Sniper

One of the reasons you should add a PCV system, it'll help contain the acid issue.

Brake fluid?

Have someone step on the clutch (you need the clutch pedal working) while trying to install. This will release the clutch and allow the disc to move and align to the shaft and should seat the trans.

No feedback on the specific question, but back when I fooled around with Isoclamp cars the trick was to delete what you could (leaf spring rubber mounting) and replaces the body mounts with aluminum bushings, there were also poly bushings. Really tightened up the handling. I don;t knpw that anyone makes anything out of rubber any more that isn't garbage. Casting poly isn't too hard. Figuring out what you need as the final dimensions though...

Wrong bushing then. Chrysler has used the same pilot bushing from day one all the way up till the 90's when they went with a roller bearing setup.. Yes, you can use the tool on an already installed bushing, but looking at that picture however you installed it to begin with looks like it really messed the bushing up. The Mopar part number for that bushing is 53298 and it is an oilite bushing. SKF B286, DORMAN 690005 and TIMKEN PB286 are some other numbers.

EBC brakes seem to have good quality, if they make a set for your ride.

Burnishing tool. which sizes the bushing to fit properly https://www.ebay.com/itm/224882347274

Old timer is wrong, or you have the wrong bushing Lots of ignorance parading around as old timer wisdom. A solid brass bushing looks nothing like an oilite bush. Brass is a bright yellow looking metal, oilite is a darker, sintered bronze, oil impregnated metal. This is what oilite looks like This is what brass looks like

Lol

Moparpro is a great place to way overspend on parts. There is nothing special about him.

What is your altitude? The acceptable vacuum value drops as you go higher in altitude.

Well, in that case I will put together a kit and charge even more for it, I'll include bulbs, lol.

I put this radiator in my 51 Plymouth, it fit. It works. No on will confuse it for original, even if you paint it black like I did, Use your original cap, or one of similar pressure rating

Autoclave gauntlets would prevent burns

My 51's vacuum line is routed similarly, across the head, Ian has a 40? Odds are they changed it.

You can buy non-ethanol gas around here for your car. It's about a dollar a gallon more and it's 87 octane only, I don't care one way or the other, I drive it enough that I don't have to worry about the gas going bad on me.

In order for fuel to leak thru any porosity there has to be fuel on the other side. Which, if I am reading this correctly, is the top of the carb that is missing in your picture. If that is a correct interpretation, drop your float level and see if it still happens. I also suspect that fuel rushing in from the needle and seat area is probably spryaing ont eh backside of that missing top?

I dunno, the heater motor is easily replaced with a 12v, the one I used on my 51 costs a whopping $31, new from RockAuto. Since the insulation was failing on the original 6v motor this was a no brainer. Wiper motor, you can buy a 10A 12v to 6v converter for $22 from Amazon, that takes care of the wiper if you have electric wipers, otherwise not an issue. The only gauge that is voltage sensitive is the fuel gauge and that is only the later, non thermal types. Not sure it applies to the OP's 49 truck or not. But if your fuel sender has more than 1 wire then it's not affected. You can use a runtz resistor or just feed it from the voltage converter powering the wipers. Swap the ammeter wires if going to negative ground. Bulbs That's it. Well you do have to swap in an alternator. Not hard to do, not expensive and no fancy brackets needed. In my case the 51 had 12v battery cables on it when I bought it, still was a 6v system. Lot's of other hackery the OP's mechanic did. If you have a ride that has vacuum wipers, no heater and the thermostatic fuel gauge then all you have to swap are the bulbs. Almost so easy even a caveman could do it, I had a guy stop by with a 51 Chevy that could have been my Plymouth's brother, black exterior, grey interior, coupes. Anyway, he wanted me to convert it to 12v because his headlights were too dim. After inspecting the setup turns out it had 12v headlights in a 6v system, No kidding they were dim, lol. I gave him my old 6v headlights and once swapped out he was happy. Saved him a few dollars. I don't really have a dog in this hunt. But I do not like seeing people bent over at the cash register wanting to do something that isn't that expensive to do.

Assuming the old line is what you want to copy, it may be a mess for all I know, lol.

Yeah, you see that on occasion, the book is wrong, the people that wrote it are long dead, the people that worked on them new are long dead, those of us still farting about with the cars are having to reinvent the wheel, pun intended. lol. Fortunately, the internet lets us all be wrong together. 😜

I used to have a 38, but I will be darned if I remember how the steering was setup. Ok, I found a picture of a 37 Plymouth steering setup, it is not like your manual states.

Does it show that's it's a solid axle and not IFS? Because a 37 is a solid axle car. I think 39 is the return to IFS and that is what you are probably seeing in the manual. While I do not have a 37 FSM, I do have a motors manual, they show the Y setup you mentioned as starting in 39, unfortunately they do not mention the earlier setup at all.

Stainless can rust.. When I was in the Navy they called it cres steel, for corrosion resistant, which it is, but if you actually drive it and whatnot, it'll rust eventually. For a show poodle, yeah it can polish up nice. But for most of us, not really useful. Having spent a lot of time in the Navy polishing various shiny things, I'll pass on self inflicted polishing, lol. Cupro-nickle is easier to use and way easier to form a proper flare on, whereas stainless can crack right at the flare if you don't do it right. When I worked in semiconductor R&D we used a lot of stainless lines, but we did not use flares, we used compression fittings. Those are much more user friendly but not legal on an automotive braking system last time I looked, nor did we have the pressures involved that you would see on a braking system, In any event, it is your choice, just know the issues so you can accept and deal with them is all. I see a lot of how to videos out there for doing stainless brake lines, while the videos look easy, I suspect there are years of experience behind them.

Truer words were never spoken

Stainless steel is more brittle and work hardens easier and it does rust. Not better on many fronts.