I saw.

WD40 has it's uses. I used it as a prewash after I get home from the range. Does a decent job of washing carbon out of places. As a cleaner, yeah, as a permanent lubricant, no. A nice dry film lubricant comes to mind, you don't want something sticky catch grit and tearing things up.

Good luck is all I got to say. I think George Asche makes, or made, one. Other than that, Ebay.