Kilgore47

Solar lights will be the way to go so I don't have to run power out there. Some of those clamp on lights that are advertised as flag pole lights would probably work.

Done.

Just add a rope seat belt - keep it under 90 - it will be fine.

The carbs on these old cars are easy to work on. Many times you can take one apart and clean it up without a kit and get the engine running much better. You could try that before you re route everything for the YF. I'm surprised that the dealer hasn't tried to get it running better. There could be something other than the carb making it run bad. You may want to have a compression check done.

This is something I have wanted to do for a long time. A bottle tree. But I'm going to call it a glass tree. It's going to have everything from bottles to glass vegetables on it when it's done. And yes that's a glass head in the middle. Those were popular in the 80's and 90's. The project started out with a piece of 2" pipe I had laying around. Then I got some 1/2" round rod and started cutting, bending and welding. It has 12 branches with 3 limbs per branch. It will have 60 or so pieces of glass on it when it's done. Some will be hanging from SS wire (the glass vegetables). More news latter

We called them make out knobs. Or something like that. You could have your arm around your date and drive with the other hand.

I keep starting fluid in my shop. I have an old Jeep that refuses to start if I let it sit too long. A shot to the air cleaner and it cranks right up. After that - no problem - starts every time. Let it sit for two or three weeks and it just wears the battery down trying to start it. I have replaced the ignition system, by passed the computer and rebuilt or replaced most of the fuel system. It's just an old worn out engine.

After 40 years that's got to feel really good. I have a video from when I first got the 47 P15 stated. I would attach it but the file is too large. Had a smile on my face for days after that.

Turn the engine to TDC on the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. Remove the distributor cap and note where the rotor is pointing. Move the #1 spark plug wire to that location and then re install all the other spark plug wires in the normal firing order around the cap. This will get the timing close to the correct spot. Close enough to start and then it can be fine tuned once you get it started. The engine will run fine like this. The engine doesn't care where the wires are located on the distributor - it only cares that it gets spark at the correct time. Or you could re index the oil pump. The oil pump may have been installed in a different rotational position than recommended.

All you young 60 year olds rebuilding engines. I'm 70 now. When I got the 47 P15 the PO told me that they had put a rebuilt engine in the car when they pulled it out of a field in the mid 70's and put it back on the road. And that it only had about 10 thousand miles on it. After all the work I've done on the car it looks like they told me the truth. However it leaked oil from everywhere oil could leak. Most of those leaks are fixed now. I shouldn't have to rebuild this one.

The tow strap is probably stolen. Hope you find them

The first time I washed clothes in the new top loader there was a ring on the top of the tub. The front loader had been doing such a bad job. Gross - had no idea - so I ran them through again. Granted the top loader uses more water and isn't as gentle on the clothes. But I would rather have clean clothes.

9 degrees F here in East Texas yesterday morning. There is a large ice ball at one of the hose bibs now from the drip. Back to the 70's next week and all will be good again. I'm sure I'll reminded about this cold when the utility bills get here.

Chisels are great for cutting multi strand cables. Lay the cable on the anvil and hit it a couple of times. You'll get a nice clean cut.

That's what my neighbor has - a front loading computer. My last washer was a front loading computer. The electronics kept sending error codes. Replaced that part and it would send another code. After spending 400 dollars (this time) trying to fix it I had to call it. I replaced it with a top loading industrial model. The kind they use in laundromats. Me too. I always try to fix stuff but I had already spent almost as much as a new machine and it still didn't work. The first time I worked on it - hours were spent trying to figure out how to get it apart. The next time I called the repair guy and he had it apart in 5 minutes.

A few days back my neighbor called and asked if I could help him work on his washing machine. I gave him the number for the appliance repair company I use. Told him that I would rather work on a grubby old greasy car. Working on washing machines is not something I like to do. Give me an old car any day.

Pictures always help me. In your case since you don't have the ignition switch installed you will go directly from the battery to the coil. To stop the engine you just need to remove the wire from the battery. Make sure the transmission is in neutral.

Don't have AAA but my car insurance includes towing. And there is a tool kit in the trunk with spare distributer parts.

Another thing to remember when working on bearings. Keep it clean - no grit allowed. While growing up I had a friend that always complained about wheel bearings going bad. I was at his house one day when he was working on the front brakes. When he took the drum off he laid the outer bearing on the ground - in the dirt. Mystery solved.

Getting under the dash is not a big problem. Just kind of fall into place. Getting back out is the hard part. I make sure my phone is where I can get to it in case I need to call someone to grab my feet and pull me out.

The clutch pedal on the P15 stopped returning to the top one day. I went under the car and this is what I found. The linkage shown below was about to fail. I was able to weld these up and re use them. There were other worn areas also. After the repairs were made the clutch works as it should.

Wear old clothes and cover your eyes. Once you have the majority of the old grease and dirt cleaned up then you'll be able to see where the leaks are coming from. Fix those as you have time. One of the other culprits on these old cars are the five hundred (I lost count) or so lubrication points that need regular maintenance. We would pump grease in one side until it came out the other side. Then just leave the extra grease - and over time it would turn into the monster you are dealing with now. After you have the majority of the old stuff cleaned you'll find that working under the car will be much more pleasant.

Also while you're at it check the vent on the rear axle. Make sure it's not plugged. Simple to do. Just unscrew it so you can check it on the bench. If the vent is plugged the rear end grease will be forced past the new seals when everything heats up and cover your new brakes with grease. I learned this lesson the hard way.

Can't believe you found the parts after mulching your keys

I gave the fixture to my friends son before I knew what the lights were. So the nice housings stay with his project. I get the 6 volt bulbs and I'll figure out another way to mount them. Going for a steam punk look. The 6 volt meter and indicator lights will work when it's complete.